Problems Starting ;-(
 

This is the THIRD crank,
The first sounded like the engine was running on 4 cylinders,
The second the engine just couldn't start, but was turning over

EDIT: The car smelled amazingly rich, like almost as bad as when I had TPs

This is the THIRD time this has happened as well... NO CEL




Cranks 1-3 the volume is low die to the camera being inside the GoPro casing



Mods on the car, Stillen G3 intakes, Stillen CBE, Stillen UD pulley


UPDATE: ... So the dealershit said nothing is wrong with my car... It needs a new battery... That's their answer... Anyone else smell bullshít???

weird... sounds normal in the video on that one.

6 seconds to start is normal???

I dont know bro mine dont sound like that on start up. Hows it drive? How is it on idel?

It drives like a god damn champion and idles fine once it runs... I'm uploading another video from my GoPro that I luckily had on

Bad gas. Dirty MAF(s). Sticking TB (but that would probably throw a code). Intake manifold leak.

Eww... I wouldn't like it if my car started like that. How often does that happen?

Mine fires up quick, but there times it'll rev up and die or idle super rough and low for a few seconds. Then it snaps out of it and idles like normal. I wonder if there's extra fuel in the cylinder causing that.

im exhausted and realized that made no sense. I meant once it actually fired it sounded normal.

I just put a Top Tier approved gas in it... Cleaned the MAFs like 3 days ago... And I checked all the intake manifold bolts...

Oh, yeah, once if fired up it was great!

I'm thinking Crank positioning sensor?


LAST two times it happened I was close to empty, BUT the day before, (like I was driving on 1-2 dots... Then filled up 16 gallons that day and problems the next day)

Well, if you mechanic like I do, I'd check the temp sensor in the right (bank 1) MAF (the ECM only looks at the right side). The car may think it's warmer than it is and not "choking" properly. Just a SWAG.

I mean I can do it right now if that makes a difference... I do know my engine... Well the hood was as about 103 degrees before I started it (I was playing with my new Infrared thermometer)

Updated with the GoPro video of all 3 start ups

"Scientific Wild Assed Guess"
Too bad it's not an old car, then all you'd have to do is pump the gas pedal a time or two. ;)

Good night, Irene. It's bedtime for Bonzo.

ugh... idk sounds like its struggling to breath im assuming your filters are clean... lol something may be blocking it? something has to be loose... its weird that it drives fine though.

The filters are 8k old and I checked them like 2-3 weeks ago, lol

I didn't drive through any friggin dust clouds in the last day or so, LOL


And I also checked the hell out of the seals and gaskets and crap on the intakes... Such a mind fúck as to what's going on...

sorry to hear man...

I'm startin to get the idea that nissan doens't make a reliable car anymore :icon14:

AHAHAHAHAHA!!! I had to pull over I was laughing so hard

I am partial to Toyotas and I think Nissan doesn't have reliability to be honest. I didn't exactly buy it to be reliable, just more reliable than a Nazi equivalent.

Hell, my dad's car ON the day of purchase made odds sqeeks and rattles


But is times like this that I appreciate an extended warranty

okay so I took another listen, 2nd and third crank, sound like fuel issues. 2nd crank its flooded third crank sounds like its taking a while for it to get fuel to start up. did you run the tank to empty at all? maybe picked up sediments in the fuel tank clogging a few injectors.

Going from flooded to not enough gas that quickly?!?!?!
In old carb'd cars I can understand, but fuel injection, really???


LAST two times it happened I was close to empty, BUT the day before, (like I was driving on 1-2 dots... Then filled up 16 gallons that day and problems the next day)

lol idk im just saying what im hearing honestly in the first one sounds like car is only running on 4 cylinders so I'm just guessing you may have picked up sediment, maybe the cold start up map our cars have is messed up? it definitely sounds like a fuel issue though, still doesn't explain why there's no problem while you drive it. has it done this before? or just recently since you ran low on gas...

Lol, you're killing me! (It says in the first post)
This is the 3rd time, same EXACT scenario... To the TEE...


(And this time I wasn't low on gas, just the 2 previous times)

its late!!! lol reading comprehension is out the window

:bowrofl:

Yea I always drove hondas first nissan I bought and the engine fails at 8k miles lol.

Honestly, my issue isn't your 8k failure... (Although I hope you get a crate motor) Shít happens... My problem is... ALL the problems...

#1 Steering lock
#2 CSC failure
And I BET #3 will soon be the 7AT flex plates breaking (I know mine has been broken for a good while)

And there are just too many other engines and long blocks being replaced... I KNOW that on a forum you receive more of the complaints, but JEEZUS, really? Can NO ONE figure out how to make this damn thing work? LOL

I'm betting crank position sensor

pretty cheap part and easy swap to see if it addresses the issue

So, I am 100% clueless on the Crank Positioning sensor... Should I take my Stillen Crank Pulley off if I want to go to the dealer to have them warranty it out?

Sounds like a ford :(

Check for Vacuum leaks as it controls your fuel pressure. Is the car tuned at all? Any codes? (even if the light is not on there can be codes stored in the ECU).

No señor, no tune otherwise my tuner would have an earful.
And I'll plug my OBD2 sensor in it to see if I can get anything

The flexplate/flywheel has the trigger wheel for the crank sensor. You said your flex plate is broken. I would start there. I've seen problems with no starts and hard starts with that.

If the ECU doesn't know where the engine position is, it may be firing the cylinders on the wrong stroke, causing your misfires.

Sweeeeeeeeet...
I'm just betting my flex plate is broken because I beat the bitch and it's been giving me REALLY hard shifts.



I'm just wondering if I need to revert so much to stock that I need to take the underdrive pulley off too, or just go stock intake boxes

So, no CEL or codes of any way...

What should I be looking for on my OBD2 scanner (it has live view) when I start up the car

Can you see fuel pressure? If so take a look at that and see if it fluctuates, you could also look at your short term trims to see what the engine is doing as far as fueling goes.

Same thing happened to mine. I left it overnight and it started normally the next day. I was gonna get it towed to the dealer the next day.

Starting the car with delay can be the throttle body or a camshaft sensor. I don't know im just reading above.

On my old 350z i had problems with my started, throttle body and camshaft sensor. I replaced them and that was the solution. Now and of course it had a key but in the 370z you push a button. Hope you resolve all with the smurf.

I think the intake don't avoid warranty unless im wrong?

Maybe your just not touching it in the right spot :) lol


I wish I had more for you the fact that there is no codes leads me to agree with the crank angle sensor. If thats out just a bit your going to throw everything out of wack and not necessarily throw a code.

Fair enough, question still remains if I should uninstall my crank pulley.......?