Clutch problems

DIGItonium · 02-17-2012, 01:07 AM

Yup... or get in 1st, release, depress, and get in 1st again. It gets stuck in 1st and R. Get in 3rd or 4th, then back to 1st and you're fine. Unfortunately it's second nature habit to me now.

Have you done some 1-2 shifts at high RPM? If you can do it many times successfully, then I'm jealous haha. Weather hasn't been so great, so I've not been able to drive the car as hard. Believe it or not, boost controller was installed last week, and I still haven't played with it yet.

Joe@ZSpeed · 02-17-2012, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium

Mine was bled twice, so pedal pressure is good. Like Ron, we both have have the sticky gear issue still. My clutch now engages near up top now as well (nice without the extra play). Although it gets notchy at times, it's much better than before. Plus, gearbox fluid flush makes seems to have improved shifting effort as well (smoother).

I know yours has a possibility of a disk with too much marcel which I have agreed with you to take care of before, but Rons should have no issues at all with release.
I spent all day verifying this by installing the exact set-up he has. I had the same basic set-up as yours before this one and it worked perfectly also.
Not sure what is going on and I wish I could be at both your places to figure it out.

O&G · 02-17-2012, 01:11 AM

Clutch installs are pretty strait forward, sounds like maybe CSC issue? But then you can go into all the other gears after 1st w/o issue. This is why I didn't get twin disc setup, too race car for me, and now I have a slipping clutch :/ lol! I know it's a quality product and we will get to the bottom of it.

Ron · 02-17-2012, 01:11 AM

I have no problem getting stuck on a gear and I can shift fast from one to another even at high rpm (sorry digi). The issue is getting that initial gear to get in, regardles if it's 1,2,3,4,5,6 or R. Once I get any of those in it's ok.. Until I have to stop the car and start again. I'm sure you all get what I mean lol. I'm gonna stop repeating myself now.

Joe@ZSpeed · 02-17-2012, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron

Yes it still happens. I start the car, let it sit. Depress clutch all the way to the floor, wait a few seconds and go for 1st. Won't go in and have to force it. Once it is, with the clutch still pressed I can shift through all gears with no issue. Drive until I have to stop and the same thing happens.

There are only a few things that can cause it then, I know this set-up has perfect release, I have now proved it to myself twice on my own car and have done about 4 other 370's that have had no issues either, Not the exact same clutch, Still south bends though.

Did you clean the splines and make sure the disk slid easily across them before install?

Other possibilities are that the disk is bent from installation, this can happen from letting the trans hang on the disk while stabbing the trans.

The splines are dirty and not allowing the disk to slide freely or burred up causing the disk to stick on the input shaft

The pilot bushing is damaged from install and spinning the input shaft.

The disk is scored and has a high spot from slipping it too much before break in was completed, If it is this it may get better after wearing some material off.

That is all I can think of for now, I will think more on it while I'm not sleeping tonight

O&G · 02-17-2012, 01:24 AM

Put some more miles on it and bring it by the shop Tuesday maybe Wednesday, txt/call me Monday, I'll let Johnny know whats up. I want to drive it, you can drive mine Oo!

O&G · 02-17-2012, 01:28 AM

We will actually be there Saturday having a party(margarita machine & keg) for their kids 1st bday if you want to stop by and let us check it out.

Ron · 02-17-2012, 01:34 AM

I'm working sat. I can do Monday or Tuesday. Unless it's sat at like 8pm lol

Joe I emailed u the answers to those scenarios too.

-Not sure if they cleaned the splines, gotta ask them
-Tranny was on a tranny stand/jack when being reinstalled
-New nismo needle pilot bushing installed
-I have not pushed the car over 5k maybe 6k once and already after 220miles, this was actually tonight after getting the air out of the system. Always waited for revs to come down before shifting. Issue has been happening since day 1 of the new clutch. I just figured once I got the air out this would go away too.

DIGItonium · 02-17-2012, 01:37 AM

Thanks, Joe. That's what I was wondering about Ron's situation. I'll live with mine for now until I get around to ordering a new clutch disk from you. Heck, I might wait for aftermarket master cylinder when it becomes available.

It's a daily driver, so it's not much of a big issue right now. It's much better now after the recent adjustment. Other than getting used to the higher engagement point, shifts are much lighter now. Once I get everything else (other priorities) squared away I can get back to this hobby.

OKC Z · 02-17-2012, 08:39 AM

What should I do? Take it back to nissan or any mechanic should be able to do this? Im only having little bit of a trouble going into 1st and have very high engagement? Does this mean I have air in the master too? Im thinking I should just wait and shop around for a new master.

Joe@ZSpeed · 02-17-2012, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OKC Z

What should I do? Take it back to nissan or any mechanic should be able to do this? Im only having little bit of a trouble going into 1st and have very high engagement? Does this mean I have air in the master too? Im thinking I should just wait and shop around for a new master.

You either still have air in it somewhere and they probably have you adjustment too far out to try and make up for it causing the high pedal release.

My release point is in the same spot as it was when it was stock.

Joe@ZSpeed · 02-17-2012, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron

Status update. All the fvcking air is out!!! Drove 30+miles. Pedal remained the same. My god does this thing shift fast.

Here's what I did:

-Drain the system to the last drop.
-Gravity bleed until you go through about 5-7 reservoirs (don't let it go below "min"!)
-Close the bleed valve from the CSC, pump pedal about 30times. Hold pedal in. Open valve. Repeat this about 10 times.
-Adjut pin on the pedal to where it is about flush with the clevis or about 1 thread inside.
-With pedal all the way out and no pressure whatsoever on it, crack the slave valve open and close it quickly. Do the same with the master.
-Pump a couple of times.
-Go drive and enjoy the clutch!

Bad news... Issue number 2 remains. I am still having the problem getting into gear after putting the car in neutral and releasing the clutch. When I force 1st the car moves a couple of inches forward, like the clutch is not disengaging completely. Once I get a gear in and get the car moving there is no problem shifting.

Ron, did you do as I had recommended and back the adjustment off before breaking the line loose at the master and letting it sit? Did you see air or fluid come out up there?

Must also have resv cap off while doing this. If the air is trapped you will not get full slave travel even if the pedal feels good. Air compresses, fluid doesn't

Zat_Zuma · 02-17-2012, 10:28 AM

My experience is close to what Joe has said. Once the air is finally removed from the system, the stroke adjustment must be reset.

It also takes awhile before the clutch breaks in and 1'st gear creep with the clutch disengaged at a stop, goes away.

My southbend clutch system operated flawlessly now that it is properly adjusted and broke in. I haven't replaced the CSC yet, as the stock one is still working well with the CSC cap installed. But we both know it's just a matter of time before it fails.

Ron · 02-17-2012, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed

Ron, did you do as I had recommended and back the adjustment off before breaking the line loose at the master and letting it sit? Did you see air or fluid come out up there?

Must also have resv cap off while doing this. If the air is trapped you will not get full slave travel even if the pedal feels good. Air compresses, fluid doesn't

When you say back the adjustment off, do you mean adjusting the rod to where it is flush or 1 thread inside the clevis? If so, then yes. When I cracked it open I saw nothing first and then I got some fluid drops. Resv cap was off like you suggested.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma

My experience is close to what Joe has said. Once the air is finally removed from the system, the stroke adjustment must be reset.

It also takes awhile before the clutch breaks in and 1'st gear creep with the clutch disengaged at a stop, goes away.

My southbend clutch system operated flawlessly now that it is properly adjusted and broke in. I haven't replaced the CSC yet, as the stock one is still working well with the CSC cap installed. But we both know it's just a matter of time before it fails.

I sure hope that is the issue and that it goes away with a little more mileage.

Ron · 02-17-2012, 10:55 AM

Joe, as requested here are some videos that I took

02-17-2012, 01:07 AM	#16 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 43	Yup... or get in 1st, release, depress, and get in 1st again. It gets stuck in 1st and R. Get in 3rd or 4th, then back to 1st and you're fine. Unfortunately it's second nature habit to me now. Have you done some 1-2 shifts at high RPM? If you can do it many times successfully, then I'm jealous haha. Weather hasn't been so great, so I've not been able to drive the car as hard. Believe it or not, boost controller was installed last week, and I still haven't played with it yet. __________________

02-17-2012, 01:11 AM	#18 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	Clutch installs are pretty strait forward, sounds like maybe CSC issue? But then you can go into all the other gears after 1st w/o issue. This is why I didn't get twin disc setup, too race car for me, and now I have a slipping clutch :/ lol! I know it's a quality product and we will get to the bottom of it. __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal

02-17-2012, 01:11 AM	#19 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 22	I have no problem getting stuck on a gear and I can shift fast from one to another even at high rpm (sorry digi). The issue is getting that initial gear to get in, regardles if it's 1,2,3,4,5,6 or R. Once I get any of those in it's ok.. Until I have to stop the car and start again. I'm sure you all get what I mean lol. I'm gonna stop repeating myself now. __________________ 2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT \|\| HKS EVC6 \|\| Custom CarPC \|\| F.I 3'' TDX CBE \|\| SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC \|\| BC BR Coilovers \|\| SPC camber arms \|\| Work VSS-X \|\| Custom Headlights \|\| PW:JDM CF Covers \|\| Seibon CF Engine Cover ] Last edited by Ron; 02-17-2012 at 01:16 AM.

02-17-2012, 01:24 AM	#21 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	Put some more miles on it and bring it by the shop Tuesday maybe Wednesday, txt/call me Monday, I'll let Johnny know whats up. I want to drive it, you can drive mine Oo! __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal

02-17-2012, 01:28 AM	#22 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	We will actually be there Saturday having a party(margarita machine & keg) for their kids 1st bday if you want to stop by and let us check it out. __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal

02-17-2012, 01:34 AM	#23 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 22	I'm working sat. I can do Monday or Tuesday. Unless it's sat at like 8pm lol Joe I emailed u the answers to those scenarios too. -Not sure if they cleaned the splines, gotta ask them -Tranny was on a tranny stand/jack when being reinstalled -New nismo needle pilot bushing installed -I have not pushed the car over 5k maybe 6k once and already after 220miles, this was actually tonight after getting the air out of the system. Always waited for revs to come down before shifting. Issue has been happening since day 1 of the new clutch. I just figured once I got the air out this would go away too. __________________ 2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT \|\| HKS EVC6 \|\| Custom CarPC \|\| F.I 3'' TDX CBE \|\| SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC \|\| BC BR Coilovers \|\| SPC camber arms \|\| Work VSS-X \|\| Custom Headlights \|\| PW:JDM CF Covers \|\| Seibon CF Engine Cover ] Last edited by Ron; 02-17-2012 at 01:48 AM.

02-17-2012, 01:37 AM	#24 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 43	Thanks, Joe. That's what I was wondering about Ron's situation. I'll live with mine for now until I get around to ordering a new clutch disk from you. Heck, I might wait for aftermarket master cylinder when it becomes available. It's a daily driver, so it's not much of a big issue right now. It's much better now after the recent adjustment. Other than getting used to the higher engagement point, shifts are much lighter now. Once I get everything else (other priorities) squared away I can get back to this hobby. __________________

02-17-2012, 08:39 AM	#25 (permalink)
OKC Z Base Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: OKC Posts: 205 Drives: '09 370z-$old 9/1/12 Rep Power: 14	What should I do? Take it back to nissan or any mechanic should be able to do this? Im only having little bit of a trouble going into 1st and have very high engagement? Does this mean I have air in the master too? Im thinking I should just wait and shop around for a new master.

02-17-2012, 10:28 AM	#28 (permalink)
Zat_Zuma A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta ...eh Posts: 1,171 Drives: 2017 Touring auto Rep Power: 19	My experience is close to what Joe has said. Once the air is finally removed from the system, the stroke adjustment must be reset. It also takes awhile before the clutch breaks in and 1'st gear creep with the clutch disengaged at a stop, goes away. My southbend clutch system operated flawlessly now that it is properly adjusted and broke in. I haven't replaced the CSC yet, as the stock one is still working well with the CSC cap installed. But we both know it's just a matter of time before it fails. __________________ [B]2009 & 2017 370Z Touring Sport Autos SOLD

02-17-2012, 10:55 AM	#30 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 22	Joe, as requested here are some videos that I took __________________ 2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT \|\| HKS EVC6 \|\| Custom CarPC \|\| F.I 3'' TDX CBE \|\| SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC \|\| BC BR Coilovers \|\| SPC camber arms \|\| Work VSS-X \|\| Custom Headlights \|\| PW:JDM CF Covers \|\| Seibon CF Engine Cover ]

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