Damn clutch, I'm out of ideas...

Lunar-Eclipse

I wouldn't bother with the master until it actually begins to fail. It's an easy replacement from the engine bay so there's no need to spend the money now. Unless they're doing it all under warranty. Then you might as well.

afbunn

Thanks for the advice, it's good to know that it will be an easy fix should it begin to fail and need to be replaced. I'll hold off on the master for now since my warranty just expired this year in April. I should've thought more about that before I jumped on the deal for the car. Oh well, can't do anything about it so no use whining about it. The car is in superb condition so outside of knowing how it was driven by the previous owner (It's an '09 with 26k on the clock when I bought it, so that's a good sign) it seems like a solid car that was very well taken care of. Extremely clean. One last question:

Should I have my mechanic take a look at the clutch disc and all that stuff to look for any excessive wear and tear so that I can at least know it's worn and have a forewarning that something might need replaced soon? Or will that result in an extra labor charge?

Lunar-Eclipse

I don't see why not. They have to drop the entire transmission to get to the slave in the bell housing. After that, to get to the clutch you just have to undo the bolts on the pressure plate. Shouldn't be more than an extra 30 minutes of labor.

afbunn

Makes sense. I'll tell him to take a look while it's out. Thanks

Lunar-Eclipse

After Digi brought up my engagement point I've made an interesting observation of my clutch pedal assembly. If I apply all the pressure to the left edge of the pedal instead of the center of the pedal it shifts more smoothly. Looking at the pedal it looks a bit higher than the brake/accelerator but it doesn't look bent. The clevis pin is free floating but I didn't take it apart to see if it was actually bent (it started raining).

Is it possible the pedal or pedal assembly is slightly bent and out of spec? To the point where it is not pressing the master cylinder plunger all the way?

It is my understanding that the clutch pedal travel is limited and cannot actually push to the bottom of the master cylinder. If so a bent/out of spec assembly + a limited travel clutch may not be fully cycling the master cylinder.

I know I ran across a thread awhile back about a clutch bleeding problem someone had and a performance shop actually took apart the master and hard lines to find the problem. That's where I read the the pedal doesn't full cycle the master.

NissanGuy23

Sometimes i have an issue where like you said, it won't go into 1st or reverse. The shifter won't go in its like its blocked. What i do if it won't go into 1st, is i shift into reverse and roll a few inches, then try 1st again and it works. Same with reverse if it won't let you shift go into reverse, roll forward a bit and then try reverse again. This has always worked for me, but my car rarely does this and I'm not sure if its even the same issue