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Looks like a PCB with tactile switch, but just 2 wires coming out? You may want to test the wires again or even solder it back on. Also ring out

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Old 06-17-2011, 08:09 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Looks like a PCB with tactile switch, but just 2 wires coming out? You may want to test the wires again or even solder it back on. Also ring out the two pins to double check the correct switch pins.
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks; What is the difference between a tactile sw vs a momentary sw?

What do you mean by ?
Quote:
You may want to test the wires again or even solder it back on.
Are you talking about shorting the wires ? or soldering them back to the NAV's switch?

ALso what do you mean by the below?
Quote:
Also ring out the two pins to double check the correct switch pins.
Thanks,
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Also in the switch i m not sure if you got to enlarge the image to see it.. but

there is a small tactile(?) button that is soldered to the board.. and then 2 wires that are soldered on the board that connect to the wire from the back of the NAV..
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Old 06-17-2011, 01:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hard to type on phone haha.

The navigation switch cable goes to the PCB, and it is 2 wire, right? Momentarily "short " these wires to see if head unit responds.

The s-mode switch should have more than 2 pins. You need to figure out which 2 pins is the actual switch. The other pin lights up the backlight LED.
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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ok will try this when i can open the car again.. prolly tomorrow or sunday

Thanks,
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:39 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Oh BTW, forgot to elaborate. The tactile switch is the one described on the PCB, and the momentary is like the S-Mode switch. It pretty much does the same thing, but in a different form.

Hope you get it squared.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:22 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
Oh BTW, forgot to elaborate. The tactile switch is the one described on the PCB, and the momentary is like the S-Mode switch. It pretty much does the same thing, but in a different form.

Hope you get it squared.
I am going downstairs now... to try this again...

- first will try to short the wires to see if the NAV responds?
if this works I will try to connect the s-mode switch to those wires... from the back of the NAV... to pins 2/3...

What do you suggest if the NAV does not respond when I short the wires?

Thanks,
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:47 PM   #23 (permalink)
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ok, this might be BAD

when I tried to short the wires... nothing happens .... but it gets worse...

I spliced the wires that I had cut going from the back of the NAV to the PTT switch.. (the pcb from the picture attached earlier..)

and tried to use that switch and still nothing... not sure what I killed in this process

please help.
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:06 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Is there a setting in the head unit to enable voice command? Does the cable plug in?
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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There is no setting that I am aware of... plug and play..... the pin is a 3.5 mm jack that plugs into the back of the HU....
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Old 06-18-2011, 06:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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It's just a sensing wire. I don't think you broke anything, unless you actually fed power to the 3.5mm jack. In other words, one wire has an internal pull up when "floating," and the other wire is ground.

Did it work before?

Get a multi-meter and measure voltage. Plug the black probe to chassis ground. Probe each wire. You should get some sort of voltage on one wire, and 0V on the other wire (assuming it's ground). If you get nothing on both wire, then it might be the 3.5mm cable (looks like headphone cable). Do a continuity check from the 3.5mm plug to the ends of the wire to make sure the cable is good.
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Old 06-18-2011, 06:36 PM   #27 (permalink)
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yup it used to work before...

so one of the wires on the PTT is ground?
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:56 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Its just an assumption since I have not worked on it. Check the 3.5mm is still good by doing a continuity check. Then plug it back in and measure voltage at the wire end. Gotta make sure the navigation switch is working before continuing the mod.
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:44 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I did a continuity test between the 3.5 MM pin and the wires on the other end of it...

but no luck...

so I have one end is the pin and the other end are 2 wires.. I tried a few combinations to do the continuity test but it failed...

Any suggestions on how I should a continuity test with 3 ends (2 wires on one end + the end where the 3.5 mm pin is..)

Can i get a mono 3.5 MM pin from radio shack and do some test with it.. then connect it to the S-more switch and then connect it to the back of the kenwood ?

something like : 2.5mm Mono Male to 3.5mm Stereo Female Adapter - Cables To Go

Thanks,
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:50 AM   #30 (permalink)
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figured it out with the help of a co-worker!! the wires have a coating on them so the current was not flowing!!

now my question is..

I have 2 other wires/ pins that are from the back of the s-mode button, 1 is for ground and the other is for illumination...

do I need to connect the ground? I do plan to tap the illumination into the hazard light sw...or would there be another place where I can top the illumination from?

Also is the ground required for this switch? would it be better to have? since the kenwood switch did not have it?

Also is there a non -trail -n error approach to figure out which one is ground and which is illumination?

Thanks,
Jay
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