"Bogging" in first gear

binary0x01

As soon as I get the car I'm getting that 34 row oil cooler and bolting it on with my buddy... nuff said heh. It is mind boggling how Nissan would not raise the car price by 600 bux and put a better oil cooler setup in place. At the very least, add it as a 'hot climat' recommended accessory item or what not.

tjlazer

curious to see if this issue is indeed the engine getting really hot at 220ish or more...

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

IDZRVIT

You realize that SM oil is formulated to provide lubrication up to a constant 300*F. Why do you think the car goes into limp mode at 280*F? Getting too close to 300*F so they program the ecu to force a cool down period to save your engine from potential damage. Oil worries at temps of 260*F are long gone with newer oil specs. 220*F? That's relatively cool for cars being built now.

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"America.... still builds rockets!"
Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp
'13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP

henry0844

apparently nissan engineers disagree with u it's been a known fact that the ecu pulls timing on our car at anything over 220. sucks but it is what it is. once tuners can fully understand our ecu's and program this stuff the 370 will be a beast. the torque management needs to go as well, war too intrusive IMHO.

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2010 PW 370 base+sport 6mt
Stillen g3's/ Berk CBE / Stillen 19 row/ uprev: 308whp 255wtq dyno jet @ specialty z.

IDZRVIT

I was talking limp mode when overheating becomes severe. Any ecu in any vehicle will pull timing to prevent 'ping' which is more prone to happen as the engine gets hotter. So, the engineers have that figured out and developed the maps in the ecu. The tuners are limited to how much advance can be introduced in the timing maps of the ecu afaik. I've played with these maps when I had my Harley. They are all similar in their function. You can increase the timing but up to a limit and then it won't let you go any higher. That limit was as high as ~48* or more advance depending on load/rpm for my Harley. You wouldn't want to go any higher than that anyway to be safe. You could also adjust your AFR directly or 'fool' the ecu to increase the AFR by increasing the values in the volumetric efficiency map - increase fuel. Run a little richer and add a little advance. That said, tuners do have limitations but there is a fair bit of leeway. All cars pull timing or vice versa, add timing, under the prevailing operating condition. Tuners just put timing closer to the edge which is less safe for your engine. So, you better have a darn good tuner because they are not all the same and it can fuk your engine.


Edit: Just to add, your timing is retarded when the anti-knock sensor (a common method) detects a knock or ping. Lower octane gas can bring on the onset of pinging and the resultant retarding of the timing which equals to a loss of performance. Using higher octane gas is the reverse. Unless you've had an ecu tune, Nissan most likely tuned our ecu's for the most commonly available gas, 91 octane.

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"America.... still builds rockets!"
Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp
'13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP

bushman66

UPDATE: Installed the Z1 Motorsports 34 row cooler this morning. Also deleted the worthless POS factory "cooler" (seriously Nissan?) by removing it and looping the 2 hard coolant lines together with a piece of hose. Reused the factory Oil filter bung, it worked with the Z1 Thermostatic plate just fine. (This is not clear in the Z1 instructions, and they were a little confused as well when I called them...they told me I needed the oil filter bung from a 2009-2011).

Drove around this afternoon and evening (ambient air temps between 98-114). Car runs about 195-205 now, a ~35 degree drop from previous normal city driving (previously 225-235 normal oil temps).

I noticed the "Bog" is greatly diminished (but still present) which again points to Nissan's shitty ECU programming. Next step will be an UpRev tune (with cooling fan tune). Still not quite there yet, but the car is at least MUCH more driveable.

I'd seriously like to know where Nissan did their hot weather testing...Canada? There is NO chance they did hot weather testing here in AZ during the summer...or they have the WORST engineers on the planet...sheesh.

cheshirecat

IMO, they just went overboard trying to keep drivetrain damage to a minimum due to high oil temps.

IDZRVIT

If they didn't add a means to protect the engine, how many yahoos who abuse their engines would be into the dealer looking for a warranty replacement? Let your tuner put your engine closer to the edge. Do you think they will offer you a warranty if you blow your engine after a tune?

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"America.... still builds rockets!"
Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp
'13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP

Streetlife

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Tanabe Medalion Exhaust + Tanabe Y-Pipe, Baker Tuning, K&N Drop-Ins, Z1 Post MAF Tubes, GT-R Button, Nismo Magnetic Oil Drain Plug, CeramiKool Tint 35%, Solar Gard Clearshield Clearbra

MightyBobo

So interestingly enough, my car has had that "dead spot" in the lower RPM range lately, and I have an oil cooler. My temps weren't even past 200 I believe, at the time. I've also noticed that randomly while idling in neutral, the motor will suddenly drop RPM briefly as if it's about to die, and then catch back up again. It seems completely random when it happens - I'm tempted to pull my MAF's and clean them out a bit, or at least reset my ECU. Fairly convinced it's a tuning issue for me.

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I don't own a car anymore.

tjlazer

LOL. It feels like am going to "overclock" my car with an UPREV tune. Pretty funny but I do feel they were very conservative with the tune to prevent damage when the engine gets too hot. But I do get to 220 pretty easy and the bogging is getting old.

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

henry0844

my car also seemed like it wanted to die at idle. this happened when the car was completely stock. I then added g3's, 19 row cooler, berk exhaust and tune and the car still bogged down at idle. I thought it might have been the fans kicking on and putting load on the electrical system but the two wound up being unrelated. I still don't know what it could be, I had the fan control tune from uprev and it did not help. whatever it is, it has never happened on my g37 sedan.

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2010 PW 370 base+sport 6mt
Stillen g3's/ Berk CBE / Stillen 19 row/ uprev: 308whp 255wtq dyno jet @ specialty z.

binary0x01

I'm hoping my 2012 is not gonna go down that path. I'm planning to do an oil cooler install after I get the springs, stabilizer bars and spacers done with.

henry0844

if u haven't experienced it yet then your probably good. mine did it intermittently since new. I don't notice any loss in performance but it cant be normal or else everyone would have this annoyance.

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2010 PW 370 base+sport 6mt
Stillen g3's/ Berk CBE / Stillen 19 row/ uprev: 308whp 255wtq dyno jet @ specialty z.

SurfDog

Interesting. I have 09.
no cooler (although it is my next mod) no bog (and I do get after the car with some spirited driving now and then)

I have upreved my car with bolt ons.

I wonder if I just haven't noticed the bog, but sounds like I is hard to miss. Hmm.

I have definitely noticed VDC bogs, but the VDC light is always flashing when it happens.

Ill stay tuned in here to see if somebody discovered the cause. Good luck!

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09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix