I check my IAT's using cipher that came with my uprev cable. I may be able to check your out. It's diagnostic and don't think the license has anything to do with it, but I may be wrong. Either way Uprev is definitely a way to help with your issue. I can see the temps go up when I'm at a light, then after take off, I can see temps plummet down. Let me know and I can meet you somewhere and we can look at it.

to "tap"the 2012 cooler you would have to stack the sandwich plates as the only lines going to the oem unit are coolant. don't know if there is enough room for that and you would need a longer filter pipe that can go through both.

and roy'sz it would makes sense because while the coolant and oil temps would cross idealy u want the oil to be 200-220 which is engine coolant temp. the air cooler is to keep it from going over that for track use.

to "tap"the 2012 cooler you would have to stack the sandwich plates as the only lines going to the oem unit are coolant. don't know if there is enough room for that and you would need a longer filter pipe that can go through both.

and roy'sz it would makes sense because while the coolant and oil temps would cross idealy u want the oil to be 200-220 which is engine coolant temp. the air cooler is to keep it from going over that for track use.

lol that definitely would not work. Your coolant temp would increase when running your car hard because your oil temp is increasing. Just because you have 2 coolers doesn't mean you will effeciently cool the car off. the guage reads the oil temp before it flows through the engine. If you are tracking your car yes you do want the oil between 200-220, and thats where my z runs with my 34row cooler.

Please explain how you would think that having a) your engine oil as a heat source and b) cross flowing it with your coolant, which is also another heat source...and with both radiating off of eachother adding another cooler would help you maintain a 200-220 temp when pushing the car to its designed limits? I really honestly don't see it but would love to see how it could "Possibly" work.

Awesome! Are you going to be at Cars and Coffee tomorrow morning?

Unfortunately I have drill tomorrow. Sunday, I'm available, or next week cars and coffee.

It works because the radiator can shed a lot more heat than it's usually asked to (it has a lot more fins/rows/surface than even a 34-row oil cooler does), and the oil gets hotter than the water does. The problem isn't that oil<->water cooling doesn't work, the problem is just that the 2012 OEM sandwichplate cooler is too small and inefficient to get the job done.

AM Perf was running a custom oil<->water unit combined with an upgraded radiator in longer competition runs, seems like it worked for them. It's probably the better and cleaner solution in general. It will warm up oil faster, the oil lines are shorter and safer (oil<->water unit inside the engine bay, behind the radiator), less bulk/weight out at the tip of the car, etc.

I think Travis has been trying out some Laminova units: complete-oil-coolers-ec54 - oil-coolers - The Laminova heat exchangers - Laminova, but he's been focused on other issues lately. I really think with the right Laminova and an upgraded (e.g. CSF) radiator, you shouldn't need to run an extra Setrab core out front except perhaps in the most extreme of conditions (long races in the desert? I donno).

:iagree: Finally someone that gets it. It would be interesting to know what Doran racing is doing on their Conti Series 370z.

And for the record water will always be a better heat transfer medium than air. That's just simple engineering.

I don't disagree that a liquid to liquid cooler is ineffecient, but in the instance of engine coolant cooling down oil during a tracking condition or a canyon run is where my point is. I completely agree if you have a liquid to oil cooler where the liquid is a cooler temp than anything else.

The Laminova setups I'm talking about above are cooling engine oil (and/or other things in the case of dual coolers, e.g. trans fluid) using the engine's coolant. The coolant will be colder than the oil in any high-heat scenario for the engine. If the radiator can't handle the heat (water temp too high), you upgrade the radiator. If the transfer isn't efficient enough (engine oil still too hot, but water temp is fine), then you need more transfer (larger oil<->coolant exchanger).

We don't have enough data points to say anything definitely, but I'd be surprised if anyone runs into hard limits on this where an upgraded radiator and a larger Laminova unit can't handle their temps. I'd try it myself but I already have a working Setrab oil<->setup and I've got 200 other projects lined up before I get around to reworking my oil cooling, unless it becomes a problem.