Is this normal oil consumption?

StrokeThis347

You have the normal flat rate and then warranty flat rate which is less than normal. I can see why the tech is pissed. Lets say the actual flat rated is 32 hours, nissan reimbursement for warranty may only be 24 hours.

There should have been a red flag instantly when he said don;t come without calling. I would have drove there right then.

Either the timing is right or it is not. He probably had it one tooth off either on the primary or the secondary chains. I wouldn't be surprised if you had bent valves. Even if they get the timing right you might want to do a leak down to make sure none of your valves are leaking.

avantgti7

I received a call today at 3pm from my service advisor saying that the car was ready for pickup. I picked it up around 7pm from the dealership. The car seems to drive fine and I smell the engine being burned in similar to when you install an aftermarket exhaust on a car and drive it through the first couple hundred miles. I noticed that the dealer put an additional 164 miles on the car from the time of the original paperwork last Tuesday to what the odometer read as I drove away today. In 1,200 miles, I am going to take it in for an oil change. Will keep you posted guys.


P.S. - I popped up the open hood before I left the dealership and checked the oil level so I had a reference point. Everything looked good except that the plastic bracket which holds the hood rod in place was broken. My service advisor said that they would fix it when I came in again. I am not trying to be that annoying customer who complains about everything but it wasn't broken when I brought it in a week ago.

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StrokeThis347

I would change it in 100 miles, then 1000. Do this to get any dirt or crud that may have gotten into the engine when it was open and they were working on it.

cheshirecat

IMO, changing the oil at 100 miles is excessive. I would change it before 1500, though. You'll see a lot of metal bits in the oil when it drains.

Also, it's not uncommon for an engine to burn oil during break-in. Half a quart over the first couple of thousand miles is not unheard of. After 4k or so, it shouldn't consume any excessive amount of oil.

Best of luck.

SouthArk370Z

Probably, but this engine most likely wasn't rebuilt in a nice, clean assembly room by techs that do it every day. It was probably rebuilt in a corner of the shop by someone who rarely digs that deep into an engine.

500-750 miles, maybe even 1500, would probably be be good enough, but oil/filters are a lot cheaper (at least less inconvenient) than another engine rebuild. YMMV

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StrokeThis347

Trust me change it at 100. All of those metal shavings, any dirt that fell in, lint from wiping parts ext will clog up that oil filter in no time and you will be running in bypass let anymore crud right through the engine unfiltered. You are also getting any of the assembly lube that they used out of the engine. Your not hurting anything by changing the oil more but you can hurt the engine by not changing it enough. Just run conventional for the break in period. This is the most critical period in the engines life, give it clean blood!

I am a professional engine builder (what I do for a living). When we build engines the oil change routine is after about 30 min of running (warm up cycle), 100 miles, then 1000 miles, there after normal intervals.

You need to remember also this is not a sealed engine when they get it. The tech doesn't care about cleanliness as much as he does about making flat rate.

cheshirecat

Looks like I was wrong. Great post. ^

avantgti7

I drove the car into work today which is about 25 miles from house with 90% on the highway. I had parked the car and been at work for about two hours when my dad calls me to let me know that there is a puddle of green fluid (coolant) on the garage floor. This completely caught me off guard because I drove the car at least 50 miles from the time I picked it up on Wednesday night to when I drove into work this morning, and I didn't notice the temperature gauge spiking or any warning lights.

Anyhow, I run outside to my car in the parking lot to find another puddle of green fluid under the front right corner of the car. I open the hood and check the reservoir which is dry. I called the dealership and I am unable to get a hold my service advisor but instead I get his boss's boss (the director of the service department). I tell her what happened and we talk about how we can resolve the issue. I can either pour coolant into the car and attempt to drive it back nearly 40 miles to the dealership or they can pick it up on a flatbed truck with a rental on the truck for me to drive while they repair my car. She says that they can't just put a rental car on a truck and deliver it to me. However, she says that I can rent a car on my own and they'll reimburse me. In the meantime, she tells me that the two techs that worked on my car will be coming in a few hours to resolve the problem.

They show up around 3pm in one of their personal vehicles with a bunch of tools in the trunk and get to work on my car. They quickly diagnose the problem to be a coolant hose with a bad hose clamp. This coolant hose sits under the right intake filter box (as you face the car from the front). They don't have a hose clamp on them so they go to nearest car parts store and come back. Meanwhile, my car is sitting in the parking lot of my workplace with the hood open. Lol. A couple people who saw the car out of their office windows thought that either someone was attempting to hotwire my car or that I had called one of those mechanics that comes to your workplace and does service on your vehicle.

Finally, after speaking with the director of service at the dealership, we agreed that one of the techs should probably drive the car back to the dealership and keep it there overnight to make sure all of the issues have been resolved. One of the techs said that he would completely flush and refill the coolant at the dealership tomorrow and put a "Nissan clamp" on the hose.

Now, I am driving a Chrysler 200 as a rental car. 370z > Altima 2.5 > Chrysler 200. I miss the car even more now.

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cheshirecat

what kind of ghetto *** dealership did you take this car to, jesus

avantgti7

Hahaha. All of this has made for one heck of a story but the dealership and the technicans have taken full responsibility and owned up to everything as they should. I am picking up the car this evening after work. I'll probably take it in for its first oil change in 500 or 600 miles.

You had mentioned that your 350z and 370z both ate some oil during the initial break-in period. When did this stop for you?

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cheshirecat

For my engines, around 4-5k miles. The first couple thousand miles its the most apparent. After that, it slows down and should even out.

avantgti7

About 600 miles on the new motor now and everything seems okay. No oil loss on the dipstick yet and trying my best to keep the revs under 4,000 RPM. The first oil change is in two weeks...I'll report back then.

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onzedge

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cheshirecat

glad to hear it! keep an eye on it, hopefully you'll be good to go.

avantgti7

I was driving home from work yesterday and the clutch pedal kept sticking on me. When I would depress the clutch pedal and release, it would come back up halfway and then get stuck for a second and pop up. I drove straight to the dealer where a tech diagnosed the problem as a bad slave cylinder. They wanted to keep the car overnight so that the guy who put my new engine in could look at it also. They are still testing it out as we speak. I was told that my clutch was in great shape when the new engine was put in.

So what could be the problem?

1. air in the system? bad fluid? (34k on the clock)
2. bad slave cylinder?
3. bad master clutch cylinder?
4. bad clutch pressure plate?

I hope this is covered under warranty. Sigh. This car is starting to depress me.

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