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slight color change and the smell sold me. Just because the oil isn't black doesn't mean it isn't burnt.
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Do a Google search on "370z oil temps bearings" and the very first hit will take you to an article that explains all this in detail. The second link explains it as well.
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#7 (permalink) |
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i have one of these. unless its 80 degrees outside it actually works TOO well while driving normaly. if its kinda chilly outside, and im driving on the highway at 80mph it wont even get above the lowest reading on the guage "140" i think.
but at the track, ive never seen it above 210 with the kit, using royal purple. and thats going balls to the wall for multi lap. downside imo is that it cost me 1100 with installation........ |
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#8 (permalink) |
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You should really put a blockoff plate on your cooler in those conditions. Driving around on too-cold oil is bad for the engine, too, especially if you push it hard at those temps. I usually shoot for a 180 minimum before I ask the car to work very hard, and I don't think I'd be comfortable even on a low RPM highway cruise if I couldn't sustain at least 160. If you're off the bottom of the gauge who knows how cold it is really.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Hi all..New to the forum. I understand that the 2012 370's have a "small" oil cooler adjoining the oil filter. this arrangement is found on other Nissan models. Any one know of this & could it be "retro'd" to my 2011? Thanks roddyracer
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#11 (permalink) |
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Thanks mate giving about oil cooler kit details, my pervious kit was not working properly. Therefore I can try this.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Dang, wish I would have known all this when I set out to buy my used 40th...probably would have just spent a few grand more to grab a 2012 sport touring. I would call "spirited" street driving in mine 75% WOT but most of the time I'm still shifting around 5500, rarely redline it. I am constantly at 220*F and it's only 50*F outside right now. Summers in KC can bring a month straight of 100*........
Guess that means I'm going to chase down a 25 row with thermostatic plate, even though I have a different car for the winters. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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You are better off with an aftermarket full blown oil cooler versus this little sandwich plate water cooled oil cooler. Look at Z1 25 oil cooler for the best.
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#14 (permalink) |
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I am in OKC and think I will get this one. I will track the car mostly at Auto X but sometimes at the local 1.3 mile track. Still not sure if I am going 25 row or 36 row. Up here it gets to 100 degrees 30 days or so a year at least it has last couple of years. There are also days where it gets into the 30's and 20's so I will certainly need the thermostatic plate.
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#15 (permalink) |
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I'd stick with the 25-row. I'm doing 30-minute HPDEs down in the SE TX area and I'm still on a 19-row. I wouldn't recommend anyone installing a 19-row in a hot climate, but it does just *barely* do the job on the worst days. 25 should be fine. I'm still dithering about what I'll do for my next set of cooling upgrades. I still find the idea of a direct oil:water heat exchanger interesting. Probably less mass and less hoses, faster warmups, etc. Just tricky to sort out the exchanger and upgraded radiator sizing.
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