CEL p1148

omg35s · 06-21-2011, 12:04 PM

Unfortunately, I am stuck with a Performance's Shop mistake.

Read More here : Vinny Ten Racing

They replaced my Stock cats with aftermarket performance ones and managed to break what I believe is the Air fuel ratio sensor 1.

From the service manual:

P1148, P1168 CLOSED LOOP CONTROL

P1148

Trouble diagnosis name
Closed loop control function (bank 1)

DTC detecting condition
The closed loop control function for bank 1 does not operate even when vehicle is driving in the specified condition.

Possible cause
Harness or connectors (The A/F sensor 1 circuit is open or shorted.)
• A/F sensor 1
• A/F sensor 1 heater

Can someone chime in and tell me what this means? From the looks of it my Air fuel ratio sensor (bank 1) needs to replaced? Is this the Air fuel ratio sensor that is located on the passengers side header?

How easy is it to replace this sensor? Can I DIY?

Thanks

1slow370 · 06-22-2011, 05:59 AM

that is not the lower sensor in the test pipe that is the sensor up by the exhaust manifold check to make sure the wire isn't cut or melted. the front two sensors are the A/F sensors the rear two are sensors for the cats and they don't effect the closed loop, open loop control. they should have wrapped a a fiber glass heat blanket around the area before torching up there as there is almost no way to not burn something or used a small cutoff grinder with an extention arbor or flex shaft. probably burned up the end of your wiring harness or yes melted a 560 dollar factory 5 wire wideband sensor passenger side is bank one, pull the HFC, an O2 wrnench that looks like a crows foot(the tool not the bird) from an autoparts store for 11 dollars, reach down from the top unclip the wire connecter, and puth the crowfoot socket on from the bottom and crank it out with a ratchet, use antisieze reinstall, then reverse removal for the rest, would take about 2 hours for a shop

omg35s · 06-22-2011, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

that is not the lower sensor in the test pipe that is the sensor up by the exhaust manifold check to make sure the wire isn't cut or melted. the front two sensors are the A/F sensors the rear two are sensors for the cats and they don't effect the closed loop, open loop control. they should have wrapped a a fiber glass heat blanket around the area before torching up there as there is almost no way to not burn something or used a small cutoff grinder with an extention arbor or flex shaft. probably burned up the end of your wiring harness or yes melted a 560 dollar factory 5 wire wideband sensor passenger side is bank one, pull the HFC, an O2 wrnench that looks like a crows foot(the tool not the bird) from an autoparts store for 11 dollars, reach down from the top unclip the wire connecter, and puth the crowfoot socket on from the bottom and crank it out with a ratchet, use antisieze reinstall, then reverse removal for the rest, would take about 2 hours for a shop

Thanks for the elaborate response. Seems like you know exactly what you're talking about. I wish you were in my area. heh...

What's this $560 5 wire wide-band sensor? Is that the front oxygen sensors on the headers? These sensors should be no more than $100-$150 each. That's for the part itself without the 2 hour labor...

Thanks for the details on how to remove and install a new sensor. It seems like it would be a much easier process if you could remove and install a sensor from the top. This would save a lot of time without removing the HFC/TP but I'm assuming there isn't enough room.

Also, you seem mechanically inclined. Do you have any input on the fuel lines that are next to the passengers side cat's? The mechanic had set the rubber that covers them on fire and then bandaged it up with heat tape. Should I be worried? I was informed that the lines were steel and I shouldn't have any issues...

Truly appreciated your help.

Thanks

ChrisSlicks · 06-22-2011, 12:05 PM

The sensor itself is only $150, but if the harness on the other side of the connector is damaged then you're in trouble which is what he was referring to.

omg35s · 06-22-2011, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

The sensor itself is only $150, but if the harness on the other side of the connector is damaged then you're in trouble which is what he was referring to.

Thanks! I'll definitely be taking a look at that.

1slow370 · 06-23-2011, 07:01 AM

the widebands dropped in price? courtesy lists it a $338

ChrisSlicks · 06-23-2011, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

the widebands dropped in price? courtesy lists it a $338

Aftermarket NTK part, the Nissan ones are ridiculously expensive considering they don't even make them (rebadge).

06-21-2011, 12:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
omg35s Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: New York Posts: 63 Drives: XXX Rep Power: 15	CEL p1148 Unfortunately, I am stuck with a Performance's Shop mistake. Read More here : Vinny Ten Racing They replaced my Stock cats with aftermarket performance ones and managed to break what I believe is the Air fuel ratio sensor 1. From the service manual: P1148, P1168 CLOSED LOOP CONTROL P1148 Trouble diagnosis name Closed loop control function (bank 1) DTC detecting condition The closed loop control function for bank 1 does not operate even when vehicle is driving in the specified condition. Possible cause Harness or connectors (The A/F sensor 1 circuit is open or shorted.) • A/F sensor 1 • A/F sensor 1 heater Can someone chime in and tell me what this means? From the looks of it my Air fuel ratio sensor (bank 1) needs to replaced? Is this the Air fuel ratio sensor that is located on the passengers side header? How easy is it to replace this sensor? Can I DIY? Thanks

06-22-2011, 05:59 AM	#2 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	that is not the lower sensor in the test pipe that is the sensor up by the exhaust manifold check to make sure the wire isn't cut or melted. the front two sensors are the A/F sensors the rear two are sensors for the cats and they don't effect the closed loop, open loop control. they should have wrapped a a fiber glass heat blanket around the area before torching up there as there is almost no way to not burn something or used a small cutoff grinder with an extention arbor or flex shaft. probably burned up the end of your wiring harness or yes melted a 560 dollar factory 5 wire wideband sensor passenger side is bank one, pull the HFC, an O2 wrnench that looks like a crows foot(the tool not the bird) from an autoparts store for 11 dollars, reach down from the top unclip the wire connecter, and puth the crowfoot socket on from the bottom and crank it out with a ratchet, use antisieze reinstall, then reverse removal for the rest, would take about 2 hours for a shop __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 06-22-2011 at 06:05 AM.

06-22-2011, 12:05 PM	#4 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	The sensor itself is only $150, but if the harness on the other side of the connector is damaged then you're in trouble which is what he was referring to. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

06-23-2011, 07:01 AM	#6 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	the widebands dropped in price? courtesy lists it a $338 __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50