SOS/HELP : Engine died whenever put in D
 

Bros,

Need urgent help..my 7at z34 started having problem yesterday while I'm on a long journey. Everytime I come to complete stop in gear 1 or starting to move, P to D, the car will stall, jerk n die. No codes or light being thrown on the dash..theres also loud grinding noise driving from 1k to 1.9k rpm...the rest of the transmission behave normaly, means I can drive in both D and M all the way to gear 7 once I get it to move..I manage to get the car to jump by applying slight trottle before shifting from N to D or moving to N before coming to complete stop. Car also idle perfect in P or N. To me its either

1. Torque conveter not stalling
2. Idle to low

Did any of you 7at owner ever experienced this issue..car is stock but I do push the car hard

To me..its either

It sounds like a problem with your transmission area. I know a lot of people have been having problems with the the flex plate and them cracking causing the same issues u have been seeing. Just some info for u

It could be a torque converter solenoid or vaccum leak.

My guess is that the torque converter is locked. I had the same thing happen on a Dodge Spirit.

Thanks guys...I'll have the gearbox check accordingly tomorrow. .vacuum..then solenoid then flex plate..hope I don't have to change the whole gearbox

I think ur gearbox is fine I believe it's the torque converter, flex plate area get them checked and let us know.

PLZ.. keep us posted on this...

I have a 2011 7AT SP at 33K miles and it has almost the exact same problem as you described, except the grinding noise I had isn't loud, but soft and barely noticeable, and happens at around 4K RPM. I always assumed it was an exhaust bolt that wasn't tightened.

I agree that it feels like the torque converter is not unlocking and isn't slipping. When you put it in gear (R or D), it would take about a half second for the engine to start to stall, and you would have to shift to P or D or the engine would die. Other than that, the engine idles and revs normally.

My car has been at the dealership a week and a half. First they said they changed out the torque converter and the transmission valve body. That fixed it little, but it would still stall. They now think there is something wrong with the transmission itself. I'm now getting a new transmission, fortunately my car is still under warranty.

Gents, here's an update..I went and see a gearbox specialist in my area, I struggle to drive in D getting to his place, 99% of the time I drive in M. Spoke to the owner and he told me that this is common problem when torque conv gets extremely hot usually under long spirited driving then come to a complete stop suddenly. Thinking of it, I was running the car quite hard that day pushing 5-7k rpm on 4-5 gear for about 45 mins on highway and then came to complete stop due to traffic..it is at that point the car start jerking. I don't have AT cooler and it's 34deg C all year long in Malaysia so that might have caused it as well.

He told me he don't haves the part if he were to open the gearbox for inspection but he manage to unlock the torque converter by applying higher rev in 1st D mode while applying hard brake, like how we normally do if you want to launch auto car. That did the trick, solve both grinding sound and everything back to normal. Car has been running fine for whole week so it's not the solenoid.

Cheers.

:eek: holy smokes!

Something must of welded itself together inside?

Hehe.. Yup, told ya I push my car hard.. I think the friction plate got welded.. I was enjoying my ride with 150-250kmh sprint playing with an audi s4.

Of course we win on top end

You don't go to jail for speeding like that in Malaysia? LOL I mean really running the car at that speed for 45 minutes? wtf!

Any updat? on your 370z tork converter getting stuck?

Most of the people in this thread have moved on. They're no longer on the forum. So, I don't think you'll find your answer.