I just used a strong magnet extenter to remove after its loose and then again to get the threads started. ;)

Hey guys, on the strut tower brace - what did you use to break free the bolts with the white thread locker? Do I need a breaker bar or impact socket for this? They're on tight. I tried a regular ratchet and a torque wrench with a little more leverage...no dice.

Thanks.

breaker bar or impact gun but a breaker bar should be enough. you need a deep socket for the nuts.

No recommendation for antisieze on the threads??

I always do a touch on the plug threads on vehicles with aluminum heads.

Use the nickel anti-seize on the threads. But try not to get any on the tip. LOL

0 SH1ZuH! L00K @ diz guys....Nstalled from the KneeZ0n FAC...an off center ELEC-Tr0de :eek:...,y u shuld install ur 0wn NGKs ASAP!
This was Cyl 4 plug in my VQ37VHR...POS! Go+ c0pper plugs in N0W!
:cool: (Yes, I kno the jp3g is shi++y!)

I have no clue what you just said

L0L! Basically I said if u take ur Z34 seriously as a "performance" car...U will have pulled n changed the spark plugs ALREADY! ;)

Went to OEM gt-r plugs with the turbo install :tup:

Denso or NGK plugs for stock setup?
Anyone recommend anything better?

Just changed spark plugs myself and cleaned the throttle intakes while I had em off..
Welcome back third gear tcs light:cool:

What does anti seize do? Only apply it to the spark plugs? Will it be ok not using anti seize? Is it difficult getting the intake manifold back on? I'm tryin to learn how to things myself instead of taking to shop. I am afraid of not getting the intake manifold and gasket lined up properly with no problems... is it difficult to get back into place the right way? Will all the bolts go back in easily and how tight should I bolt the intake manifold back down? Also what is the throttle body exactly? I don't see any pictures and am not sure


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I hear mixed things about anti-seize on spark plugs. Something I read a while ago stated that the torque spec for the spark plugs is for them dry (no anti-seize or oil on the threads)

And to answer your question, anti-seize is something that is applied to threads to prevent rust or corrosion so they're easier to remove later down the line if you have to.

It keeps the metal parts from sticking together. Also helps control corrosion.
As a rule-of-thumb, anti-seize is applied to the male part. Apply a very small amount to the threads of the plugs. Avoid applying anti-seize on the first 2-3 threads of the plug to prevent contaminating the plug tip.
While not 100% necessary, using anti-seize is a good idea when using dissimilar metal and/or the parts get very hot. In the case of spark plugs, both conditions exist.