yeah martin that is a plus, im not too sure though they have figured a way to incorporate the seperate setrab coolers with the existing one you have to get the quick warm up time on the oil. I know that it takes about 15 min for mine to warm up when I leave work goin down the freeway. For punishing purposes, I had the cooler and thermostatic plate attatched and went canyon carving last summer. I was high 2nd and mid to high 3rd for 25 min straight and I never breached 220*F. The setrab cooler is VERY effective at excavating heat.

Just to put in my two cents.

I didn't want to comment on this until I took mine for a spin is good weather on a hot day. Went for a cruise today with ZInferno and red lined a few times, regularly hit 5-6kRPM's and not once did I get over 220 oil temp. Was about 80 degrees outside.

For me the factory oil cooler worked fine. I can't comment on if it will work with F.I. but for stock it seemed to work fine for me.

What temperature do you think your coolant is? What you are seeing is normal. My z06 had the same type of cooler and at idle oil would hit 210 or so. Around town, similar, and on the freeway 195. Just like my 370.

No idea what the actual temperature of my coolant is since all I see is the dots. The coolant temp never rises above what appears to be one dot below the middle. Oil temps seem to have been a little more reasonable lately, but still keeping an eye on them.

Coolant in every car I have owned with real gauges is 190-220.

traffic temps v. hi-way, '12
 

Been almost 3 weeks, after a 2nd oil change switchingg to full synth 5/30, temps seem to heat up a bit more and faster, around 180F after 8 miles of light to medium traffic from cold morning start ( 60s - 70's F. )

210F w/ ambient in 80's after some miles. Of course any high air flow can cool an engine, under 4K there's no probs.

However, couple days ago noticed 220 with 20 min of low gears in city to highway traffic, high 80's, no a/c on; wondered if there was any cooler at all.

Optimum oil temp is 212F; that's when ideal viscosity is reached, and any water will boil out of oil. 220 not too bad if that's typical traffic limit with this cooler type, over 220 would be a failure imo.

If true that all the 350's had this water/oil cooler design, should expect its performance specs re: 370 engine heat to be fairly well known by now by Nissan at least; a 380RS Touge utube vid is from 2009; think that has a lower heat issue?

This is old news here/now, but spoke with Niss Consumer Service guy today after he needed a second day to contact mechanix and verify existence of an oil cooler for '12's, but had no info on specs, temp ranges to expect v. rpm and ambient temps etc; this should be in the owner's manual.

3 Niss dealer's in town knew nothing about cooler reality either.. maybe they should get onto this site.. I'll mention that to them next time; basically we're still in age when 1/3 of population is not computer literate.

I will be picking up my Z1 34 row cooler and Z1 powersteering cooler hopefully tonight/tomorrow and should be installing it on my 2012 on Sunday if I have time.

On the stock cooler, my oil reaches 260 at the track after 3-4 laps but it stays at 260 and never went past it even at 8-9 laps. I just don't feel comfortable with it hitting 260 now, and no idea what it will hit in the summer.

so when does the Z goes on Limp Mode? 280F or 300F? I drove my car on a 85 degree during traffic hours and it went up to 220F
:confused:

best bet if you go out to palm springs and toy around in some of the mountains out there you would have gone into limp mode. As previously asked limp mode is at 280.

It is complete CRAP.

And... You cant remove it.
only option is if there is a way to add another aftermarket over the top
of the OEM water cooled POS.

Nissan really screwed the pooch on this one...

^^ Actually you CAN remove it.

I agree. Seeing as it is just a sandwich plate between the oil filter, with two inlet/outlet tubes, you could definetly just disconnect them and run new tubing to an aftermarket cooler. Unless I missed something further back in the thread.

That being said, my personal experience with the OEM oil cooler has netted me average driving temperatures of 200F, and an idle just a tad higher than that. Pretty good, imo. When I pushed it at the drag strip and let the car sit with little to no idle, the temperatures peaked 230 that night. Not bad at all for pretty much the worst condition it could be in.

Not unless you want to void your warranty.
Prior to year 2012 using an oil cooler would not void your warranty
unless the cooler damaged the car.

Now with Nissan adding an insufficient POS oil cooler in 2012 as they have,
you cannot remove it (part of the factory installed cooling system) without
voiding your entire engine warranty.

The dealer now has no suggested add'l cooling options for the 2012 model that will not void the warranty.

Nissan has effectively removed the performance experience from their performance car.

This is my 2nd new Z and will be my last Nissan purchase of any kind.

Nissan needs to get their head out of their ***.

dd v track
 

I've read somewhere that the 350's had the same cooler. I do not know
if the track group made an issue about that, they just added their XY-row
air cooler up front and put pedal to metal.

I would imagine a 'die-hard' tracker would remove 500 lbs of 'deadweight'
'stock crap', such as a/c, door locks, resonance plates, stereo, etc., and
that putting an cooler up front is standard.

Back to DD reality, with light city & sub-100mph hot days the issue for me is
that the oil is too cold! 212F is the reference temp for oil viscosity standards
but I can drive 25 - 32 mile one way and temp just crawls up to 200F.

Only seen 220 stuck in traffic for 15 mn, or highway backup for that time
after doing 75-95 for 10min. Still, that's just 8F over ideal, and with full
ester synth that should not be a problem.

The z is an optimized DD, if you want specialized track, just do it. I would
gripe about the fact that for the price, the HP needs upgrade about 100,
though with 2 more cylinders, the weight would reduce the w/p gains.

There's a lot of variance. I rarely see over 215* F in extended brisk driving on a 90+ F* day. Typical under those conditions is about 205* F. On the highway I might see 225-230* F in that heat, but never higher.

I did find that adding those arc cool fins to the bottom of the oil pain really helped bring down temps by as much as 10 - 15* F on the average. Looks and sounds ghetto, but the principle is sound -- it just adds metal fins to help disperse heat.

Works remarkably well, especially considering how simple to install (affixed with heat conductive adhesive) and how cheap (about 20 bucks a pack -- you can fit 2-3 packs on the oil pan and another 1-2 on the diff cover).

Was on the track last weekend (Roebling Road), and when I kept it in 3rd for a few turns, I noticed the oil temp got up to 260. I just changed to 4th going through the turns, and lowering the RPM was enough to drop the temp to around 240. When I did Road Atlanta in June, it stayed around 240 both days. I think if you are on a track that will keep you above 5500 a lot of the way around, you would need an external oil cooler, rather than the heat exchanger that uses the radiator coolant.

How did the install of the Z1 go?

Is there anything different that needs to be done on 2012-13 models since they come with the stock oil cooler?

The install went fine, oil cooler working too well with the stock cooler and 34 row cooler, I need a block off plate when driving when cold. At 35 deg or so, the oil temp is only 145-150!!.

The bolt on piece that's pictured below, I had to grind down the threads about 2-3mm. My sandwich plate would not stay on due to it being too long. (Pic below is generic)
http://www.hondaperformanceparts.co....ort_Length.jpg

Hey martin I have pics in my album of a blockoff plate that I custom fabbed. Look it up, it works well with extremely low ambient temps. Did you get the thermostatic adapter plate or the standard full flow?

I got the thermostatic adapter, I wanted less flow to the cooler. I will eventually get a standard full flow as I hear the thermostatic=more open to other parts to fail..

I've had my thermostatic on my car for 40k miles and no failure here. Don't see how it could create a failure when all it is is a controlled bypass from the oil filter.

Martin, are you running the Z1 adapter? I am curious if they changed anything specifically for the 2012+ models so that it fits better with the stock cooler.

Thanks in advance!

I am running the Z1 thermostatic plate, not specific for the 2012, so I am not sure if anything changed.....

I emailed Z1 to find out if anything was different and the reply I got was that for 2012+ their thermostatic plate works. It just needs to be clocked different.

I have the same 25 row w thermo plate and it was installed on my 2010 nismo and now it is installed on my 2012 with as he said, you have to clock it different. No problems yet and my temps on the track are 240 in the summer being very agressive!

Being a warranty master... Brother, you're kinda wrong... Yeah tampering with the cooling is a no-no, but if a dealer says that they're going to void your warranty because you took that POS off, you need a new dealer who is mod friendly.
When the shít does hit the fan in any scenario, revert to stock, but there will be no real evidence this thing was uninstalled.
50% of members have an UpRev tune... THAT will void your warranty, why worry about a factory "oil" cooler

Has anybody tried getting an aftermarket radiator (i.e. CSF) for 2012+ to fix oil temperatures? A better radiator should mean lower water temps with which to cool the oil(water cooled oil) and lower oil temps.

Water temps will get up to whatever the stock thermostat is set to. You just might slow it down some. The arguement here is, can the coolant keep the oil cool enough?

Why bother, just add another cooler.. I added a 34 row cooler+have stock cooler..

The thermostat is where the water leaves the engine, so it will always leave the engine at (approximately) the same temperature (assuming on/off operation). All water has to go through the radiator before it re-enters the engine (and the oil cooler). So a better radiator should mean the water entering the engine (and the oil cooler) will be cooler and better oil cooling performance.

I assume the water routes through the radiator to the oil cooler before it enters the engine. Is this correct? or does the oil cooler take water exiting the engine (which seems dumb to me)?

I was going crazy wondering what that was on my car and wondering if I could piggy back my race parts wholesale kit on it so it sounds like you can:tup: Do I need to buy an extra adapter?

The single pass csf dropped oil temps by 10-15 degrees in normal driving when it was installed. Unfortunately, it appears that I will get to try out a 3 pass too.

No idea what it would do on a track. That said, I was pretty surpised at the difference. It pretty well suggests that if you want to run on track seriously, you should probably get a bigger radiator AND an oil-air oil cooler.

O

How did u add the 34r cooler with the stock cooler on th e 2012 370z?

Easy, just install it like every other.