Clutch Recommendations.

houkouonchi

I assume they don't have to drop the tranny to re-blead the clutch right (I hope not). It was ok for the first few uses afte ri picked up the car and appears to be getting worse and worse.

It did stick all the way to the floor once or twice (had to use my foot to pull it up. The other times it is sticking right after disengaging when pulling my foot off the clutch. I guess thank god its after the clutch is disengaged since its not effecting my shifting (all that much).

houkouonchi

And whups.. Youtube video link fail missed the l in front here it is:



You can hear the 'thud' when letting off the clutch where its sticking.

SPOHN

You dont have to drop the tranny to bleed. The bleeder screw is just outside the tranny. I'll be doing mine this weekend, clutch and all. Judging by your vid I'm definitely going to like the pedal feel. Can't wait.

I'm a firm believer in gravity bleeding brakes and clutch. This method has always gave me better feel than any other way and eliminates any way of air getting in as long as the reservoir is always full.

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DIGItonium

Definitely gravity bleed. With pedal sticking you definitely have air trapped in the master cylinder, which might require bench bleeding (removal of the master).

My tech avoided it by unhinging the clutch pedal so the plunger can travel further to squeeze all the air out.

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houkouonchi

Well it looks like I am gonna be spending my day at the dealer tomorrow. I just drove to in-n-out for lunch and now the clutch is sticking to the floor after every use. Also the engagement point chainged and its literally activating only when its all the way to the floor and disengaging 1/2 inch from the floor (and sticking soon after that). Hopefully it doesnt get into an un-drivable state in the meantime.

DIGItonium

Air in the system will do that. Once done properly it will remain consistent, and it will be so much fun to drive afterwards. Volunteer to help by pumping the pedal while tech is working on the hard line and bleeder.

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houkouonchi

Well the dealer is convinced its the CSC like it was bad or something. Their foremon does not think that its air in the system because they have like a pump or something that bleeds it so they dont have to worry about air in the system. If that is the case this is gonna be a huge pain in the ***. This sucks.

houkouonchi

Talked to Joe. He said you can't pump bleed it like that and the dealer did not follow the instructions with the CSC (I gave them everything). sigh... Joe offered to talk to the dealer mechanic to say what was needed but the dealer guy really did not want to talk to him saying it was unneeded(wtf?).. Oh well.

houkouonchi

So it looks like I need a new master concentric cyclinder =(. Joe at zspeed performance also mentioned that might be the case cause my Z has 53k miles on it. Guess I don't get my car until Tuesday =(. Haven't really gotten to drive it at all the last 2 weeks so really missing it.

DIGItonium

Sorry to hear that, but if the CSC is bad then you probably lose fluid. If fluid levels didn't change, it's probably air bubble stuck in the master cylinder.

My tech also tried to pump bleed, but it made things worse (no pressure). After almost an hour, it was air trapped in the master so the plunger didn't have any seal without fluid. This is where he disconnected the clutch pedal from the plunger, filled up the reservoir, and manually pushed the plunger to squeeze all the air out. Eventually he started feeling pressure and reconnected everything. Then it was about 25-30 manual pumps several times before getting pressure again.

[EDIT] Oh you didn't get a new master cylinder? I replaced mine at the same time with the CSC because these things are weak! After replacing the clutch disc, I went ahead and replaced the CSC and master cylinder again.

Also make sure he bench bleed the master cylinder to prime it and does not make any attempt to pump bleed it.

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Joe@ZSpeed

There are new instructions included with every slave, He needs a new master cylinder or it needs bled correctly.

You have to pump the pedal with the bleeder open to shove the air down the bottom, After this let it gravity bleed and your done. Very simple really.

If they try to use their "Pump' It will never get the air out, Pump bleeding also will not get the air out, You must pump the pedal with the bleeder open, This gets the air out of the top area of the system and down to the slave, Once the air is in the slave it will gravity bleed the rest out.

It literally takes 5 minutes to do if you follow these instructions. If it doesn't work correctly after this the master cylinder is weak and needs replaced

Instruction included with slave...

Inspect slave before installation to check for any possible damage in shipping!
A new Clutch master cylinder is recommended with this kit
Remove Old Slave and Line Assy all the way to frame rail connection.
Flush old fluid from master cylinder and hard lines, Clean reservoir of any debris.
Install Z-Speed heavy duty slave cylinder to transmission
Route line through rubber boot of bell housing, Reinstall transmission
Attach SS line to frame rail connection
Check install height!
see website product page at ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infiniti Specialist 240SX 300ZX 350Z G35 G37 370Z, after trans is pushed up flush with engine block. After trans install is complete loosen slave cylinder bleed screw in short SS line.
Fill Reservoir with fresh Dot 3 or Dot 4 or dot 5.1 (DOT 3-4 compatible) brake fluid. With bleeder open at slave line, Pump pedal slowly, pausing at the top for a second or 2, 10-15 times making sure pedal is pulled completely up on each stroke by hand to distribute fluid through system making sure to keep reservoir full.
Allow system to Gravity bleed for approx 5 minutes keeping reservoir full
Close bleeder valve.
Pump pedal 15-20 times, while holding pedal on floor open bleeder one time. Close bleeder and pump pedal until you get a full returning pedal, It is normal for the pedal to stick the first few times.
If clutch pedal will not return fully master cylinder may be weak and in need of replacement.
Any questions or problems feel free to contact us at 937-665-0450 or 937-689-0905 Sales@ZspeedPerformance.com

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Phone 937-506-7224
E-Mail Sales@Zspeed.com
www.ZSPEED.com

Joe@ZSpeed

"Clutch Master Cylinder" is the correct term, not " master concentric cylinder"

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http://photos.zspeedperformance.com/...ardsize=468x60
Phone 937-506-7224
E-Mail Sales@Zspeed.com
www.ZSPEED.com

SPOHN

I did mine yesterday. It's simple and super easy. Did it by myself except the last step.

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houkouonchi

So... 7 months and it appears my master died already? I am starting to have issues with the clutch starting to stick again after 7 months of no issues after my original OEM master got replaced which lasted around 55,000 miles. Also the clutch engagement point is also changing as its being driven. Its basically doing exactly what it was before. Are there any good after market replacements for the master?

My original one lasted 2 full years and 55k miles until I got the new clutch/flywheel/csc and then the master just about immediately died after that. This new one has lasted uner 10k miles =(

luigi90210

get a JWT clutch and lightweight flywheel

just installed them on my car and it is amazing

just note there is a lot of noise, not sure if it will go away over time but anything under 2k causes tons of rattles