^^ Actually you CAN remove it.

I agree. Seeing as it is just a sandwich plate between the oil filter, with two inlet/outlet tubes, you could definetly just disconnect them and run new tubing to an aftermarket cooler. Unless I missed something further back in the thread.

That being said, my personal experience with the OEM oil cooler has netted me average driving temperatures of 200F, and an idle just a tad higher than that. Pretty good, imo. When I pushed it at the drag strip and let the car sit with little to no idle, the temperatures peaked 230 that night. Not bad at all for pretty much the worst condition it could be in.

Not unless you want to void your warranty.
Prior to year 2012 using an oil cooler would not void your warranty
unless the cooler damaged the car.

Now with Nissan adding an insufficient POS oil cooler in 2012 as they have,
you cannot remove it (part of the factory installed cooling system) without
voiding your entire engine warranty.

The dealer now has no suggested add'l cooling options for the 2012 model that will not void the warranty.

Nissan has effectively removed the performance experience from their performance car.

This is my 2nd new Z and will be my last Nissan purchase of any kind.

Nissan needs to get their head out of their ***.

dd v track
 

I've read somewhere that the 350's had the same cooler. I do not know
if the track group made an issue about that, they just added their XY-row
air cooler up front and put pedal to metal.

I would imagine a 'die-hard' tracker would remove 500 lbs of 'deadweight'
'stock crap', such as a/c, door locks, resonance plates, stereo, etc., and
that putting an cooler up front is standard.

Back to DD reality, with light city & sub-100mph hot days the issue for me is
that the oil is too cold! 212F is the reference temp for oil viscosity standards
but I can drive 25 - 32 mile one way and temp just crawls up to 200F.

Only seen 220 stuck in traffic for 15 mn, or highway backup for that time
after doing 75-95 for 10min. Still, that's just 8F over ideal, and with full
ester synth that should not be a problem.

The z is an optimized DD, if you want specialized track, just do it. I would
gripe about the fact that for the price, the HP needs upgrade about 100,
though with 2 more cylinders, the weight would reduce the w/p gains.

There's a lot of variance. I rarely see over 215* F in extended brisk driving on a 90+ F* day. Typical under those conditions is about 205* F. On the highway I might see 225-230* F in that heat, but never higher.

I did find that adding those arc cool fins to the bottom of the oil pain really helped bring down temps by as much as 10 - 15* F on the average. Looks and sounds ghetto, but the principle is sound -- it just adds metal fins to help disperse heat.

Works remarkably well, especially considering how simple to install (affixed with heat conductive adhesive) and how cheap (about 20 bucks a pack -- you can fit 2-3 packs on the oil pan and another 1-2 on the diff cover).

Was on the track last weekend (Roebling Road), and when I kept it in 3rd for a few turns, I noticed the oil temp got up to 260. I just changed to 4th going through the turns, and lowering the RPM was enough to drop the temp to around 240. When I did Road Atlanta in June, it stayed around 240 both days. I think if you are on a track that will keep you above 5500 a lot of the way around, you would need an external oil cooler, rather than the heat exchanger that uses the radiator coolant.

How did the install of the Z1 go?

Is there anything different that needs to be done on 2012-13 models since they come with the stock oil cooler?

The install went fine, oil cooler working too well with the stock cooler and 34 row cooler, I need a block off plate when driving when cold. At 35 deg or so, the oil temp is only 145-150!!.

The bolt on piece that's pictured below, I had to grind down the threads about 2-3mm. My sandwich plate would not stay on due to it being too long. (Pic below is generic)
http://www.hondaperformanceparts.co....ort_Length.jpg

Hey martin I have pics in my album of a blockoff plate that I custom fabbed. Look it up, it works well with extremely low ambient temps. Did you get the thermostatic adapter plate or the standard full flow?

I got the thermostatic adapter, I wanted less flow to the cooler. I will eventually get a standard full flow as I hear the thermostatic=more open to other parts to fail..

I've had my thermostatic on my car for 40k miles and no failure here. Don't see how it could create a failure when all it is is a controlled bypass from the oil filter.

Martin, are you running the Z1 adapter? I am curious if they changed anything specifically for the 2012+ models so that it fits better with the stock cooler.

Thanks in advance!

I am running the Z1 thermostatic plate, not specific for the 2012, so I am not sure if anything changed.....

I emailed Z1 to find out if anything was different and the reply I got was that for 2012+ their thermostatic plate works. It just needs to be clocked different.

I have the same 25 row w thermo plate and it was installed on my 2010 nismo and now it is installed on my 2012 with as he said, you have to clock it different. No problems yet and my temps on the track are 240 in the summer being very agressive!