They both use the same Setrab Oil coolers, the only thing that made me go with Z1's is it is a few dollars cheaper. Everything bolts on, you have to drill one hole, thats it. Its a very easy install all around.

No, I don't remove the oil cooler or take off the lines for oil changes. I just drain the oil normally. Too much of a hassle, and then you have to worry about potential oil leaks every time you reinstall the cooler lines...the residual old oil will be fine.

I wouldnt consider it a "residual" amount. Its one full quart. Maybe thats just me?

If you haven't read....
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...es-inside.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...face-down.html

If that just sucks the oil out, with out draining the pan. Crap, dirt, gunk, metal shavings, will not be removed from the bottom of the pan! Not good!

And a good portion of that will be in the lines, which will trickle back into the main system by gravity if your cooler fittings are facing up. My way works for me. Do what makes you feel comfortable or what you think is right.

Z1's instruction's have the fittings facing up. That is how mine are currently.

My fittings are facing up...as for gravity plaing a role, I dont agree. Yes the pan sits lower than the cooler, but oil would have to magically be pulled upwards out of the oil cooler in order to drain into the pan or stay in the lines. The way the lines are routed, a section of line is higher than both the sandwich adapter and oil cooler (up out of oil cooler, around passenger side frame rail, into sandwich adapter, I dont think very much oil will still be in the lines once the Z is turned off. Itll drain into the pan or into the oil cooler.

I dont mean to be argumenitive, just simply saying, i feel like the cooler should be drained, due to the fact that there IS at least 1 qt of oil in it. Thatd be like doing an oil change without an oil cooler, draining 4.25 qts and leaving the rest in the pan. Then adding new oil to the remaining old oil.
Just giving everyone something to think about :)

We've all thought about it, and many of us aren't concerned with it. do whatever makes you happy.

On my personal Z's, I pull the oil cooler off every 3rd or 4th oil change to flush it out and refill it (or I do when I am prepping my Z for a track event...but since time has been limited here lately, track events have not been as frequent).

We recommend that the fittings to face upward simply because of concerns we all shared about oil starvation caused by the oil running out of the core.
Oil will drain out of the core whenever you turn the engine off and oil pressure is relieved. This will in turn cause a few things to occur:

1. The core will be drained each and every time
2. Excessive oil will fill up the oil pan
3. The oil pump will now be forced to prime the oil cooler and lines each and every time you start the car.
4. Air pockets will be likely (or possible) to form in the core.
5. It will be difficult, if not impossible, to achieve an accurate oil level reading.
6. When your engine is forced to prime the oil cooler and lines, it is then taking away vital oil pressure from critical engine components.

With all of this said, we believed that the additional hassell of having to periodically remove the core and flush it was far less costly and risky as opposed to flipping the core upside down (to facilitate easier oil changes).

The fittings are made of aluminum. I HIGHLY recommend using vaseline or some kind of lubricant whenever you are re-assembling AN fittings. Keep in mind, you are forcing aluminum against aluminum. In time, without some sort of lubricant, it will wear out the fittings and could create a leak later on down the road. A lubricant will prolong the life of the fittings, and make life easier.

ValidusVentus...you are correct. Our kit does NOT require you to move or alter the OEM PWS cooler. Even our upgraded Transmission cooler (soon to be released) still functions with the OEM PWS cooler and does not require it to be moved or modified. At the same time, all of our kits are mostly BOLT ON and require little to no drilling. Our upper oil cooler bracket does require drilling of the center core support brace, but it is optional (although highly recommended).

Each Setrab Core volumes...for those of you who are wondering...are as follows:

6 Series 19 Row 0.40 QTs
6 Series 25 Row 0.55 QTs
6 Series 34 Row 0.75 Qts

For the Z1 kit specifically, you are looking at roughly 0.34 QTs for the -10 AN Lines.

Great points Dustin. Repped.

I finally install Z1's SS clutch line. Great firm feeling now. Love it.

I still think sideways mounted is the best of both worlds, I mentioned it here. If you routed the lines upward just higher than the core (unlike gozfast's pics in that thread) it would be no different than top-mounting the fittings, with the added benefit of being able to drain and fill the cooler in place, via three way adaptors at both fittings.

hmm Dustin,

My fittings are fitted at the bottom and I get a lower reading on the dipstick when it hasn't run than when checking it right after shutting down.

I assume that has to do with the Thermostatic Sandwich Plate being closed or open during hot and cold periods? Not sure.

That's interesting Mike. My experience has been the opposite. I spoke with the Mocal guys who said they guarantee the oil will backflow through the sandwich plate if the cooler fittings are down. There are no check valves and the sandwich plate is always at least partially open. Installing the oil pressure gauge was my end-all solution to know if I was too low on oil.

The whole 'priming every time' issue doesn't worry me a bit. First, the prime takes a fraction of a second. Second, any air is forced out since the system runs between 15 and 100psi. Third, the oil coats the engine and provides immediate lubrication unless you've let the car sit for a very extended period of time.