What is the best way to drain dirty oils in oil cooler???

Huan'z · 02-26-2012, 02:50 PM

Just wondering what is the best way to drain dirty oils out the oil cooler?
I don't think is a good idea to mix the old oils to the fresh oil. Please help!
Thanks a lot guys!!

roy'sz · 02-26-2012, 04:06 PM

I've had my cooler for 18,000 miles....and haven't drained it once. Keep in mind that as long as you aren't mixing the brand and weight of oils you will be fine. All you are doing is mixing 1qt used with 5 quarts new, it honestly doesn't harm it that much. If you are that concerned than fill it, run it, and drain out a qt of oil and replace with one fresh. Honestly you really won't notice the mixing of the "bad" oil and the fittings on the cooler, the body panels and tray panels are not designed to be taken apart every 3000 miles.

Huan'z · 02-26-2012, 05:29 PM

Really 18k miles without any problem?? Thanks Roy! I will do that. But how many quarts do I need to put in my engine for the first time? I got a stillen 24 rows oil cooler. And also how many quarts do I need for my next oil change with oil cooler that had the old oils in it?

Thanks Roy!

!

roy'sz · 02-28-2012, 01:05 PM

you need probably about 1qt for the cooler or 3/4 and get a 5qt jug for the pan. that will be enough to get it running at a somewhat normal level. also piece of advice, when you fasten the hoses to the cooler fasten them so that they face slightly out or away from the fram and then zip tie the hoses to the crash bar. I found what that does is it makes for a constant "tightening" of the an lines to the cooler. Sometimes with vibration it can unfasten the adapters. I've had mine like that for 17k and no problems. I luckily caught it after the first thousand when i was fabricating my block off plate.

Huan'z · 02-28-2012, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

you need probably about 1qt for the cooler or 3/4 and get a 5qt jug for the pan. that will be enough to get it running at a somewhat normal level. also piece of advice, when you fasten the hoses to the cooler fasten them so that they face slightly out or away from the fram and then zip tie the hoses to the crash bar. I found what that does is it makes for a constant "tightening" of the an lines to the cooler. Sometimes with vibration it can unfasten the adapters. I've had mine like that for 17k and no problems. I luckily caught it after the first thousand when i was fabricating my block off plate.

Thanks a lot Roy! I will do that! You're the man!

roy'sz · 02-29-2012, 04:45 PM

hey also you are going to need to grind down a deepset 1in sockett to make it thinwalled to torque the adapter bolt to the oil filter housing (providing that you are using the mocal thermostatic adapter). You are going to want to rind back aobut 1/4 so that it clears the wall inside the mocal adapter flow channel. Also make sure its a 6pt socket to ensure a solid grip.

Good luck with your cooler install, its a no brainer.

BigT · 03-01-2012, 04:02 PM

There are so many cars out today with OE oil coolers. I have yet to hear of any car that requires a drain of said cooler when changing your oil.

cossie1600 · 03-01-2012, 06:45 PM

Most are water to oil cooler...

BigT · 03-01-2012, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

Most are water to oil cooler...

Eh.... Both my evo's had rather large external air to air oil coolers. One was an Evo 8 and the other an Evo X and neither of the service manuals mentioned draining the oil cooler when doing oil changes.

NYBladeZ · 03-01-2012, 11:17 PM

I always drain the oil cooler, if you're already making the effort to change the oil why not drain the cooler? I installed my GTM oil cooler with the fitting pointed down so its pretty easy.

cossie1600 · 03-01-2012, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigT

Eh.... Both my evo's had rather large external air to air oil coolers. One was an Evo 8 and the other an Evo X and neither of the service manuals mentioned draining the oil cooler when doing oil changes.

Note I said MOST

roy'sz · 03-02-2012, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYBladeZ

I always drain the oil cooler, if you're already making the effort to change the oil why not drain the cooler? I installed my GTM oil cooler with the fitting pointed down so its pretty easy.

you know those fitings are no designed to be taken apart and put back together that frequently right?

NYBladeZ · 03-02-2012, 01:42 PM

That may be true but if you are meticulous and always check for leaks etc. then you shouldn't have a problem.

02-26-2012, 02:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
Huan'z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: houston,texas Posts: 641 Drives: black 370z 7/AT. Rep Power: 16	What is the best way to drain dirty oils in oil cooler??? Just wondering what is the best way to drain dirty oils out the oil cooler? I don't think is a good idea to mix the old oils to the fresh oil. Please help! Thanks a lot guys!!

03-01-2012, 11:17 PM	#10 (permalink)
NYBladeZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: New York Posts: 2,158 Drives: Lotus Exige S Rep Power: 20	I always drain the oil cooler, if you're already making the effort to change the oil why not drain the cooler? I installed my GTM oil cooler with the fitting pointed down so its pretty easy. __________________ 2009 Carbon Fiber/Red 370z aka Trish: Sports Package, Meisterschaft full catback, Fast Intentions Longtube Headers, Injen Long Tube Intakes, UpRev Tune: Sold 2008 Lotus Exige S Club Racer aka Bella, always leaves me smiling

03-02-2012, 01:42 PM	#13 (permalink)
NYBladeZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: New York Posts: 2,158 Drives: Lotus Exige S Rep Power: 20	That may be true but if you are meticulous and always check for leaks etc. then you shouldn't have a problem. __________________ 2009 Carbon Fiber/Red 370z aka Trish: Sports Package, Meisterschaft full catback, Fast Intentions Longtube Headers, Injen Long Tube Intakes, UpRev Tune: Sold 2008 Lotus Exige S Club Racer aka Bella, always leaves me smiling

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02-26-2012, 04:06 PM	#2 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	I've had my cooler for 18,000 miles....and haven't drained it once. Keep in mind that as long as you aren't mixing the brand and weight of oils you will be fine. All you are doing is mixing 1qt used with 5 quarts new, it honestly doesn't harm it that much. If you are that concerned than fill it, run it, and drain out a qt of oil and replace with one fresh. Honestly you really won't notice the mixing of the "bad" oil and the fittings on the cooler, the body panels and tray panels are not designed to be taken apart every 3000 miles.

02-26-2012, 05:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
Huan'z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: houston,texas Posts: 641 Drives: black 370z 7/AT. Rep Power: 16	Really 18k miles without any problem?? Thanks Roy! I will do that. But how many quarts do I need to put in my engine for the first time? I got a stillen 24 rows oil cooler. And also how many quarts do I need for my next oil change with oil cooler that had the old oils in it? Thanks Roy! !

02-28-2012, 01:05 PM	#4 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	you need probably about 1qt for the cooler or 3/4 and get a 5qt jug for the pan. that will be enough to get it running at a somewhat normal level. also piece of advice, when you fasten the hoses to the cooler fasten them so that they face slightly out or away from the fram and then zip tie the hoses to the crash bar. I found what that does is it makes for a constant "tightening" of the an lines to the cooler. Sometimes with vibration it can unfasten the adapters. I've had mine like that for 17k and no problems. I luckily caught it after the first thousand when i was fabricating my block off plate.

02-29-2012, 04:45 PM	#6 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	hey also you are going to need to grind down a deepset 1in sockett to make it thinwalled to torque the adapter bolt to the oil filter housing (providing that you are using the mocal thermostatic adapter). You are going to want to rind back aobut 1/4 so that it clears the wall inside the mocal adapter flow channel. Also make sure its a 6pt socket to ensure a solid grip. Good luck with your cooler install, its a no brainer.

03-01-2012, 04:02 PM	#7 (permalink)
BigT Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 469 Drives: 98 2g DSM Rep Power: 14	There are so many cars out today with OE oil coolers. I have yet to hear of any car that requires a drain of said cooler when changing your oil.

03-01-2012, 06:45 PM	#8 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	Most are water to oil cooler...