"Bogging" in first gear

MightyBobo

So the bog issue must be a heat-soak issue of some sort, Im guessing. I DEFINITELY got it (it even threw a code at me) when I was at the track last time. That track session was a lot of high-revving with little airflow (braking maneuvers) into the engine bay. I cleared the code and I was right as rain, but the throttle was definitely a bit laggy.

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juld0zer

do you by any chance remember what the code was?

tonythetiger

my z is starting to have this bogging issue when i first turn on the car and drive through 1st gear, after the car warms up it disappears, started at 80,000 miles. any update as to why this is happening?

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juld0zer

that's bizarre... it usually happens the other way around - absent when cool
but bogs when hot

tjlazer

So has there been any new insight on what is causing this issue? I have it happening once my engine oil temp hits around 180+

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

juld0zer

i think a lot of people are correlating the bogging to oil temperature incorrectly. For those without any form of OBD2 monitoring devices, you can't see the coolant temp in numeric form or intake air temp, more importantly.

So people get the bog, then they glance around the gauges. The only temperature gauge that is close to being a proper gauge is the oil temp gauge. 180*f is hardly hot in terms of oil temperature. Until you monitor your intake air temperature, you guys are all being misled.

And using the onboard ambient display as a reference to compare IAT against isnt wholly accurate either. This is due to the slow response of the sensor plus the computer's slow refresh frequency. But at least it's a starting point.

Anyway, all i have to say is to watch those intake air temperatures. You'll be surprised!

DOOMMONKEY777

Clean ur throttle bodies from gunk build up due to engines unburned exhaust gases that circulate back through the intake in order to burn them so that nissan can pass emissions. Theres a DIY on this site how to do it, also you can adjust your fuel settings slightly lower on idle if you have up rev tuner or ecuteck.

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Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane

bushman66

UPDATE: I gave up and sold the car. Last Nissan I will ever buy...having owned and driven a plethora of modern fuel injected cars with drive by wire, it's simply unacceptable to have to deal with this in a modern fuel injected car. It wasn't even acceptable 30 years ago when I was messing with Holley carbs, and their propensity to blow power valves, but at least back then I could tune it and repair the PV when it blew.

I took the Nissan to the dealer several times and WAS ABLE TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM WITH THE TECH IN THE CAR, and their response varied between abject cluelessness and "oh that's totally normal".

Sorry...it was a fun (and beautiful) car but not dealing with this issue every summer. Too many other cars out there that run properly. Thanks to all who offered inputs to try to solve this issue.

Trutactix

Sooo I had this problem after installing my cbe and figured it was back pressure and after installing my g3 intake it's right back up and I get to spin for a good 30 seconds lol

Trutactix

Or lack thereof

DOOMMONKEY777

Yep, enjoy w/e else u get.

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Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane

Zed-Hed

Is anyone driving a 2015. Just curious if the condition is present in those cars.