Oil type and temp Questions (houston area)
 

I bought the 09 370z yesterday. This is my first "real" car after driving handed down 4x4 suvs and farm trucks.

I understand the oil temp issue, knew going in. I'm a recreational driver, not planning on taking the car to a track for anything serious or at all. Just enjoying the car on the streets. I'm seeing oil temps from 220-240 just driving around town and highway with ambient 60-70. Oil cooler is the top of the list, right up there with a radar detector to hopefully keep from paying the christmas bonuses for the troopers.

Questions- as a decidedly NOT diy kinda gal, anyone have a suggestions for where I could get an oil cooler installed in the Houston/College Station area? I'm leaning toward the smaller Stillen. Also- after seeing single digit days last winter, should I be putting in a sandwich plate even though this is a warm climate most of the year? Would that answer change if I were to move to a more temperate or cold climate?

Oil type-- Car was purchased used (25k miles). At that point is it a poor choice to change oil type? If not, what oil should I be running in it?

Also--- apologies if my clueless blonde shows through here, when getting an oil change how mindful should I be post-cooler install about a dealer or shop putting the correct amount of oil in it? Do I need to be more mindful of where I have my oil done? Good mechanic vs dealer vs jiffy lube and the like?

Apologies if this has been answered before, wasn't at all successful in searching.

Thanks in advance!

check out Z1 motorsports. they have a 19, 25, and 34 row Setrab coolers in a kit that you can customize.

sounds like you need at least a 25 row.

oil, ohhh man/woman....... thats a can o' worms you dont want to open. for me i used either Nissan ester or Redline ester oil for the first 20k miles. if you dont change it every 3k miles MAX it breaks down bad. im now using pennzoils new full synthetic oil. after 5k miles the differance im seeing is negligable and might be related to this gosh awful heat here in texas.


yes your search skills arnt very good. :P

oil cooler install...... hmmm if i HAD to pay someone else to do it id go to baker nissan and be done with it. but ill save my money and do it myself.

:iagree: with the Z1. I have installed a 25 row cooler w the thermal adapter and have not seen temps over 220. It's a little high but well worth the money!

I live here in cali and i see similar heat that you do and i can tell you that 220-240 is what i had before my cooler. The z1 kit is legit and the 25 row probably would be good without a thermo plate. I got a 34 from nissan north america and witht he ambient temp 63 outside my oil temp dropped to almost 155. I got the thermostatic plate and fittings on order so it will consistantly run at 180 at night. It won't affect it during the day as far as the thermostatic adapter plate. Definitely be more mindful of where and what type of oil you are throwing into this car. I use mobil 1 full synthetic and can tell the difference from that oil to nissans ester based. Not sure what im goin to do yet but from seeing 3k religious oil changes kinda frustrating. Oil cooler will help with the life of you oil, depending on how much you "get on" the throttle and toy around.

I always reccommend a 34R but if your sure your only doing recreational driving go for the 25R at least and get it from Z1. Great customer service. Also get the heat shrink sheaths they offer to protect the lines and even then you will want to buy some heater hose to wrap the lines even more in areas that lay directly on metal (crash beam, sub frame).

Baker Nissan huh? They tell me they don't do such things. (install or service involving aftermarket)

Which would be a shame since they were really good with my suv.

You can do it yourself it's really easy.

Can you elaborate? As I am in vegas we had 20 plus straight days of 100 or higher temps, z spent some days in the garage. However, winter is right around the corner. I have been debating between 34 and 25 but really haven't read enough. Any feedback is appreciated.

I'd get the oil changed first and then check what sort of temperatures you are reaching in normal driving conditions before springing for an oil cooler -- especially since you don't plan to track it or anything. Just changing the oil dropped my oil temps down from ~235 to just under 220 on my commute home (around 15 miles 1/2 highway) with temperatures in the triple digits. Note this was also a switch from regular oil to Mobil 1, but I'm guessing the lowered temperatures have more to do with the fresh oil then switching oil types ...

In general, I'd only really be concerned about 220-240 if I needed to go more than 3-4k between changes.

I have the Stillen 19 Row Oil Cooler installed. I will not be tracking the car, just like yourself. I enjoy spirited driving, but not racing on the track - too much liability to take on myself without my Insurance Company backing me up. but I digress...

I live in Covington, Louisiana - a suburb of New Orleans (North Shore of Lake Pontchartrain), and right now in the morning, I am seeing ambients of 56 degrees. I drive about 7 miles to work, and that is NOT enough for my oil temps to climb to at least 180°F. I actually have to idle the car, and then drive in 4th or 5th gear just to keep the revs up to get the temps up... In my honest opinion, a 19 Row is more than you will need. I am already considering blanking the cooler up with some sort of plate so as to get my temps up in the cold weather. The "Sandwich plate" will come standard with the kit, so you'll have to install it anyways. I did not see an option for a thermostatic plate where I ordered mine, so getting one on your car may help in cold weather to get the temps up. That was a mistake I made and will have to live with it.

Oil - Change it at a reputable Mechanic shop, do not use the Quick Lube/Jiffy Lube, etc. I have heard and seen enough horror stories, I am sure you have as well. Use synthetic oil, and change every three months or 3000 miles with a good filter - a FRAM or a PureOne. That is cheap insurance. I really dont care to stretch the oil to its fullest. That's like burning a wire to save a fuse. I use 10w30 Valvoline Synthetic - about $29 for 5 Quarts at Walmart. The filter is about $6 or $7. Again, that is cheap insurance.

Hope this helps.

As much as this is a simple thing, I do not have the space, tools, time or knowledge to actually do this. I'm not comfortable taking apart the front end of my car and putting it back together.

I know cars, understand how they work and I can drive them. As a fairly small girl this isn't something I'm willing to tackle myself. I'm fully capable of changing oil or, in theory, a flat, but that's where hands on ends for this chick. Considering I'd have to jump on the wrench to stand a chance of getting a lug off my truck and you'd probably not even break a sweat... easy is relative.

Much prefer to take car+part to someone who knows what they're doing and spend a little extra to have it done.

I would contact nissan consumer affairs and see if they can help you with the dealership doing the install and what not. Or ante up the 650 for the cooler and pay some shop around there to install. Whatever it is that you decide to do make sure you get the mocal thermostatic adapter because it keeps your baseline oil temp at 180 REGUARDLESS of fresh oil or type of oil. Some people think synthetic oil runs cooler than mineral but that is not the case being that there is no way to cool the oil. My temps were 220-240 and now are 190-160. Waiting on my fittings and time to install the mocal adapter plate. I "stood" on the throttle for 30 minutes of mountain driving and my car only got up to 225 and it was 105 that day. So yeah hope this info helps. :tiphat:

if your oil cooler is too big, you are going to overcool the oil. a thermostat isnt going to help. sludge forms easier below 200f, there is a reason why most modern cars have the operating temperature higher.

Then why do they sell them at z1? Why do they sell them at gtm? sludge forms when oil gets too hot also. :shakes head:

To make money and make a living?

You might want to take some chem classes and see how oil works before you preach about how great a giant oil cooler is for a street driven car. :tiphat:

Oil can operate safely below 200... I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing the motor below 170 though. It will take longer to heat up with the cooler even with the thermostatic plate. The plate is never fully valved off.

Some people on the forum have cars that run at 180 without a cooler so you don't need to be over 200. Obviously you need to find a happy medium because even though a 34 row can cool faster, you are going to have issues warming up the engine under normal driving conditions if it isn't warm out. See modshacks DIY, he had to make a block off plate and I think he only used a 24-25 row. I might need to do the same when winter time comes (although I won't be driving the Z much in the winter).

Modshacks writeup is a litte different from mine but you check out my writeup for different options.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...off-plate.html

hahaha, i used to test oil in the navy smart guy. maybe you should do some research online as far as what could cause sludge build up on oil before you go runnin your mough. also being that i got a 34 row cooler is an obivious sign of more mods to come and a cushion for the amount of heat my car will be putting out. :tiphat:

I thought so, I know that the lesl extreme heat you have on your oil can equal a longer life span of the oil. Not by much but it is noticeable. Before my cooler within 1500 miles my oil was gettin pretty dark. I have that amount on now and it is starting to change color a bit. How long witht he mocal plate are you talking warmup time? I let mine run about 15 min and it gets up to about 160. With a little street driving it gets to 175 and when I hit the freeway coming home at night it plumits. I got the mocal just waiting on the fittings to arrive.

I'd say 5-10 to get up to the 160+ region @ idle, I just take it easy until the engine is warm when I am driving...

You just want to make sure your operating temp is sufficient not your idle warmup time. Every car needs time for the oil to warmup, cooler or not... general public doesn't wait for their car to get to operating temp before driving.

The sandwhich plate will keep your flow lower until you reach 180. If your not reaching 180 under normal driving conditions that could signal that you have too big a cooler and need to make a block off plate since your not even getting the effectiveness of full flow.

I would bet that the extra qt to qt and a half is enough to already dissapate some of the heat before you even get to the cooler.

yeah I agree with that. Has anybody tried swapping out the spring on the mocal plate to allow for more a slight amount of more heat? My problem is i work nights so I see both sides of the coin where as most people drive during the day to and from work. I think its funny coolant only takes 2 minutes but oil seems forever. How much oil is on the dipstick at the high mark? The dealership filled it to that level and i thought it would be a great place to have it so I can track oil levels for issues like burn off. And you are right about that added quart.

Are you guys really warming up your car for 5-15 minutes before driving? That's some tough love man -- most modern cars need little to no warm-up time in normal weather and perhaps a minute or so in cold weather.

Don't mess with the spring, if it is below 180 it isn't opened anyhow so you won't notice a benefit... there is no way to fully close the system (and I'm not sure you'd want to have old oil just sitting in the cooler not rotating). If you are really overcooling switch out to a 25 row or do the blockoff plate. I am sure you will get track enthusiasts on the site that would be willing to trade up to the 34 in exchange.

I defiantly warm mine for at least 15 to 20 minutes being I have a oil cooler and oil pressure gauge. The gauge has let me see some high pressure up to 130psi when the oil is cold or even at 150 degrees when going down the road at 2.5K RPM's. But as soon as temps hit near 180 degrees it doesn't go past 90-95psi.

So that being said and having a oil cooler I feel it's best to let it warm for who knows how much an aftermarket oil cooler fittings can take over time at those pressures. If it was just the motor I wouldn't think much of it.

If you are really letting it idle for 15 to 20 minutes before driving, you may be trading wear from overheated oil for wear related to unburnt fuel in the intakes and the host of other issues that accompany long periods of engine idle -- idling is not good for the engine.

There's a bunch of discussion of this on the interwebs, but this is a pretty good synopsis

Warm up the car by idling › Dr Karl's Great Moments In Science (ABC Science)

College Station huh? You sure your car is not on fire?


Seriously, run your car for a few thousand mile before doing anything. I've seen several people say that after breakin, cars run a bit cooler and use less oil.

In all honesty I feel the article is driven towards being an environmentalist. Which nothing is wrong with that. But I fail to see how it could be that detrimental to engine wear. If any it's mild, especially with our modern day motors and the technology behind them. It's no big deal for me.

I'll take over idealing over a blown oil cooler line fitting.

I'll let it sit for 5 min but really not much more unless I am checking for leaks or simply doing something else.

I did notice the enviro-bent, but I don't think that was the thrust. Most of the major points relating to wear I posted in that quote.

The general consensus nowadays is that the old conventional wisdom of letting the car reach operating temperatures via letting it sit and idle doesn't apply to most modern cars -- gentle driving until proper temperatures are reached is better for the vehicle in general.

Having an oil cooler may put you in a different situation if you need to worry about excessive pressure blowing fittings

I wish I could do that but its in the 60's at night and it takes a lil while to go. Too bad they didn't have something similar to a cold weather package where you just plug it in and the oil warms up on its own. Something like 100 or 120 deg heaters.

The whole kit was for free so I think i'll keep it lol. When exactly does the solenoid start to open on the mocal? The way I understand it, is that the valve starts to respond to the warm oil and it starts to close. Thats what creates or is supposed to create your 180 degree baseline for the adapter. If I have this wrong by all means break it down for me because Z1 kinda confused me a little bit and i've been tryin to get my head wrapped around it. I know its simple and im goin to end up goin"OOOOOh" lol.

I don't think anyone knows when it "starts" to open and close... it is a 180deg thermostat so I think Mocal would try to convince you that it simply opens around 180. I have heard they are surprisingly accurate though. Assume that you always have partial flow and somewhere between 175 and 185 you have full flow.

Maybe in CA 60 degrees sounds cold but in NJ that is pretty damn warm lol. I think the point is that even when the oil is at 40 degrees you can still drive it, just be easy on the motor until it warms up that way you can be sure to have efficient lubrication. Normal driving on an ice cold engine won't result in failure or excess wear on a newer car, just keep it rational until the temps rise.

Those cold weather packages are "generally" on diesels because they need a higher starting temp to get the engine fired up. The Z wouldn't really get much benefit from them (plus who wants an outlet coming out of the front of the car).

When I spoke to the guy at z1 he said that the thermo starts in the open position and makes its way towards closed? I looked at the adapter and the pin is seated way back, you can barely see it in its housing. It would be awesome to have a little more info on this just as a fyi ya know? The 60's is warm and thats right about this time of year but in late semtember we start getting the cold nights and where I live in cali it does get to the hih 30's at night. I also agree that it would be an ugly sight plugging your sports car into the wall hahahaha. My dad did come up with an interesting idea and that was to grab a AT radiator. Being that it is a cross flow design to run oil lines from the mocal to that. Not sure if it would work or not but it would shorten your warm up time by 75%, but not too sure about that one. I kinda like keepin my stuff seperate.

:shakes head:

I'd just get the little 19-row if you're never going on a track. It will hold up to TX weather fine with that. Technically you're probably fine even without a cooler. On the worst summer days you might hit 240 on the street driving kinda recklessly, but that's really not a huge issue.

If you can, I'd recommend learning to do your own oil changes (and to check and change the other fluids on the car yourself as well). It only requires a minimum of tools, knowledge and effort, and frankly nobody (not the dealer and certainly not jiffylube) really cares about your car more than you do. Eventually they'll do something stupid or criminal out of haste (not use the oil you asked them to, not change the filter, over-tighten the drain plug, maybe even leave the drain plug loose so you dump oil later).

If you're really unwilling to do your own oil changes and really feel you need a cooler, IMHO your best option for worry-free maintenance is to have a Nissan dealership install the Nissan Motorsports oil cooler package for you, and have that dealership do all of your oil changes as well. Then there's only 1 party involved: if anything goes wrong, the dealership has to deal with it and cover it and there's nobody else to point a finger at.

Re: the Mocal questions, I called them a couple of years ago when I bought my thermo plate, I've posted this like 3 times on different threads here somewhere:

The Mocal starts with both passages (oil cooler + bypass) open. The thermostat closes the bypass passage gradually over roughly the 175-185F range. So at 185+, basically all of your oil flow is forced through the cooler. Under 175, most of it takes the bypass route (least resistance), but a small amount will still flow through the cooler as well since the passageway is open (and this helps warm up the cooler and lines themselves, so it's not a sudden temp shock).

There is a 200F degree spring available from Mocal as an alternate to the 180F spring.

The Mocal always allows at least 10-20% flow to the cooler so in colder climates it can be impossible to get the oil temperature above 160F for months at a time unless you have long idle times. That is why many are using a block off plate for the winter.

If I were to do over, I would have paid an extra $50 for the 200F spring.

damn $50 just to increase to 200F? yikes

soooo im starting to rethink my oil cooler needs. normal driving here in sugar land/houston area im at 210-220. then when i get "spirted" haha it reaches 240-250. then quickly goes back down to around the 220 mark. i dont plan on tracking the car anytime soon but this horrible heat doesnt look like its letting up soon either.

i understand 200-220 is a great temp to drive at hard, but im at that temp while i putt to wal-mart...:\

what do yall think?

200F mocal plate
25 row oil cooler

I got a 34. It takes a while to warm up. If you plan on modding your z then the 34 is worth the investment. My normal driving was 220 before the cooler and it would skyrocket to the 260's in no time. It would take forever to cool down even runnin the heater with the windows down lol. I didn't know that they had a 200f spring, anyone know the torque requirement for the fittings on the adapter? Im goin to be installing it this weekend or next and needed to know.