High idle, rev hang, bog after alignment??
 

I had put 150 miles on my new springs so I figured it was time for an alignment. The independent shop got everything to spec but when I started the car, I noticed the revs wavering between 900 and 1000 rpm.

Usually my car idles at 650-700 without a/c running. About 750-800 with a/c on.

The rpm seems to hang longer when I clutch in to upshift or when coming to a stop.

There is also a very noticeable bog when accelerating between 2000rpm and 3000rpm in all gears where the power just falls flat.

I called the shop this morning to ask wtf they did to my car and was assured they didn't touch anything under the hood. I have heard that some alignment shops disconnect the battery during service which might cause some of my problems temporarily. Its been about 40 miles though and these issues haven't improved at all.. Still high idle, rev hanging and low rpm bog. Ideas?

What idle speeds do you all see with a/c on and off?

Do you have the Sport Package?

As i run a auto shop we dont even go under the hood as all adjustments are made under the car....so something coincedental has happened.

Check your air filters. Your symptoms are similar to my car after my garage got real dusty and it clogged up the air filters a bit.

TreeSemdy, it has sport pkg

Buddahson, air filters look fine

Now this scares me but maybe I'm overreacting:
I just hooked up my code reader and in the 'live data' it says,

Clr Dist Miles: 64
Warm-up DTC Clr: 5

Which would mean it has been 64 miles and 5 warm up cycles since someone cleared the codes. I never have cleared any codes and the car hasn't seen a dealership since I drove it off the lot. I did get an UpRev tune but that was at least 250 miles and many warm-ups ago.
:crying:
I think someone ferris buellered my car.

It would also say that after a battery disconnect as the emission system gets reset.

I have the same issue since 2008 , i tried to solve it but no luck.
Its happend when my car gets hot.
I think its somthing related to the coolant heat & ECU (bad signals).

I'm thinking that is what happened and the gentleman I spoke with just didn't know the shop's alignment procedure or forgot.

I now have same problem. have no idea what it is. It just started all of a sudden. now for a week. it idles at 1k. with A/c off. so frustrating. I have reinstalled intakes to make sure. every bolt on exhaust. everything. i cant figure it out. argh..!!!!!

Any CEL codes?

Could be a leak near the primary O2's -- will cause all sorts of havoc.

Going with what Jordo said, check for stored codes and an intake leak. Luckily for me, my issue healed itself after about 200 miles lol. But I have stock intakes.

Which one is the "primary 02 sensor" driver side or passenger side ? any body else having the High Idle Problem?

Generally, problems with these symptoms are going to be an intake problem of some kind. Some general pointers:

Check that your filters are ok, and all through the intake tract that nothing's loose or leaking (joints/fittings in the intake tract, PCV hose connections, EGR vacuum connections, MAF sensors, etc).

Ditto for the exhaust: if some of your exhaust bolts have rattled loose or a gasket has burned out and caused an exhaust leak, it can cause minor tuning problems as well.

Clean the MAF sensors. It's a very easy job. Buy a spray can of MAF cleaner at the auto parts store. They come out with two tiny bolts each, just spray them down from all angles and let them air dry a few minutes. Do not touch the part of the MAF sensor that's normally inside the intake with your fingers, or to anything else. Just hold it by the wiring harness connector. Do not over-torque the bolts when re-installing, they're tiny weak bolts and you can snap them.

If the ECU has likely been reset recently (battery disconnect, fresh tune uploaded, etc), you may need some drive time for things to settle down.

If the ECU has been reset, and/or you've made any changes to the configuration of the intake tract, it wouldn't hurt to re-do the Idle Air Volume learning procedure. You can do this at home by some careful timing of the ignitions switch and the gas pedal, it's detailed in the Service Manual on pages EC-18 through EC-20 (you may need to do the 2 referenced simpler procedures first to re-learn the throttle close position and the gas pedal zero position).

The 370 has ESC, which a proper shop will recalibrate after an alignment per Nissan's factory recommendation, as it reads steering angle, yaw sensors, abs, etc.

Many shops do not have this technology, or do not know it is necessary, but a diagnostic tool is required to do this recal on a 370z. Some guys think unhooking the battery will reset it. I don't have Nissan's procedure in front of me, but unhooking the battery is ONE step in the Toyota procedure, but it is not the only step.

It is also common to disconnect the battery, so the brake lights don't kill it, as the brakes are locked for the majority of the alignment process.

I think you have to go through a few drive cycles before things get back to normal.