Car trying to Turnover but no fire
 

so car was in an accident and after stripping it down and verifying none of the wiring was damaged or cut, that I would attempt to jump it.

NOW, this attempt involved NO BATTERY in the Z but did involve 2 methods.
First: I connected cables to the battery terminals directly "no battery in Z" and other end to a Jeep Battery 810 cold start. SURPrise all the lights and etc worked like normal. So the moment of truth, the start buttom seemed to respond normal and the two position of the button responded so went for the clutch and button and the car ATTEMPED to turn over but quick dead turn over and never even fired the motor up.

Second: I took the battery OUT of my other other car, Ford explorer. Hook cables to battery "which is on the ground and directly to the terminals again and got the same exact result.

I checked the stock Volt gauge and it read 12volts. I would have attempted to place a battery in there but neither SUV batteries would fit and its midnight so no stores to buy one, except walmart but dont like going there at this time lol.

SOooo my question is, AFTER AN ACCIDENT is there somesort of safety feature that disables the 370z from starting up? This involved airbags coming out, steering wheel bag, and ripped an entire wheel of the car with hub and spindle. Again, I am just not sure if something like that even is in our cars but figured I'd ask. Also could a sensor or a knock sensor cause this??? Ive never had airbags come out so also I think perhaps airbag modeule or airbag sensor of some sort may be causing my problem?? If so any way to by-pass it to test motor??

Help me and Ill love you forever :tup:

Sucks man, I'm sure it just adds to the frustration of your car being smashed. I know those Volkswagen commercials advertised they had a fuel safety cutoff at time of impact. Do you have a code reader that you can scan? Even so when the battery was pulled you would think the ECU would reset which leads me to believe it is a physical problem not an ECU one (unless it is some sort of hard coding).

Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn the car to the ON position without cranking?

Call Jared over at Speed for Sale. ;) he is close to the body shop and can go through the car and let you know whats wrong.

Mike

from my experience, sometimes when a car is in an accident it will cut fuel to the engine to prevent any fires. There is usually a reset switch, I know in Fords its in the trunk.

No there isn't

so why is everybody stating that after an accident, fuel is cut off from engine. Guess i need to get a computer to test car. Might have to buy an ecu code reader since car isnt drivable and in my garage. I dont even know if there is a code since car wont turn on. It just turns over for 1 second or 3 seconds or 1 second but never fires.

I would assume some kind of airbag module, crankshaft sensor or something...

Atleast all the lights, windows, wipers, doors, ac work and the car somewhat turns but no fire. :shakes head:


BTW: mike the car isnt at the body shop, if your talking about ArtCraft. Its in my garage for right now until my parts come in.

first i would check if the fuel pump is getting power or if the ecu or airbag system deactivated it due to the accident. also make sure the car has gas in it. and if the accident or towing could have caused all the fuel to end up on the drivers side of the tank than the fuel pump would starve... and the siphon that brings fuel from the drivers side to the passenger side where the pump is, is a venturi that is pressurized by the fuel pressure regulator... so no fuel pressure means no transfer so the gauge could say you have up to just below half a tank, but be reading the drivers side only, and the car wont start. this situation would be remedied by just adding a gallon to the tank since it fills on the pump side.

If the key goes to the on position then the car is "on" the car doesn't need to run to pull codes from the ECU.

Speaking of fuel pumps and starvation.:tup: Kidding.

I'll try that also had Jon at z1 mention that the car could be on theft mode, which I didn't l ow we had, and the key should be in the slot when attempting to fire up rather than my pockets

Interesting... never heard of this.

Well tired many things and car is still not starting... I recorded a video clip of the issue. See if anybody could help....

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...h_IMG_4201.jpg

http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_4201.mp4

Sorry if this was said already but I would suggest putting the battery in the Z and firing it like that. The jumper setup doesn't provide enough cca to really fire it up and so thats why it's dying. Jumping works because there's a main source of power the og battery even if the batteries low that low battery has cca even low its low.

even if its a 880 cc battery while the car is holding 12 volts?? I honestly wanted to go buy a battery and try that method but believed it would fire up this way but somewhere deep down inside me i thought the battery would be needed :) damnit why do I doubt myself.

Looks like a battery issue to me. 90% sure.

aight ill buy a new battery and try it out. Figured the car reading 14volts would at-least allow it to fire up.. Whats a good battery to buy since im going for a new one lol. Factory or optima?

Sears Platinum. Little on the $$ but worth it. Have one in my Jeep GC and my Power Wagon. I have a 15,000 lb winch on the Power Wagon, and I can't kill that Platinum. :tup:

Yea well im expecting $100 plus lol. Let me look at this badass battery your speaking off :)

that's an expensive *** battery modification "$220" lol

the optima redtop is $189 from factory. EBAY has them new FREE SHIPPING $160... so might go for the red top. Matches my red car too :nutswinger:

EDIT: BTW "IN CARTMAN VOICE" I WILL BE SO-OOOOOOOOO PISSED' OFF" IF THIS DOESN'T FIX MY PROBLEM LOL

It seems like a power delivery issue rather than an ECU/safety feature problem. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you'll have a new battery. Although, I'd recommend testing before throwing parts at it. Just because you're getting 14v at KOEO (Key on engine off), doesn't mean it's putting out 14v (or enough amperage) when cranking. Get the battery tested. Autozone does it for free.99

You could always try a jump box, hooked directly to the battery terminals. The only reason you'd be having issues with the battery + jumper cables would be from resistance, in my opinion. Now that I mention resistance, check all of your grounds! My 240 did this same exact thing after I had it in the shop. Turned out that the tech put a new ground cable in when they installed my battery, and it wasn't tight. I Dremeled the paint off the ground area (batt was in the trunk), reinstalled the cable and tightened it down and never had another issue.

Yea the old battery got tested and it was bad do I needed to order a battery regardless. I just figured cables to car without a battery but still to the terminals would work if it's registrating 14volts at point of connection, like a battery does but guess the amps are too low. I recall having my stereo and getting volts down to 12-13 and still fired up but prehaps amps are high enough to fire car up.

I've checked wiring but I'll recheck. Nothin new has been done just repairing but no wires were damaged or became loose. No fuses blown or anything. Know the only thing I didn't check is relay but figured I would once new battery is in. Ignition relay maybe??? Doubt it but gotta check alternative if battery doesn't resolve

Just saw the end of your video and now i'm 100% sure it is the battery. I thought you had a battery in the car, but you dont. When you jump a car normally, the good car's alternator charges the dead battery and supplies the extra current needed to start the dead battery.

Without a battery in the dead car, you are completely relying on the other car's battery to supply 100% of the current. Depending on the length and gauge of the cable, the voltage loss is 20-25%.

Well **** you learn something new everyday... Funny thing is IVE neVER in my LIFE jumped a car the way i did lol. Ill let you guys know whats up. Ordering optima better so gotta wait for it to come in. Should be epic, while atleast for me :)

Sooooooo.... after 6 months of silence, she returns :) stupid battery haha. Now I need to look at manual and find out two problems:

where the car temp sensor is
Why car only revs to 2k rpms then wants to cut off but I think its because i did not put the intake back on correct "dont worry nothign went in the manifold" I put a filter over the opening but sensor was disconnected.

Probably need to reset ecu but figured not having a battery for such a long time did that. Oh well GLAD ITS RUNNING

thanks everybody for the help



btw: gas smells awful. Good thing im replacing exhaust with a stillen system and headers. lol