For anyone that missed out but still wants a replacement spring I have lots in stock ready to ship!

http://www.the370z.com/drivetrain-en...n-72577-a.html

Looks like they want a 4 piece minimum.

Vaughanabe13, put me down for 1 if you still have an extra.

man i love this mod... just did it to my Z took a couple of mins but its an awesome improvement.. recommend this mod very much!

My order of springs got here today. I am ready to start accepting payments for those of you who live in the lower 48 states (US). Please put your address in the Paypal invoice if possible. I PM'ed everyone on the list. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU DID NOT RECEIVE A PM/EMAIL.

Payment sent. Thanks Vaughanabe13! :tup:

So I'm outside trying to take out the old helper spring and something annoying happens. I pop the C clip off the bottom of the spring and the thing shoots off somewhere in the car and I hear a little metallic "dink". I honestly have no clue where it went, I removed the panel next to the assembly and pulled up the carpet and searched around in there with a flashlight but I can't find the stupid thing! What are my options here, has anyone found replacement C clips that I could buy if I can't find it? I haven't gone any further at this point, I don't want to mess anything up.

You can probably find a replacement at any auto parts store:
E-Clip | AutoZone.com

Oh, and they're called "E-clips" :p

Ahh, my bad. Thanks!

I have yet to hear from three people. I'm planning on shipping out springs over lunch so if you want me to ship them today please contact me ASAP.

*update* I shipped out 6 springs this morning. Still waiting on 3 people to contact me back. The springs will be reserved for you guys until you respond so for everyone else, please do not PM me with spring requests if you are not on the list. Thanks.

To help releave some of vaughanabe13 overloading inbox.......

Pm me! I have lots of springs in stock ready to ship!

Alright guys, I finished installing my new spring last night. I thought I would share my experience and some tips that helped me.

First of all, it's AMAZING with the lighter spring. It literally feels like a different car. As a noob manual driver I can finally get the feel of the clutch and it makes hitting the engagement point extremely easy. I can't even tell you how much BETTER the car is without that awful stock spring in there, it's unbelievable. Everyone MUST do this mod, IMO.

That being said, I haven't seen a definitive DIY tutorial on here, just bits and pieces of how to do it. There were a few things that were unclear to me when I started removing the spring, and I have gotten several PMs from people asking me how I did it, which tells me there are other people out there confused like I was. So this is what I did.

1. Leave the clutch engaged for now. Simply remove the E clip on the bottom pin (pin closest to the floor). I ended up using an angled needle nose pliers and I spun the clip around so the opening was facing away from me, and then I used the angled pliers to grip both edges of the opening in the clip and then I pulled toward me to release it. It does take a little bit of force. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you use both hands to do this. I ended up flinging the E clip back into the car somewhere, and even after tearing up the carpet and some panels I couldn't find the stupid thing. For now I don't have a clip on there anymore but I'm going to measure and buy a replacement E clip.
2. After the clip is off, you need to depress the clutch pedal almost all the way down. At first I tried doing this with one hand while I worked with the other hand and that did NOT work very well. Because the space is so cramped, it really helps to have someone/something hold the pedal down for you. I ended up asking my girlfriend to sit in the driver seat and hold the clutch down while looking pretty. This made everything 1000x easier.
3. With the clutch pedal down, use the angled pliers to tap the bottom pin from right to left and it should start to come out. If it doesn't budge you might need some more lube. White lithium grease should do just fine. If it's still stuck, you probably need to adjust the amount you're pushing the clutch in so the holes around the pin don't "grip" the pin into place. Tap the pin until you can't make it move any further, and then use the angled pliers to grip just below the head of the pin and pull straight out.
4. After the pin comes out, set it aside and try not to rub the grease off if you can help it. Now you need to pivot the clutch spring assembly along the top pin. DO NOT REMOVE THE TOP PIN/CLIP, you don't need to touch it. Just grab the bottom of the spring assembly and swing it towards you until you feel it come off the black clutch piece. At this point, the whole assembly will basically just fly off toward the floor, because there is a secondary spring hidden inside the assembly that will push it off of the bar. This is fine.
5. Now take the spring assembly out, remove the stock spring and replace it with the new spring. Re-assemble everything so you can put it back in. The order goes like this: Small spring, "top hat" piece, so the spring sits "inside" the top hat, then the spring assembly with spring installed.
6. Slide the whole assembly, starting with the small spring, back onto to the rod, which should still have adequate grease on it. At this point you will need your helper to push the clutch back in. Push the assembly up until the bottom pin holes on the assembly meet the holes on the black metal piece.
7. Now you just need to slide the pin back into the bottom of the assembly. It's actually not too hard to do, but I utilized an AWESOME tip by another forum member. You should get some channel locks for this step. Now stick the pin in the outside hole and try to line everything up. Push the pin in as far as you can by hand, which won't be very far. Now put one edge of the channel locks on the outside of the pin, and the other part should go around the outside of the black metal clutch piece that is holding the assembly. Now use one hand to hold the assembly so the pin holes line up with the holes on the black piece, and with the other hand, squeeze the channel locks to push the pin in. You will need to adjust the holes back and forth until they line up perfectly and then pin will shoot right through to the other side.
8. After the pin is all the way in, release the clutch. The last thing to do is to put the E clip back on the bottom pin, which you can do with the needle nose pliers. Be careful not to let the pin go shooting off somewhere! I skipped this step for now because I need to go buy a replacement clip. The clutch assembly won't go anywhere without that clip, the pin is pretty stuck in there while you're driving. But I'm going to replace it just for peace of mind.

You will now notice that there is a little bit of loose play at the top of the clutch travel. You will get used to this really fast and honestly it's no big deal. The clutch is a tiny bit harder to press but as you're letting it out you can really feel in your foot when you get to the engagement point. I guarantee you won't go back to the old spring after you feel the difference.

That's it! You now have a car that feels completely different! Hopefully some of you can benefit from my mini-DIY.

Just to add 1 thing to his DIY, use Zip ties to hold the clutch peddle down while working on it alone.

Or you can take a piece of plastic pipe of piece of wood (anything that has a dull end) push the pedal in with it then slide the seat up to hold it in.

And if you have some clutch pedal play here's how to adjust it out:

http://www.the370z.com/1245514-post193.html

Amazing difference!
 

I ordered the softer spring about 3 months ago and never got around to installing it until this weekend. I saw all the comments about how much better it was from other members and thought to myself "OK, if it really is that much better why wouldn't Nissan spec such a spring in the first place?" They would be stupid not to if it makes the clutch feel that much better. So I didn't think it would make that much of an improvement. Well... IT DOES. I can't believe it. The stock clutch action is 1000% better! Thanks to all involved in this project!!:rofl2:

Installed mine today. Vaughanabe13 - Your instructions were very helpful. :tup:

Not sure if this was posted, but this is the correct tool to remove and install these "snap rings":
Snap Ring Tool Set - Retaining and Lock Ring Pliers - Pliers - 4YP48 : Grainger Industrial Supply

Perhaps Harbor Freight might have something :)

Thanks LMBMikeZ
 

Got mine in the mail on Friday. Thanks Mike!

Canada Post Service LOL shoulda known it would take a while.

Sent something from SF Bay area to Canada once, didn't get delivered and came back like 2 or 3 months later. I think I calculated the speed of the package at 1 MPH LOL. Coulda walked faster than that Canada Post.

Lol thank B&W glad you got yours! I have ha a couple people pm me asking how long. Sorry guys as b&w said I am shipping them with Canada post, as I am in Canada lol. The border always seems to add acouple days to shipments when going out of country. It's not like a national shipment where you get it in 3-7 days. For different country shipping they generally say 7-10 days unless you pay 3x as much then you get the 3-7 day........

Hope everyone gets there spring soon! Post comments and or reviews here or in my thread in my signature, once you have installed and had a chance to try it out!

Thanks
Mike

I just got yours today.. thanks Mike! I won't be able to put it on until the next couple weeks though. But I'll be sure to post a review once I get it in.

ok so the pin got a gouge in it so it will not push thru, can this pin be bought a local hardware store?

edit: fixed it

What a fantastic mod! I've just done mine tonight by torch light!

Here is my DIY write up with full pictures :)

Did mine today. Had a bit of trouble pulling the pin out after I got the retainer off. Ended up scaring the pin from the pliers and had to take the grinding wheel to the pin to smooth it back out in order to get it back into place. The feel is much better to thought.

If you take a look at my guide (the link is in the post above yours) you'll see you can use a screwdriver to lever the spring assembly up - that way you take the pressure off the pin and it slides out easily.

I know it's a bit late for you but I hope that helps someone else.

It took quite a bit of googling to find this thread, but I'm glad I did!

First off, I want to say many thanks to the posters in this thread that have done the legwork and research to figure out the characteristics of the stock spring. It appears the dimensions are still the same for my 2012 application.

Unfortunately, it appears I missed the boat by a few weeks (months?). I recently bought a G37 6mt sedan. Only had it for a few days, but can't get over how vague the clutch is. Removed the spring which resulted in much better feel. Given that it's a new car, i'm not to thrilled with leaving it out altogether. So, to remedy the issue and save a few bucks, I started a group buy over at the myg37.com site - For Sale Group Buy - Clutch Pedal Assist Spring for 6MT - MyG37

put me on the list...not a member there

Ni55anPat, done. To keep things organized, please PM me your email and I'll add it to my notes.

Just did mine today and wow, what a difference. Great low priced mod that really works.

Thanks!

David

did you bench bleed it or dry install?

^^Did you bench bleed the master? Did the clutch behave like this before it broke/wore out, before the repairs? If it's a completely dry system, you need to thoroughly bleed it.

EXCELLENT TIP! I actually struggled for like 10 mins to get that pin back in... then checked this posting. I didnt have a channel locks so I just used a vice grip.. and it worked in 15 seconds I had the pin back in. :tup:

^^Next time you guys use this procedure, snap a pic. I'm having a hard time visualizing. I just pressed the pedal all the way to the floor and was able to easily get the bottom pin in.

^ Dont think I'll be taking the spring back out again - but basically the pin felt too big for the hole (thats what she said). So I had to force it a bit by putting one side of the vice grip on the back of the pin and the other side on the hosing for the spring and squeezing it in there.

Just finished replacing the spring. Big thanks to Vaughanabe13 for his DIY. It helped a lot.

I must say that this is the best mod ever. Nissan should use this spring standard on the 370Z.

I do wonder why they went with such a stiff spring. Maybe too many complaining that the clutch requires too much effort.

Seems to require less effort almost - i notice the difference when the clutch is traveling back up, it does not kick and push its way up and you just have to guide it gently back up (feeling the points that it engages) rather than fighting to keep it down and from springing back up so quickly. Its easier to drive than the stock... no idea why they went w/ such a stiff spring.

I did mine months ago and would never think about going back. That being said, have any of you gone to the dealer for service with that spring in? did they notice or say anything about it

I'd say if you go in for anything trans related, have some sort of spring in there (be it OE or lighter). Anything else, I doubt they'll care or look. I know out here manuals are rather rare, so not much of an issue.

Anyways, it takes all of 30 seconds to pop the spring in/out.

There is no way I could get a hold of the helper spring now right?

I still have some left.. look at post #305.

http://www.the370z.com/1453748-post305.html