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I'd say the effort is similar to my late 90's camaro. No idea what the new camaro's/vettes feel like. Definitely not like hyundai or a vw. I don't even notice
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#1 (permalink) |
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I'd say the effort is similar to my late 90's camaro. No idea what the new camaro's/vettes feel like. Definitely not like hyundai or a vw. I don't even notice the marginal extra effort required any more.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Check out LMBmikeZ on this site. He has a few left for $20 each including the shipping. Great guy... He's in Canada. I just got one yesterday...
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#6 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the heads up ^, but Jsolo came through immediately.
On the subject, I'm looking forward to getting the spring installed to see exactly what difference, if any, exists IMO. That said, I've been studying the clutch feel closely on this car (2012, stock Nismo, 11,000 miles, stock fluid), and am really wondering if the issue many are having isn't related, at least in part, but the "fly by wire" throttle we have. I find the response "mushy", especially from a stop, but I don't find the clutch engagement all that unusual. Engages near the top of the throw, friction feel is not great, but overall very linear. I've driven performance manual cars for years (two Z06's, a GTS Viper and a FFR Cobra), so I think I have a decent grasp on proper feel and operation. Just my .02 thought. In my perfect 370Z world, I'd tighten both the clutch and throttle response up. I'm sure, based on what I'm hearing about Uprev, I could have the throttle response made a bit more crisp at lower levels. Used HPTuners on the LS for that too... ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I use to think exactly like you are right now, and what got me to remove my spring was the fact that I drove my friends car and it felt natural and when I got into my Z again, it had to relearn the clutch I already know how to drive on because it was very numb. I'm also not a newbie at driving manual, I drove 5 cars with manual transmissions, all of which were different but none of them were like the 370z(heck my friends 1g talon with a stage 4 racing clutch had more feeling than my 370z) I recommend you remove the spring and give it a shot, and if worse comes to worse, you can always put it back on if you don't like it. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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![]() I think the bigger issue at play is the small friction window in this clutch design. Great for the track, but really keeps one aware during street driving. Other performance cars i've driven such as the wrx sti had a larger friction zone window. While this can be remedied with a different clutch or the RJM pedal, after 18 months, i've more or less gotten used to it. To get smooth shifts, more focus is required while driving, so less attention is spent on distractions ![]() In fact, the small friction window may be perfectly fine for the 370z, nissan chose to duplicate the drive line for the G with no significant changes, which is not a sports car by any measure. So we're both stuck dealing with the same issues. They did omit the SRM from the G version.
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#9 (permalink) |
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I just did this yesterday and what a difference, I should have done it a year ago!
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#10 (permalink) |
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![]() ![]() I just recently got an EcuTek tune, and the throttle response is much improved ![]()
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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#13 (permalink) |
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If you wanna remove the spring I would suggest to change it with the 20% one. There are few threads about this. If you feel like a big boy, I HIGHLY recommend RJM pedal
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#14 (permalink) |
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I installed this spring within a few weeks of getting my car and it helped my engagments. The oem spring always seemed to want to "pop up" right when the clutch began to catch causing me to buck. About a month later I did the diy to lower the oem clutch pedal slightly and between the two mods I am pretty content with the clutch.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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