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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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And to answer some of your question:
I have a Stage I SC from GTM making 100% claimed power GTM stated. I am sitting at 400whp and I started at 270whp bone stock. Not sure where you are reading or getting your information, but both Stillen & GTM have provided exactly whay they claimed with their SC kits. For 7k, 130whp is a pretty good bargain compared to other parts you can buy. You would spend easily 20k doing your NA build and honestly you will not see 500whp, 500 crank might be possible but then you are down to 450whp or less which makes for a horrible investment compared to what other options there are.
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#3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Honestly, this is kind of annoying. Any time somebody talks about an NA build they get bashed (maybe bashed is a bit extreme) for thinking outside the established norm. I have thought about it and will eventually build myself an NA motor. I have yet to see a build that cracks the engine open. All the NA cars I've seen are usually just bolt ons, not a full build in my book. Is it going to take a lot of money? Heck yeah it will, but whether it is worth it or not is strictly down to the owner of the car in question. Who knows what can be done until somebody tries it. Also, if you get done building the engine and it doesn't make the power wanted you could still slap on a TT and know that your internals are strong enough for a bit of boost. The biggest reason there isn't a proven route with NA is because most (ok nearly everyone) people go the easy route with a TT/SC (not saying it is necessarily easy, just easier than a fully built NA setup).
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#4 (permalink) | |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Skeeter, it is not us trying to put him down, the OP seems to be incorrect on some facts which might alter his choice.
On the topic of NA builds, I think it is because most people view the value of a TT/SC over a 20k NA build to reach the same point. Also, some of the parts needed will have to be one off parts at this point as no one is selling certain items yet. This limits who will jump into this boat which sucks for all Z owners, but it takes money.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Also, the 20k number used is a rough estimate based on basic bolt ons and some forged internals.
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#8 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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haha, you may be waiting a while, I want to pay off the car before i do something like this, which hopefully will be in the next year or so. I have found long blocks for ~$2k used through various junk yards. I would like to think some parts that would be replaced could be resold to save a little on the expenses, but I'm not counting on it. When I get around to it though, I plan on not stroking it out and possibly replace the VVEL with a cam (maybe use the VQ35heads?). My plan isn't for ultimate power gains though, rather I want to make as responsive an engine as possible and I think that by replacing the internal bits with stronger and lighter bits will aid me in that goal. I'm not entirely closed to the TT/SC option, but i want to see what can be done with a NA setup first. Then if i do go boosted the internals are more than capable of anything I would want to throw at them. Keep
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#9 (permalink) |
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Good points from all. I know if i wanted all out power, I would go with a TT from the start. I guess that's where I differ from most. I could care less if after I'm finished it has 300hp or 500hp, all I'll be looking for is revs
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#10 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) |
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"I don't know Karate, but I do know Karazy and I will use it!" lol
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#14 (permalink) | |
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#15 (permalink) |
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I'm going to go find these white papers you mention, I'm curious to see what they say. If you already have links or might be able to point me in the right direction that would be awesome. I'm off to google for a bit!
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