Review: RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System

diddy535 · 03-26-2013, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383

Installed mine today very easy but easier if you remove the plastic knee bolster and bolt on metal plate under it for easier access.

Definitely allot better than before and I'm on a stock clutch,shifting is easier smoother,plus taking off from a stop is smoother.

It reminds me of a cable operated clutch.

Love it thanks Ryan

Sweet! How's the shift from 1st to 2nd?

Baer383 · 03-26-2013, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diddy535

Sweet! How's the shift from 1st to 2nd?

Smooth and fast

jooonnn · 03-18-2014, 06:20 PM

For a lack of better words, does this pedal make the clutch feel more "honda" or "s2000" like? (eg: lower engagement, smoother push)

Ryan @ RJM · 03-18-2014, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn

For a lack of better words, does this pedal make the clutch feel more "honda" or "s2000" like? (eg: lower engagement, smoother push)

Jooonnn replied to your email as well

Yes lower engagment and yes smoother clutch action. The new pedal will both soften the pedal, widen out the engagement zone for better modulation and will let you freely lower the friction point right down to the floor if you wish. The effect is very pronounced and the adjustability lets you dial it in to suit your driving style. All in all it’ll make the clutch in your Nismo feel much less harsh and be much easier to modulate smoothly.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

onzedge · 03-18-2014, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM

Jooonnn replied to your email as well

Yes lower engagment and yes smoother clutch action. The new pedal will both soften the pedal, widen out the engagement zone for better modulation and will let you freely lower the friction point right down to the floor if you wish. The effect is very pronounced and the adjustability lets you dial it in to suit your driving style. All in all it’ll make the clutch in your Nismo feel much less harsh and be much easier to modulate smoothly.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

I am looking forward to installing mine. I think the week after next...

jwick · 03-18-2014, 10:05 PM

Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

N0SL3N · 03-18-2014, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

No Problems here, I think it is more important that you get the switches in the exact right place for the bumpers to hit so that you don't break them during spirited shifting

Ryan @ RJM · 03-18-2014, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

Not sure what strange electrical issue you've had with you're G but there is no reprogramming or syncing of the switches involved in the the pedal install in any way. These switches are simply momentary contact buttons that are only active while being pushed in. The upper cruise cancel switch signals the cruise to turn off as soon as the button isn't being pressed and the lower safety switch only allows the starter to engage while the button is being pressed down. The only adjustments neccessary are setting the switch depths like NOS3LN mentioned so that the switches just get pressed by the rubber pads with pedal up and pedal down by threading the lock nuts up/down to adjust.

No dealership computer programming should ever be required.

jwick · 03-19-2014, 12:40 AM

No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced.

Ryan @ RJM · 03-19-2014, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced.

jwick, you should be all good then. Like I said the switches simply make contact at either end of the pedal travel with neither having any effect for the vast majority of the pedal stroke so I'm not sure what he truly means when he said "synced" them other than making sure the ECU was registering their expected inputs with pedal full up and pedal full down. I know the ECU will freak out and throw a bunch of dash warning lights if you try to engage cruise control with the pedal partly down or a faulty cruise switch causing no signal to be sent confusing the computer. So he was likely confirming thru Consult the switches were indeed sending correct info to the computer. Had the saftey switch been bad the car simply would not start but wouldn't throw any codes or warnings since a bad safety switch wouldn't complete the circuit telling the ECU it's safe to start, just as if someone forgets to press the clutch fully in before hitting the start button on the dash.

Hope that helps

jooonnn · 04-01-2014, 08:33 PM

Ordered! Excited to install it asap!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

onzedge · 04-01-2014, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM

jwick, you should be all good then. Like I said the switches simply make contact at either end of the pedal travel with neither having any effect for the vast majority of the pedal stroke so I'm not sure what he truly means when he said "synced" them other than making sure the ECU was registering their expected inputs with pedal full up and pedal full down. I know the ECU will freak out and throw a bunch of dash warning lights if you try to engage cruise control with the pedal partly down or a faulty cruise switch causing no signal to be sent confusing the computer. So he was likely confirming thru Consult the switches were indeed sending correct info to the computer. Had the saftey switch been bad the car simply would not start but wouldn't throw any codes or warnings since a bad safety switch wouldn't complete the circuit telling the ECU it's safe to start, just as if someone forgets to press the clutch fully in before hitting the start button on the dash.

Hope that helps

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn

Ordered! Excited to install it asap!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fountainhead · 04-01-2014, 10:12 PM

My Z won't start simply by pushing IN the pedal down switch, you must first move the pedal OFF the Pedal up switch THEN press IN the Pedal down switch before cranking will occur. I don't see how they could be synchronized if it's a foot doing the pushing!
The reason I know is I wanted to put in a pedal down bypass switch and was doing some experimenting.

Ryan @ RJM · 04-01-2014, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fountainhead

My Z won't start simply by pushing IN the pedal down switch, you must first move the pedal OFF the Pedal up switch THEN press IN the Pedal down switch before cranking will occur. I don't see how they could be synchronized if it's a foot doing the pushing!
The reason I know is I wanted to put in a pedal down bypass switch and was doing some experimenting.

Must be a deliberate safety feature Nissan wrote into the ECU's code for the push button startup as it would be very easy to bypass the clutch safety otherwise by holding the switch down or simply unplugging it and putting a jumper wire across the contacts. The ECU watches the inputs of both switch circuits and won't do a start sequence unless both conditions are met at the same time (Cruise OFF, Start ON)

kjz · 04-08-2014, 05:01 PM

I just bought this last weekend and it will be delivered this weekend.
ill share review after installation.. i can't wait !!! lol

03-18-2014, 06:20 PM	#48 (permalink)
jooonnn Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: South Carolina Posts: 270 Drives: 2013 Nismo Rep Power: 13	For a lack of better words, does this pedal make the clutch feel more "honda" or "s2000" like? (eg: lower engagement, smoother push) __________________ Try things once to see how it feels. Try things a second time to make sure you didn't like it

03-18-2014, 10:05 PM	#51 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good. I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

03-19-2014, 12:40 AM	#54 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

04-01-2014, 08:33 PM	#56 (permalink)
jooonnn Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: South Carolina Posts: 270 Drives: 2013 Nismo Rep Power: 13	Ordered! Excited to install it asap! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Try things once to see how it feels. Try things a second time to make sure you didn't like it

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04-01-2014, 10:12 PM	#58 (permalink)
Fountainhead Track Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: FL Posts: 834 Drives: 2019 Civic Type R Rep Power: 14	My Z won't start simply by pushing IN the pedal down switch, you must first move the pedal OFF the Pedal up switch THEN press IN the Pedal down switch before cranking will occur. I don't see how they could be synchronized if it's a foot doing the pushing! The reason I know is I wanted to put in a pedal down bypass switch and was doing some experimenting.

04-08-2014, 05:01 PM	#60 (permalink)
kjz Base Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Socal Posts: 70 Drives: 2011 370z Sport Rep Power: 11	I just bought this last weekend and it will be delivered this weekend. ill share review after installation.. i can't wait !!! lol