Originally Posted by olddudesrule Thanks for the heads up ^, but Jsolo came through immediately. On the subject, I'm looking forward to getting the spring installed to see exactly what
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06-06-2013, 12:49 PM | #451 (permalink) | |
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I use to think exactly like you are right now, and what got me to remove my spring was the fact that I drove my friends car and it felt natural and when I got into my Z again, it had to relearn the clutch I already know how to drive on because it was very numb. I'm also not a newbie at driving manual, I drove 5 cars with manual transmissions, all of which were different but none of them were like the 370z(heck my friends 1g talon with a stage 4 racing clutch had more feeling than my 370z) I recommend you remove the spring and give it a shot, and if worse comes to worse, you can always put it back on if you don't like it. |
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06-06-2013, 12:59 PM | #452 (permalink) |
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If you wanna remove the spring I would suggest to change it with the 20% one. There are few threads about this. If you feel like a big boy, I HIGHLY recommend RJM pedal
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06-06-2013, 01:18 PM | #453 (permalink) | |
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I think the bigger issue at play is the small friction window in this clutch design. Great for the track, but really keeps one aware during street driving. Other performance cars i've driven such as the wrx sti had a larger friction zone window. While this can be remedied with a different clutch or the RJM pedal, after 18 months, i've more or less gotten used to it. To get smooth shifts, more focus is required while driving, so less attention is spent on distractions In fact, the small friction window may be perfectly fine for the 370z, nissan chose to duplicate the drive line for the G with no significant changes, which is not a sports car by any measure. So we're both stuck dealing with the same issues. They did omit the SRM from the G version.
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06-07-2013, 08:17 PM | #454 (permalink) |
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I think everything we've commented on is true, to one extent or another. I'm looking forward to installing the lighter spring, and seeing what difference it makes. Here's to experimentation!!
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06-08-2013, 02:28 PM | #455 (permalink) |
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Ok, Jsolo sent the spring fast, got it last night, and just installed it. Took about a minute, start to finish. The longest part was finding something in the garage (ended up with a piece of PVC pipe) long enough to wedge the clutch pedal down against the front of the driver's seat.
Popped off the c-clip, wedged the pedal down, pushed out the bottom pin only (came out smoothly), removed the entire spring assembly (top hat and top hat spring too), removed big spring, replaced with new spring, slipped it back on, reinserted bottom pin (went right back in), released clutch pedal, and reinserted c-clip. Could have only been easier if I was getting a back rub at the same time.... Heading out in a bit to see how it feels...... |
06-08-2013, 03:04 PM | #456 (permalink) |
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Alright, first test drive after install. My impressions are, while I can't feel an 80% drop in spring tension (my understanding is, the replacement spring provides only 20% of the tension of the OEM), what it does provide is simply a bit better feel for where the friction of the clutch plate on the pressure plate picks up. On our stock clutches, this friction zone is near the top 25% if the pedal travel, and that seems to be a harder area to manipulate slowly and accurately with your foot/leg. For that reason, I obviously felt it improved the clutch pedal feel in initial vehicle movement from a stop in 1st, and in the 1st to 2nd shift. Definitely noticable, but I'm sure a switch to the RJM adjustable pedal would be a greater improvement. I have to say, for $17.00, you can't go wrong.
Anyone expecting a totally new feel will be disappointed, but if you want a bit better feel with clutch engagement, especially from a stop (annoying stall, anyone??), and from 1st to 2nd, then IMO, it's worth the cost and minor effort to install. If you have at least one hand, and decent eyesight, you can handle it... |
06-09-2013, 08:58 PM | #458 (permalink) |
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I installed this spring within a few weeks of getting my car and it helped my engagments. The oem spring always seemed to want to "pop up" right when the clutch began to catch causing me to buck. About a month later I did the diy to lower the oem clutch pedal slightly and between the two mods I am pretty content with the clutch.
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06-09-2013, 10:47 PM | #459 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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07-15-2013, 03:00 AM | #461 (permalink) |
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Fixed it
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07-18-2013, 04:22 AM | #462 (permalink) |
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Is there something different about 2013s? I just spend the better half of 30 minutes trying to figure out what's still keeping this assembly together.
I have already removed the C-clip and the pin running through it. Why won't it come apart? What am i missing here? Sorry about the cell phone pics. 2013-07-18 01.16.17.jpg Edit: So never mind it was just me being stupid for the better part of 30 minutes. Didn't realize there was some brass gasket there and I was pushing the spring towards it while trying to get it out so it was catching on the lip.
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Last edited by dP3NGU1N; 07-18-2013 at 04:30 AM. |
07-18-2013, 02:51 PM | #464 (permalink) | |
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My OEM setup is rock solid and I never had any issue driving, shifting, or bucking. I removed the springs and I can feel the clutch engage better but the slop at the top of the stroke is horrible now. OEM feels better.
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07-18-2013, 03:01 PM | #465 (permalink) |
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^^That's why most of us replace the stock spring with the weaker one. Similar feel, no slop.
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