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Originally Posted by ban25 I had a wheel sensor replaced, but that didn't fix it. Waiting to get a more detailed diagnosis now. This thing has cost me three track
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#1 (permalink) | |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Do you have any mods on your car? I'm running EcuTek, though I have not had issues with it until now. I also just got my calipers rebuilt, but again, I had those inspected after the incident.
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#3 (permalink) |
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I checked the DTCs with EcuTek and got the following:
C1109 Nissan - Battery Voltage ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) power voltage is too low. C1107 Nissan - Front Right Sensor 2 - ABS Wheel Sensor not installed currently - ABS Wheel Sensor rotor or encoder damaged - ABS Wheel Sensor rotor loose on axle - Faulty ABS Wheel Sensor - ABS Wheel Sensor harness is open or shorted - ABS Wheel Sensor circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty ABS Control Unit
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#4 (permalink) |
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Turned out it was my front right wheel bearing that was in need of replacement. You might want to check your's to see if it's the same issue.
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#5 (permalink) |
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I had this happen once and it was the c clip on the axle stub letting it pop in and out over bumps enough that the sensor was going nuts. $1.80 for a new c clip later and it was gone. wheel bearings and brake fluid levels do it too.
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#7 (permalink) |
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I caught it at just he right time. It would happen to me when i gave it power in a turn over a bump so i did that in a parking lot and as soon as it came on i stopped the car and got out and checked and i had to push the drivers side stub flange back in about 1\8 inch til it clicked in. Replaced the snap ring and it hasnt popped out since.
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#8 (permalink) |
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I forgot another thing that can do this is getting an alignment done or taking the steering wheel off and not reseting the 0 position on the steering angle sensor.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Awesome! I noticed when we changed the hub on mine that there was a difference between my old 2009 hub and the new part from Nissan. The new hubs appear to be sealed on the inside, probably to keep out dirt and debris. I plan to change the others out as preventative maintenance.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Ok I'll test it out.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Not on this car. Just add brake fluid and be done with it.
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#14 (permalink) |
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One thing I noticed about my clutch fluid....
When I use the expensive redline synthetic my fluid gets dark really quickly around a week, but when I use the cheaper Valvoline which is what I normally use it remains clear for months. I flushed the redline and went back to Valvoline and no issues so far ![]() |
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#15 (permalink) |
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What kind of Redline fluid did you use?
It doesn't explain your experience between the different fluids, but I've battled the clutch hydraulic system in this car extensively. Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.
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