NST Pulley Install - Crankshaft bolt stuck?
 

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on installing the crankshaft pulleys. Me and a friend decided to tackle them one afternoon, and we came to a point where no matter how much strength we put on the breaker bar, we could not break the bolt loose.

We decided to lock up the engine by putting a tire iron in between the u-joint of the driveshaft, and having the iron rest against the bulkhead of the frame. Doing this, we found no movement with the pulley or any pulley for that matter, but with even with him giving it all he has (he's a big guy), we couldn't get it loose.

My only other idea was to remove the radiator, fans, bumper, and everything else that is in the way, to have straight on access to the bolt, so I could try an impact gun. I'm afraid I'll shear the head or something, and then I'll really be screwed.

Anyone have any thoughts, or how their mechanic did it?

that bolt can be extremely hard to remove , dont worry you wont break the bolt unless you absolutely have to use an 1''inch breaker bar if nothing else worked then it might snap.

I had to use PB blaster and a 3/4 breaker bar and 3/4 impact (800ft)
as I broke 2 1/2 breakerbar
lucky me they had a lifetime warranty ! :)

Me and my friend installed a crank pully on his TL and right in the instructions it told us to pull the fuel pump fuse so the car would not start and lower the car to the gound with the breaker bar still attached to the bolt until the bar hit the ground then crank the motor, you just need to make sure you have the bar pointing the proper way or it will swing the wrong way and possibly damage something. When me and my friend read this we both looked at each other like this cant end well, but one crank of the motor and the bolt came lose.


P.S this was a FWD car and the pully was much closer to the ground.

Hah, good to know I'm not the only one that was worried. That gives me more peace of mind. I might go ahead and proceed to remove the bumper and radiator. My friend owns a 800ft-lb impact gun probably like yours, that's the strongest one I know that exists. ^^

I heard of someone else trying that, but I'm afraid to try that! That might be a last resort, heh. I'm gonna try the impact wrench first.

You can use a BIG rubber mallet to break it loose instead of just muscle.

Position the ratchet towards the bottom and smack it towards the driver side ensuring at the same time the crank doesn't move.

The crank bolts on their pretty tight so it'll take some aggressive hitting to break it loose.

Have fun :icon17:

I've seen a shop use a 4' breaker bar to remove. It looked easy that way. Lol.

Some times you can position the breaker bar as such so you can hit the starter then the breaker bar hits the frame rail,but with a push button start you will have to watch it.:icon14:

FWIW, one can bypass the starting system by unplugging the "S" connector from the backside of the starter and applying 12V to the wire going to the starter solenoid when you want the starter to spin. See the STR section of the FSM - STR-11 shows the wiring diagram and the "S" connector physical location is shown on STR-17 thru STR-20.

Edit: Remove fuel pump fuse first and take any other appropriate safety precautions
Edit 2: FSM references are for 2009 edition

If he's a big guy he's either not strong enough or your breaker isn't big enough. You have to put your feet on the tire and use ur leg strength and arm strength together. If your breaker bar won't work then get a bigger one.

I know this but thanks for pointing it out.:hello:

You can use a torch on the bolt head only.. Like everyone else said get a longer breaker bar. It will break free. Just don't over heat the bolt.

Done it a hundred times. I have a 1.5 inch X 4 ft piece of tubing sitting in the corner for stuff just like this..:tiphat: