Nissan 370Z Forum - oil / oil filter

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oil / oil filter

I've seen Redline mentioned a lot, not so much AMSOIL, and hardly any talk of Mobile 1.

I've always used Mobile 1 in my car (Honda Civic), and most of the time in my truck (Ford Ranger, though I put whatever in it now) and always in my bike (Honda VTX1300 the 10-40 M4RT oil...).

I figured on using Mobile1 in my 370Z, but, having learned that it's a group IV, and not a group V (which from what I've read, Redline is) - should I consider switching?

Same deal with the filter. I've used pretty much whatever filter...typically on my bike, a Honda filter from a dealer (I know it'll work and they can't gripe about warranty, and I've heard rumors about K&N filters sometimes bypass when they aren't clogged), on the car, K&N, Mobile1, Wix - on my truck, whatever...currently K&N, but I've used Fram mostly...

Just looking for advice, not flames - thanks! :)

I'm currently running Redline with K&N. I am def keeping the Redline but may give the WIX or the new Royal Purple filter a try.

AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters - Nanofiber Technology

Royal Purple State-of-the-art Oil Filter

Why not run the Amsoil (Best of both world, IV and V)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z (Post 86787)

I don't know anyone that sells Amsoil - given that someone has to sell it out of their garage, I think it'd kinda shady...

Redline I've heard a bit of, mosly when I worked for a performance auto-parts store (Lane Automotive in Michigan) - but outside of that, I've never used it.

Mobile-1 is easy to get, and until now, I thought was the best oil you could get, without going to racing oil - which, I guess is what Redline is...

370Z oil flow rate

What is the oil flow rate design for at idle and WOT for a 370Z? My stock 370Z did not come with a oil pressure gauge (only a oil temp gauge).

AMSOIL Ea Oil filters are a bit costly but really are top notch. The oil issue causes a lot of argument and I personally haven't been able to decide just yet.

need help...miles 1,450 taking a trip still have the first oil in the the car should i have it change before or after the trip, the time driving about 4 hours, my temp been right at 220 sity driving???

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert Z (Post 89068)

Change it, IMO...

I plan on dropping the OEM oil out at 1K, and using my oil of preference from then on.

I figure it's broken in quite well at that point. (most of it's done at the factory, from what I understand)

i changed mine to mobile 1 and use a royal purple filter. seems to work fine so far.

Changed mine again on Monday (3rd time, ~10,400 miles). First two times I used Castrol GTX but now I've gone to Mobil 1 and Nissan filter.

Not a big fan of Royal Purple oil, but AMS Oil and Mobil One are awesome oils, a couple of friends that I know that compete in Redline Time Attack run AMS Oil, Mobil One and Motul and never have problems, it performance incredibly. ENEOS Oils is also really good.

I am going to use Royal Purple oil and a purolator oil filter for my next oil change (4K miles, had 1st change done at 1K).

I bit the bullet and put the expensive factory ester oil in at 1200 miles until the is more solid experience with other oils. The issue some claim is "ticking" in the head if you don't use an ester based oil.

I personally wouldn't switch to full synthetic at least until 3000 miles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AMPLIFIED (Post 90007)

Any reason why you don't like RP?

I'm thinking of RP or Redline.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdanna (Post 90213)

Well, worst case, if you hear a "ticking", swap oils, and see if it goes away.

If not, then it could be either 1) it made the ticking noise all along or 2) there's something causing it that needs to be addressed.

As long as you're using the correct weight of oil, there isn't any reason why one would cause "ticking" and the others wouldn't :)

At least, that's my opinion. I know oils are not all the same, but they all perform to basic standards. Those basic standards should be enough for the engine....just we like to use stuff that exceeds those in the hopes of better performance / longevity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdanna (Post 90213)

You don't have to wait 3000 miles. Here is some info straight from Mobil (Mobil_Oil_Myths):

Quote:

Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

Redline recommends waiting 3,000 miles primarily for rebuilt engines - not fresh engines from major manufacturers; here's a quote from Road & Track Technical Correspondence Column (9 years ago, emphasis below added, link is Redline_break-in_link):

Quote:

Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.

Another interesting tidbit from the same link:

Quote:

Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.

It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.

Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1.

BTW, anyone know what type of oil that Nissan puts in at the factory? I'd bet it's synthetic...

Quote:

BTW, anyone know what type of oil that Nissan puts in at the factory? I'd bet it's synthetic...

Synthetic blend with ester additives.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiquidZ (Post 91978)

Synthetic blend with ester additives.

"Synthetic blend" like Castrol Syntec Blend (part dino oil, part synthetic), but with ester additives?

Someone who had an issue at a deal notmygtr maybe? posted something about a really good filter that helped lower his temps.. cant find it though

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 92437)

"Synthetic blend" like Castrol Syntec Blend (part dino oil, part synthetic), but with ester additives?

Correct