TPMS light flashes then solid - Dealer suggests new car battery
 

For the past ~2 weeks, my car has gone from bad to worse in the TPMS department. At first, I was driving the maximum speed limit for ~45 minutes, when the TPMS light started flashing. After a minute of flashing, the light came on solid. I checked the tire pressure and everything measured good. I went to the dealer where they reset all the monitors and told me the system was A-OK. After another day or so, the light flashed and went solid again. Sometimes the solid light disapears for a little bit, but then flashes/solid not so long after.

I did a search already, and seems a lot of people have this issue with this and other Nissan vehicles, but no real solution to the problem. I was of course hesitant, but since I had to get some warantee work done anyways, I asked the dealership if they could research the TPMS problem.

The dealer came back to me with the following diagnosis: a main battery on its way out. Not to be confused with the LiON batteries in the TPMS sensors - the dealership said those were absolutely not the problem. They diagnosed the main battery to only have ~300CA, where the battery should be rated for ~750CA. Trust had me at the dealer, as they recommended not a Nissan replacement, but an Optima Red/Yellow aftermarket battery.

Let me also say that I love accessories. I have an audio system capable of pulling about 125A, and an additional cooling fan on a thermostat (185 Degrees) for my oil cooler capable of about 5~10A.

I'm thinking I should guy an Optima battery now before my charging system starts to really strain, but wanted to post this first for any suggestions. Any?

I would have nissan replace all of the tire sensors on your car. My gf's altima has the same problem but is a 09 with 100k on it. If that doesn't solve it then keep parking it in their garage until it gets fixed. Do you have a cap kit on your audio system?

auto zone can check battery for free

I have the same issue with my TPMS light, it starts flashing after about 15 minutes of driving. Very annoying but the closest dealer is over 2 hours away so i have not done anything about it. I don't know why it would be the battery, my G37 is a 2010, never had any issues with the stock battery. Probably just a bad sensor.

As far as the Optima Batteries, I bought one (yellow top) about 8 years ago, worked awesome. It even survived an accident where it was pushed out of the hood (jeep). I used it for about 3 more years after that. It finally died. I replaced it with another yellow top, it died within a month. Replaced again. That one lasted a few weeks. They have a 1 year replacement warranty so i swapped it again and it's still doing ok. But if I don't drive the car (spec v) for a week it will be dead. They don't make them like they use to. I don't think I would get another one.

aren't red dots better than yellow?

IMO, a battery has gone dead inside one of your tire pressure sensors. The blinking light followed by solid indicates a failure of the ECU to find one or more sensors.

The dealer has a tool to program them and should be able to tell you which one isn't sending a reading to the ECU. They can then dismount that tire and change out the TPS- not sure if they have replaceable batteries.

I've had my complete set of TMPS replaced twice and it still doesn't work. I had them synced at the shop, and synced by a dealer. 5 minutes down the road, blinks then solid.

The only reasonable answer I've gotten is the difference between aftermarket sensors and the OEM sensors for your particular year model. Something about the codings being just different enough in the signals that your TPMS doesn't pick up the signal of others that makes it do that.

My only thought is Id have to order a set of 2010 OEM Sensors and try that, if they work with aftermarket wheels... :ugh2:

Other then that, I don't understand why the battery would have anything to do with it? :confused:

well after looking at the optima site, there is like 6 different models of each color, red and yellow. Maybe my original was a better model. Damn batteries.

From Optima's website:

I would go with the yellow-top if you have any sort of upgraded audio. Since I do, that's the one I'll be getting eventually. However I still don't see what the battery has to do with your TPMS since after the engine is running, it's powering your electrical system itself, not the battery.

It's not the battery... I've had this happen after one of my TPMS were damaged... it is either a bad battery in the TPMS or the unit is damaged (any tire mounting or bad potholes recently?). It also could be your ECU not correctly communicating with the sensor but that would be less likely to go bad.

All I know is I got a new set of wheels, which I'll be getting a new set of sensors for. If I drive away from the shop and the light comes on, I'm turning around and coming back until I either get them replaced with ones that work, or a whole new TPMS computer... :rofl2:

Wow lots of negative responses to my dealer suspecting the main car battery. I'm not sure what I should do now.

While I was there, the dealer did the full reprogramming of the TPMS sensors but the car only went about 10 minutes before the lights flashed/solid once again. Supposedly the dealership can tell if one of the TPMS sensor batteries is low, or otherwise a defetive sensor. The dealer claimed neither to be the case.

I wish I had a spare battery just sitting around for a proper test... but I did try something. While cruising this evening, I noted carefully the voltage gauge. While first running, its 14.2v. After about 30 minutes the voltage drops to 14v. I tried something, which may not be conclusive of the problem but a possible direction. I loaded the battery down with accessories and stereo while cruising, and the voltage dropped again to about 13.8v, again while cruising. At idle, loading down the voltage is quite easy hence why I did this while cruising. A few minutes later, the TPMS started flashing. I quickly turned off all the accessories I could, shifte to a lower gear to get the alternator spinning faster, and got the voltage back up to 14.0. The TPMS stopped flashing 30 seconds later and remained off until i got home. Interesting to say the least. The dealer said my alternator is 100% perfect.

BTW, my car is an '09 with 48,000 miles on it.

For my next test, I'm going to supply a 1A trickle charge to my battery over-night. Lets see if that helps the problem tomorrow morning.

Are your windows tinted?

That's really interesting... I would think that they should work fine as long as the voltage is over 12v which is the standard draw from what I understand but let us know what happens. At least most batteries are a cheap replacement so it isn't like it will break the bank.

The voltage gauge while running should not drop below 14v.

Go get a battery test at Autozone. They can tell you if the battery or alternator is going bad. It's a free service.

After charging the car battery with a 1A trickle over night for about 10 hours, the battery measured 13.3v with my Fluke meter. Car running, it was at first measuring 14.5 but after about an hour of stop & go traffic the voltage dropped to 14.2. This is with AC on, but I left my stereo off for the maiden voyage.

I cannot be 100% convinced, BUT... The TPMS light STAYED OFF this morning after last night's charge. I'm maybe 50% convinced its the battery at this point, and will report as-it-goes.


*If it comes down to needing a new battery, what would be better than either an Optima Yelow or Red top?

I thought Yellow tops were the better battery but I could be wrong.

The difference between the two is the Red top provides a better cranking charge and longer storage. The Yellow top provides a higher level of power constantly, hence why it's better for mobile audio/video.

It's not that one's 'better' than the other, it's just one is specified for one application, and the other for a different one.

If you're somewhere in a colder climate and store your Z for the winter, and don't care about stereo's, the Red top would be better for you.

If you're anywhere else, and or have a large aftermarket stereo installed, the Yellow top will be for you.

The tpms system registers tire pressures after driving consistantly over 25mph for x amount of time. Look it up in your owners manual under the tpms section. Also I have heard that if your windows are tinted it interfears with your tpms system (personally think its a bogus statement, all of my cars were tinted and no tpms issues). My dads 350 just blew 3 sensors and they are the originals. 06 350z with 178000ish miles just a fyi. If it is extremely cold where your car sits it may have had bad batteries in your tpms sensor? mhop

No, my windows are not tinted.... but, isnt the concern over tinting because of tint adding aluminum?? If so, perhaps my sound deadening material may be doing the same effect. From the trunk, hatch, under seats, to door panels all have it installed. Its Dynamat eXtreme made of Butyl rubber with an aluminum backing. FWIW it cuts the road noise, increases stereo efficiency, and is worth the pain of installed just for the improved quality/comfort of ride.

Since topping off my battery 2 nights ago I have not seen the TPMS light come on. My bat gauge has also stayed at or above 14v. I am also only cautiously using my car stereo as not to put excessive drain on the battery.

I'm gonna give it more time until I am 100% convinced I need a new car battery, but for now I'm about 60% convinced.



Has anyone actually changed their car battery yet in their 370z? These cars being still so new, I imagine not too many.

Does anyone know if the TPMS sensors in the 370z are the "direct" or "indirect" type?

I can't see the main car battery causing this issue... But I'm not a certified Nissan mechanic either.

Edit - must be the "direct" type. Just found the indirect type is not valid in the US.

i was watching my battery on the ride home last night and it stayed right around 13 - 12.8v, as always my TPMS light came on after about 12-15 minutes of driving. Maybe i will try the trickle charge as well and see if it has any effect.

You should check your alternator if your battery is getting that low when driving. You should be seeing 14v + while the engine is running. If you have a multimeter check the voltage right at the alternator... Also double check the connections on your battery terminals, make sure everything is clean and tight.

Unclemeaty, How many watts is your stereo and do you have a capacitor kit? The sound deadening might have something to do with it....I had taken the tire sensors off in my 08 mustang and mounted them on the spare tire in the trunk. The light flashed the same as yours did. When I put the tire in the back seat it didn't flash. I think its because of the distance to the tpms box, in your case with the added interfearance of the sound deadening material it could slimly possibly be the case. But if you have a warranty on your battery than I would go get it replaced or serviced.

I was looking at getting a Yellow top at some point, but based on their cost and mine still being relatively new, I hadn't bothered with it yet. I've never seen my voltmeter drop below 14v unless it's a very heavy bass song. I have a 1200 watt amp and a 1.2 farad cap, however I'll be swapping the amp to a newer model and removing the cap from the system as soon as I get new cable to rewire the subs. Should make the system even cleaner.

But as for TPMS, I was looking on eBay and found a set of 4 Z TPMS for $217. Anyone seen a better price so far? I'm getting new wheels put on soon and want 4 OEM sensors so they'll be covered under warranty if for some reason it still won't work so they can't say it's from me using aftermarket sensors. :icon17:

Hey chris you should upgrade to a 2 farad cap for that much wattage being used. The reason your volt meter is dropping that much on a heavy base is because its depleting your capacitor plus drawing off the battery, bigger cap= more storage and less draw off the battery= smoother play...imho upgrade cap and amp. Also that is a good price on the sensors being that they are 115 a pop at the dealership. I would watch them like a hawk when they change them and then keep the old ones just incase.

I'm upgrading the amp, but probably going to remove the cap from the system since newer amps (my old one is from 04) are much more efficient with creating power = less draw. Or at least that's what they claim... :icon17: We'll see.

Well here's a link to the eBay sale for anyone else that's interested...

2007-2011 NISSAN INFINITY TPMS Tire Pressure Sensor 4pc | eBay

I understand the claim for creating power but when you have a surge in any electrical circuit it will be noticeable ( like with heavy bass music), the cap acts as a filter. Good luck with your experiment, I bet top dollar you throw the cap back on.

I need to get a new(er) cap anyways. The one I have is 1.2 farad. Looking to go from a 1200 watt amp to a 1000 watt, so thinking I might still be good. The cap itself has been holding strong (also from 04). But might update everything based on almost 10 years of electronic progress...

Heres the Amp: Kicker IX1000.1 (10IX1000.1) Mono Class D Car Amplifier

Does anyone have experience with the cap brands out there... Not too much to choose from off hand without knowing where to turn...

Just to let you know the kicker 1000 is actually a 1998 watt amp. they are certified higher than the model number on the amp. I had the 1000 and the 250 or 500 for the doors. I had a power technique 2 farad cap with a 200 amp kicker fuse.

That's what I love about kicker. :rofl2: Always making more than they claim unlike most... :tup: But that's why I wanna drop from the 1200 watt to the 1000 watt, since the subs are only rated for 600 watts rms.

do you have the cvr 10's or 12's?

2004 S10L7's dual 4 ohm. I ordered 2 ohm's but they sent me 4. This is why I've gotta rewire them, so they'll be 2 ohm. :(

Oh ok gotcha. I had the 2 ohm voice coilover ( not soo sure on the name) cvr10's. I had 2 off of the 1000 amp. The feed to the speakers was bridges to raide the ohm to 2. Just take it to best buy and tell them here "Fix it" lol.

:rofl2: My one and only best buy experience was taking a head unit to have put in to replace the stock one. Let's just say the install ended up with me installing the damn thing myself using their tools since I knew more than their 'classroom certified' installer. :rofl2:

Never again. I was feeling lazy, now I know why I only trust my Abby to my own hands. :bowrofl:

I would get the jl hd1200/1 if i were you. You can get 4 ohms. 600 per speaker is a total of 1200 rms between 2 subs, good as gold. Problem is the amp is 1k lol. Good luck cwis.

I'm keeping everything Kicker as I've been impressed with their quality and sound. And as you said before, a Kicker amp doesn't put out only 1000 watts. :tup:

Eventually I'll upgrade the speakers to newer year models too. But just making the weakest link the strongest link one at a time.

No, I do not run a cap. Your car battery is much stronger than any farad cap out there. I repair car-audio electronics and know for sure that caps have little to no affect. The are not a battery, therefore they do not provide reserve power. Their power is capacitative, however this burst/reserve is not meant to offset a chraging system or battery which cannot provide for the system adequately. Yes they act as a filter to ground, and sure they can help with some surge; but thats it. No ordinary person listens to music in burps of 1 second, which is about all that it takes to drain any cap with todays amps. A good battery or two, alternator, and "The Big 3" is better than any cap. Caps when used as desiibed in this thread are not a solution to a problem, and they are not a bandaid either - they are worse. They will not raise your charge or alternator voltage - which is the sole job of your alternator's rectifiers. In fact they will actually put more strain on your charging system. I dont care if its 1, 5, or 20 Farad; its not nearly as much as cold cranking Lead Acid reserve - even for my battery which has apparently seen better years. I'm sorry but Caps are such marketting voodoo. Now I'm sure I'll get some flamage but this is my honest opinion.

My stereo is 1400w clean, old school Soundstream Class A 10.0 and Soundstream MC140. They draw up to about 120A under their current woofer loads being 2x 8" subs running at 1/2 ohm, and a pair of door speakers. These amps are meant for purest detailed SQ but are also strong for some high listening S'Q'L. My MC140 gets hot enough to make your reflexes pull off of it - its working very hard to make great quality sound.

Back on subject: Its been two days since the trickle charge and still no TPMS light. I'm now 75% convinced I need a new car battery to completely satisfy the TPMS light issue.

I've been researching batterys, since I hear a lot of bad reviews on the Optimas from the past two years. Seems the best battery on my list now are ones made by Odyssey. A lot of off-road truckers, marine users, and it would appear any non-Optima junkied car audio enthusiasts like em. Odyssey makes Sears/DieHard Platinum series for $199. They have a 4 year replacement and a 10 year prorate. They are considered deep-cycle and made with Virgin-Lead plates. I can get one local, and in fact I even have a Sears coupon to make the price better.

Has anyone heard of Odyssey / DieHard-Platinum batteries?

Update,

So, my tpms light came up today, but my voltage did drop to 14.0. I'd say theres a chance the trickle top-off may have helped over the past few days, with the chance of it not resolving the problem for longer term.

Anyone know about Odyssey / DieHard-Platinum batteries?

Good batteries. :tup: Guys I 4wheel with. The 3rd Gen. Power Wagon group, all use these batteries with the winches. 15,000 lbs winches abuse batteies like you wouldn't believe. And these hold up better then anything we have tried.