I bring my own oil and filter and have an oil change shop drain/fill mine. I use what ever quality filter I can find Mobil or K&N usually. I have been running nothing but Amsoil and it doesn't burn an oil with nearly 9K miles.

I can't imagine that Mobil 1 would hurt anything. I worked with a master mechanic in FT Worth that used would save the Mobil 1 from one particular custumer. He was an retired Navy Admiral that babied his 350 and changed it every 2500 or earlier. The tech would run it in his souped up GTP Grand Prix. Then save it run in his wife's CTS. for 3K each. He never had a problem. The first time it was drained it still looked like new. The second time it was still golden.

My experience in my 09 was castrol edge. When I purchsed the car it had nissan ester. When I switched to castrol edge, I noticed my temps were lower by about 15 degrees and the engine sounded smoother.
It seems the oil that has been proven by others on here to be the best is royal purple. Some have even claimed hp increases with RP. I will be trying RP for my 2011 when I hit 5k miles. Though I ran mobil 1 in everything except my G37 and Z. I wouldn't recommend it on the Z only because so much conflicting info. Better safe than sorry. From research I like the following three as safe choices;
1. Royal Purple
2. Casrol Edge
3. Nissan Ester- only because its OEM.

Royal purple has more conflicting info than any of them so that is a moot point.

Tell ur master tech to stop being a chiseler and buy new oil. Why wouldn't u run each car for 5-6k on fresh oil vs draining old and filling another car. Sounds like this guy just didn't give a f about his wifes car.

He has forgotten more about cars that most us will ever know.It is advertised as 15K mile oil. He was taking it out of a pretty new car. Putting in a 50Kish mile motor then in his wifes car. For a total of 9K of use on the oil. He was getting good oil for FREE. He knew all the cars involved a how they were driven. It wasn't that risky. I am not saying it is a good idea for everyboy to do this. I was just making a statement as to what a very good mechanic thought of Mobil 1.

I am a new (2000 mile) 2011 Z owner. I just replaced the factory oil with Mobil 1. The normal oil temperature before the change was 205, but now runs at 220 during regular driving. I was expecting an oil temp drop changing to synthetic but instead got the 15 degree rise. Any ideas why this would be and is it OK given the oil temperature issues I have read here? Knowledgable responses would be appreciated.

^^ likely unrelated. You might see drops in oil temps going from old oil to new, but you'd see that no matter what oil you changed to. Not clear why yours would rise given the assumption that the ambient temps and humidity were more or less the same as before. In any event, 220 is nothing to worry about.

Just so long as you're using a synthetic oil with the correct viscosity you're going to be OK. I personally use the Wal-mart brand, SuperTech full synthetic oil on my personal cars. We won't void any warranties if you car comes in with Amsoil, mobil 1, Redline, RP, or any other synthetic oil so it's just personal preferrence. Main thing is to change it on time.

You won't be able to do much "spirited driving" with that temp that high before goin into limp mode. Oil doesn't effect the tempature of the engine as far as going from nissan's oil to mobil 1. I thought that same thing but the Z's come with a ester based oil from factory and mobil one claims to have ester in there oil. If you research you will find that Mobil 1 full synthetic is a ISLAG GF-5 and Nissan runs a ISLAC GF-6.

actual ECU controlled "limp mode" doesn't kick in until around 270-280. I've had plenty of spirited 10-15 miles drives where I started at 220 and ended at 240 or so. I've come nowhere close to limp mode and I live in Texas.

That said, some people (myself included) have noticed at times some sluggish low RPM response when the oil is > 220. I don't know what that is, but it isn't limp mode.

Hey Z QUALITY......interesting note you wrote about voiding warranties. You "indicated" that a full synthetic is required to not void the Nissan warranty, however, my Nissan dealer's normal oil change for my new Z is regular, non-synthetic oil. I have free oil changes for life as part of my purchase, but paid an upgrade difference for the Mobil 1. My dealer didn't even offer the Nissan, ester-based, synthetic oil everyone talks about. My dealer/service manager thought my whole conversation about oil was pretty silly.

Not to be a stickler ....Ok I'm being a stickler ... but Z Quality never "indicated" that synthetic is required for warranty. He said if you use synthetic, you won't void your warranty which is true -- (assuming the synthetic meets the viscosity and other requirements outlined in the warranty document). You are also right that any oil regular or synthetic will not void the warranty as long as it meets their specifications.

:tiphat:

Indeed, Synthetic is not required at all. This thread was about different synthetics and that I why I worded my reply the way I did. Youc an use any oil that you choose. We don't care if it's Castrol 20W50 or Redline 0W20. All that we ask is that you change it regularly. Beyond that, it's personal preference on what oil you choose to run. I personally stick with the recommended viscosity and run SuperTech synthetic in my 2011 Nismo.

Hey Guys....sorry I misread Z Quality's reply....obviously, I'm just learning, but trying to do the right thing.
Another question....5W30 is the specified oil for the Z, but I keep reading about the advantages of other viscositys (sp?) such as Mobil 1's 0W40.....what do you guys think about this?

Follow the recommendations in your Owner's Manual. It's far better advice than you'll get anywhere on the internet unless you have a specific use for your Z other than normal day to day driving and occasional spirited driving. 5W-30 covers a broad range of outdoor temperatures so don't get all hung up on what is the best oil for the Z - because there isn't any one best oil! It's personal preference and dino oil is perfectly fine for your Z. For now, use 5W-30 until you educate yourself on the types and usage for different weights of oil.

Btw, to answer your question - is Mobil 1 bad? You should rephrase the question and ask if anyone has lost an engine using Mobil 1 that was directly attributable to the oil breaking down during normal use. I have not heard of anyone and I will continue to use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles.

Truth in Advertising: BP v. Royal Purple

Been posted before, but just a little food for thought on royal purple...

That is because your car is retarding the timing to make the car sluggish. This was brought up in another thread on this site. It took me less than 2 minutes to get from 235-260 doing some canyon carving in the high deserts here in cali. A.T. was 103 and when i got into palm springs it was 116. I was able to do about 70seconds worth of wide open throttle going up this canyon road and it shot up to 260 in no time. I had to baby it for the next 20 minutes to get her to cool down. I too did notice it getting sluggish.

This is from Mobile 1:

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...Ester_Oil.aspx

:iagree:

It seems that all of our cars have unique quirks or characteristics. My car heats up to 220 fast, but is slow to rise to higher levels. I've certainly never hit 260. Perhaps the 'verts -- being less aerodynamic -- get more air running through them. Also, temps were not hitting 116 -- though they were pretty close this summer ...

Also people mean different things by "spirited driving" I've never kept my revs wound up to 7k for 15 minutes straight ... more like 4-5k spurts on the twisties during my Lime Creek Drive runs

You need to figure out what you are going to be doing with your car and then pick the "correct" oil for that application, ie. track whore only car, dd, semi dd and part time HPDE etc.

When in doubt, just run the manufacturer's suggested viscosity, ie. 5w30.

FYI, I run mobil 1 0w40. :stirthepot:

mobil 0w-40 if you intend on keeping it forever; otherwise save your money.

I'll probably catch grief for bumping an oil thread, but I just put in M1 0W-40 (changing from the Nissan magic oil) and a slightly larger filter: -9E000. The car has a little over 5000 miles.

Note: I'm not a Mobil fanboy. In fact, I've never put M1 in any of my vehicles. Rotella and Amsoil for the ATV and Sportbike, and good old Castrol GTX in "Maxine" for the last 140,000.

So far, I'm very impressed. I specifically remember the feel and sound after my last oil change, as it was part of a consumption test as well. (Passed it, so no new short block for me.) The Z sounds about the same, but the feel seems to be a little smoother, especially the revs from 5000-7000+.

The car seems to run about 10 or so degrees cooler as well. Even after the last change with the Nissan stuff I was still running 220 or so no matter how slowly/smoothly I drove. Any acceleration above what's needed for normal driving would drive it up to 230+ quickly. Today, the temp is 82 and sunny, humid as well, and I haven't seen anything near 220 all day. My temp now stays between 200-210 no matter how I drive the car. I took two trips to redline plus a lot of stop and go with the AC on, and the temp freezes at 210 and won't climb any higher.

I realize new oil will usually lower temperatures, but I certainly didn't see this kind of drop with the last change. I hope it lasts until my next oil change and I'll continue to put in M1. My $.02.

I'm sure everyone will appreciate your feedback, no worries about bumping this thread.

I will question when you made your last oil change. You state that the M1 0W-40 runs cooler than the last oil you ran, but I have a very hard time believing that the ambient temps are the same now as they were then. It's October now, so that would mena you changed the oil last in June or July. Not really an apples to apples comparisson in regards to oil temps since the average temp in July in Georgia is about 1 million and it's 75 in October.

If you wouldn't mind sharing some info on temps. What are you getting in winter and summer with both extreme temperatures?

The only thing I don't get in this entire thread is that some people are saying 0-40 is Mobil's only true synthetic. According to their website, all of their oils are now full synthetic.

What gives? :confused:

^That is a completely true statement. BUT.....some oils are ranked differently than others. Example: Mobil 1 super 5000 is a ISLAC GF-4 oil and the Mobil 1 regular synthetic is a ISLAC GF-5. I wouln't say that 0-40 is a "true synthetic" in comparison to a 5-30 because all you are measuring against is the weight of the oil

Excellent point, and I should have prefaced the conditions of my last oil change.

The first oil change on the car was around 2000 miles, in April of this year. The temps were in the high 70's, if I remember correctly, and humidity was fairly low. That's what I'm basing my comparison on. Basically the same conditions existed then as they do now, and the temps were always around 220.

The last time I went to the dealer (before yesterday) was to have the oil consumption check, sometime in late August. They had to add about a half a quart of new oil and I only had 1500 miles since the last change. The temps outside were in the low 90's, but it was the week of Hurricane Irene, and the humidity was fairly low. I drove from Atlanta to Ashville, NC, where the temps were in the 60's to low 80's throughout the time I was there. Through the entire trip, whether on the mountain roads or cruising the highway, I never really dropped below 215-220 range. On curvy, fun sections of the road the oil temp would reach 230-240 fairly easily. Then, back on the highway, I'd drop back to 220.

Like I said, if the lower temps last then I'll keep going back to this oil. I need to drive more to see how it responds as the oil ages. I'd test it a little today, but it's in the 50's, and that's not an apples to apples experiment. Then again, I may just have a giant placebo effect going on and my car was trying to trick me for a day. ;)

^^^I once read on a thread here that there was a guy that was able to get his car up to limp mode in 50 degree weather. Now he was tracking it which was a different story than yours teddy but just a fyi.

I don't doubt that for a second.

If you go onto some of the oil websites they will explain why it's the only tru synthetic oil mobil makes.bobstheoilguy is one of many.

I will do that, thanks for the site, but on the quick, how do they get away saying they are all fully synthetic if they are not?

iirc, mobil 1 at some point in the past switched out the type of base stock they were using (ie. cheaper to save $$) and still said mobil 1 was a true synthetic. There was a lawsuit brought against them by other oil manufactures and mobil won.

The only oil they make that still uses the "better" base stocks to create the finished product is 0w 40. Hence it's consistently better wear analysis vs. other mobil 1 oils overall over many different cars etc.

Ah, so they cheapened the mix. Interesting. Like corporate honchos and accountants forced the engineer's hands to save a buck.

Thanks for the down and dirty of it. :tiphat:

Although I must say, I think the oil vs oil thing is a bit over rated anymore. If you are tracking this car then yeah, I might be concerned. But for us normal daily driver sorts, I think the Mobil 1 5-30 will do just fine. It might not take this car to a million miles, but it will get it to 250,000 for sure.

^ I know somone who has run 5-30 for 170,000 on the 350 and only had to change a thermostat. Other than that still tickin....

Sticky goo?
 

During my first 1800 miles (factory oil) I noticed that on the chrome exhaust tips, there was a sticky, gooey, tar-like substance that accumulated at the inside of the bottom of the tip. Everytime I noticed it, I would clean it off but noticed that it kept coming. I changed to 5W30 Mobil 1 at 1800 miles and now the gooey residue has disappeared. I can only assume that the oil change made the difference...and, wonder what else that "goo" is on between the engine and the outside world.

Anyone else notice this?

BLASPHEMY!!!!!! If you don't run Mobil1 0W-40 after the first oil change then your engine is going to explode from accelerated wear in less than 10 miles!!!!

I really really think too many people put WAAAY too much time into thinking about this. The basics you need to know are, Change your oil on time, use a decent oil and filter, and take care of all the other regular maintenance items. Do this and the car will live a very long time.

HAY GUYZ!!! What is the best air filer to run on my 370Z? The guy at Autozone sayd Spectre is the bomb dizzles!!!! K&N SUCKS! NIssan filters are made to blow ur engine!!11one

/\ exactly.

My ester oil kick your mobil oil's arse!

http://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/bruce.gif

I think you should stick to dedaf....im just sayin:shakes head: