I'm going to start checking my level more often

Well I bought mine used so I didn't have the luxury of properly breaking mine in. Adidasboy had my car previously. I don't know if any of you knew him but there is a chance he drove the car like a bat out of hell from 0 miles up to 16,000 when I got it.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-w...ml#post1568911

That's what the dealership just told me.

So the problem is z don't like Mobil 1 oils.
I'm planning to switch to Mobil extended performance.
So in this case I should rethink about it. I'm using Mobil 1 extended performance for my Lexus is350 for couple of years but no issue or problem at all. Is there anyone of u guys using Mobil 1 had same problem????

It could be just pure coincidence but that is the exact oil that I use.

There's nothing wrong with Mobil1 EP. It's a fine oil. We can argue all day in oil threads about the tiny differences different advanced synthetics have for specific applications, but the bottom line is that Mobil1 EP is a great oil and won't cause any major problems.

You're probably right but I won't be using it anymore but that lingering thought will always be in the back of my head. I'm movin over to Redline.

I respect all of u guys ideas. But honestly. I trusted Mobil 1 ep because I never got any problem of the oil or anything. Beside my dealer recommend me if I don't like ester oil or plan to do my own. Then go with Mobil 1 because ester oil as good as Mobil 1. Correct me if I'm wrong. I bought the car from Mossy Nissan on I-10 Houston, tx

I heard once u switch to Mobil 1 ep then u can't use diff oil. Is that right?

No, you can switch. I think Mobile 1 is a great oil, but I would just get an Ester based oil like Redline. If you're going to do it, do it right.

Most of everything you and Mossy are talking about is just standard oil myths, don't sweat it. M1 EP is a very good synthetic, and any good synthetic is probably *better* for the car than the dino/ester mix in Nissan Ester oil. You can switch brands anytime you want. If you want to be anal about it, you can do a very short change interval when you first switch.

Personally, I run Motul 300V, and some others use Redline's Synthetic, both of which are also good synthetics and happen to contain significant ester content. I suspect the 300V formulation is a really ideal oil for our engine, but it comes with caveats: on top of being pricey per quart to begin with, it doesn't deal well with long change intervals and/or high humidity, making it even more expensive to use it properly (it's more hygroscopic than competitors, meaning it will suck humidity out of the air and ruin itself via acidification over time faster than competitors). It's totally not worth the $$ in general, especially on a street-mostly car, but I use it anyways.

Alright folks this thread was not to be discussing what oil is bad or good.

Lets keep it to the topic Killer had originally opened it for.

And if it can't be done? I'll just close it.

Thanks

Whether oil choice is a contributor to consumption is pretty on-topic IMHO :P I don't think it is, given a reasonably good quality synthetic oil, but it's certainly a valid thing to ask about.

Anyway will going to place a order from hyperfuel.com n they got special for feb. free shipping for all redline product. 137+tax per case equal of 12 quarts. Whoever need redline oil. Should take advantage of free shipping. That's good enough for me for next 3k miles or 3 months. Thanks to all the inputs guys!!

Let's back to topic about bee's!!!:)

I ran on Mobil1 for the first year, and was burning 2 to 3 qts. between changes. No visible leaks on engine, and no spots on ground.
Switched to Nissans Ester the second year, and was exactly the same.
I did the TSB consumption test. It failed, and the dealer replaced the short block, and no issues with all my mods.
I've gone back to Mobil1. Completed the break-in period on the new block, did an oil change, and it hasn't lost a drop.

As there never was any visible signs of oil loss, I'm guessing the rings never seated properly with the first block, for whatever reason, and the oil likely burnt off and went out the tailpipe.
Seems this was mainly an issue with us guys anxious to get out in the first 370's in '09.

This sounds like the most sense I've heard all night!

I'm not a gear head no insult meant but imho our cars or at least the small percentage that is have these burning issues just doesn't sound right.......

iv'e got an 09 with 37,000 never has burned a drop as i knock on wood....
but i do still check it at every fillup........

does anyone know if the motors nissan puts in the v8 altima's and maxima's
which i think were the ones used in the 350's have this oil burning problem.
just wondering..

the VQ has been notorious for burning oil since at least the DE

I thought it all started with the 2006 VQ uprev.

odd... mine is at like 3500 miles since last oil change and it hasn't consumed much of anything if any at all? 0_o

makes one wonder how the VQ keeps winning award after award each year.

Because it's single handedly keeping us occupying the middle east and giving beuracrats something to do! :bowrofl:

Im currently at 17k and have not had any oil issue's in fact for the past 3 Reline oil changes? I have yet to see the need to top off.

I do my oil changes at 5K intervals.

Mine is a Jan build of 09

This seems like owners didn't properly break in their vehicles.

I intentionally left off the countless Canyon Runs thru Mulholland hwy, Malibu, Ojai, GMR, And Angeles Crest hwy :bowrofl:

Redlining constantly is nothing new for mine so my low milage is really deceiving as you know now ;)

I beg to differ. I bought my '09 brand-new, and broke it in very carefully. It has burned about 1-qt every 2000 mi since it was new. Just had the short block replaced under warranty at about 34,000 miles (known TSB). Some of these cars are lucky, mine was not.

--ZOM

They don't factor oil consumption into rankings....

But they do factor in efficiency...

switching to a thicker oil because your car has bad rings really isn't a solution, it will just make different problems.

do the consumption test by the book, then go get a new short block under warranty.. :)


what i've heard... these motors had bad rings... 350 did, then they fixed it... 370 did, then they THINK they fixed it. any factory that has a TSB about engines eating oil and replaces blocks without argument, is pretty much admitting there is a problem.

16k on mine and no abnormal use of oil. I do put a tad in between oil changes but nothing crazy. Even if your motor has a problem using oil it should never get 2-3qt low, dont you guys check it often?

I will now!

My consumption's still fine at ~26K miles now on my 2009, but I'm not part of the TSB VIN range either. Re: break-in, that's one of those famous internet argument things where you'll get 500 different answers, but IMHO you don't want to just baby the engine for the first several hundred miles or you'll *cause* oil consumption problems. You'll wear down the scoring on the cylinder walls before it's done its job on the piston rings. Prepare yourself for thousands of conflicting opinions if you google that issue further though. TBH, I wouldn't be surprised if all modern engines are fully broken in at the factory anyways, and the note about break-in is just to get people to take it easy on a new car to get time to learn how it handles, and avoid more-serious incidents if there was a major factory defect.

My car same as the vin number described. N build 10/2009 but this will be my first oil change by myself. Will keep my eyes on it. Beside dealer didn't say anything when I got my oil change there like 5 times already. I car currently 18k miles.

Most dealers have their most inexperienced techs working on oil changes. They most likely do not pay attention to the oil drained, much less care about how much oil is coming out of the pan.

The best thing you can do is just keep an eye on it- try to check the oil level every couple thousand miles at least. Remember to let the car sit for at least 15 minutes for the most accurate reading.

My 350z I put 4.7 quarts in when I changed every 3500 miles with amsoil syn and I barely lost a drop... It filled back up 4.5-4.6 quarts when I drained.... Amsoil has a little meter on the side so its easy to tell this...

Do you change your own oil? If not I wonder if whomever filled it up topped off at around 4.5 and since you went longer maybe you roughly burned 1 quart every 2500 miles?