Looks like a battery issue to me. 90% sure.

aight ill buy a new battery and try it out. Figured the car reading 14volts would at-least allow it to fire up.. Whats a good battery to buy since im going for a new one lol. Factory or optima?

Sears Platinum. Little on the $$ but worth it. Have one in my Jeep GC and my Power Wagon. I have a 15,000 lb winch on the Power Wagon, and I can't kill that Platinum. :tup:

Yea well im expecting $100 plus lol. Let me look at this badass battery your speaking off :)

that's an expensive *** battery modification "$220" lol

the optima redtop is $189 from factory. EBAY has them new FREE SHIPPING $160... so might go for the red top. Matches my red car too :nutswinger:

EDIT: BTW "IN CARTMAN VOICE" I WILL BE SO-OOOOOOOOO PISSED' OFF" IF THIS DOESN'T FIX MY PROBLEM LOL

It seems like a power delivery issue rather than an ECU/safety feature problem. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you'll have a new battery. Although, I'd recommend testing before throwing parts at it. Just because you're getting 14v at KOEO (Key on engine off), doesn't mean it's putting out 14v (or enough amperage) when cranking. Get the battery tested. Autozone does it for free.99

You could always try a jump box, hooked directly to the battery terminals. The only reason you'd be having issues with the battery + jumper cables would be from resistance, in my opinion. Now that I mention resistance, check all of your grounds! My 240 did this same exact thing after I had it in the shop. Turned out that the tech put a new ground cable in when they installed my battery, and it wasn't tight. I Dremeled the paint off the ground area (batt was in the trunk), reinstalled the cable and tightened it down and never had another issue.

Yea the old battery got tested and it was bad do I needed to order a battery regardless. I just figured cables to car without a battery but still to the terminals would work if it's registrating 14volts at point of connection, like a battery does but guess the amps are too low. I recall having my stereo and getting volts down to 12-13 and still fired up but prehaps amps are high enough to fire car up.

I've checked wiring but I'll recheck. Nothin new has been done just repairing but no wires were damaged or became loose. No fuses blown or anything. Know the only thing I didn't check is relay but figured I would once new battery is in. Ignition relay maybe??? Doubt it but gotta check alternative if battery doesn't resolve

Just saw the end of your video and now i'm 100% sure it is the battery. I thought you had a battery in the car, but you dont. When you jump a car normally, the good car's alternator charges the dead battery and supplies the extra current needed to start the dead battery.

Without a battery in the dead car, you are completely relying on the other car's battery to supply 100% of the current. Depending on the length and gauge of the cable, the voltage loss is 20-25%.

Well **** you learn something new everyday... Funny thing is IVE neVER in my LIFE jumped a car the way i did lol. Ill let you guys know whats up. Ordering optima better so gotta wait for it to come in. Should be epic, while atleast for me :)

Sooooooo.... after 6 months of silence, she returns :) stupid battery haha. Now I need to look at manual and find out two problems:

where the car temp sensor is
Why car only revs to 2k rpms then wants to cut off but I think its because i did not put the intake back on correct "dont worry nothign went in the manifold" I put a filter over the opening but sensor was disconnected.

Probably need to reset ecu but figured not having a battery for such a long time did that. Oh well GLAD ITS RUNNING

thanks everybody for the help



btw: gas smells awful. Good thing im replacing exhaust with a stillen system and headers. lol