I'd say the effort is similar to my late 90's camaro. No idea what the new camaro's/vettes feel like. Definitely not like hyundai or a vw. I don't even notice the marginal extra effort required any more.

Just did this to my car. Couldn't be any happier.

Took the whole thing apart and put it back together without the spring.

Anyone have a Century spring they'd like to part with? Went to the company's website, and I'd like to avoid buying $47 worth if I don't have to.

Thanks to Jsolo for coming through! PM and payment sent. Want to give this mod a try before deciding on the RJM clutch pedal upgrade.

I just did this yesterday and what a difference, I should have done it a year ago!

Check out LMBmikeZ on this site. He has a few left for $20 each including the shipping. Great guy... He's in Canada. I just got one yesterday...

Thanks for the heads up ^, but Jsolo came through immediately.

On the subject, I'm looking forward to getting the spring installed to see exactly what difference, if any, exists IMO. That said, I've been studying the clutch feel closely on this car (2012, stock Nismo, 11,000 miles, stock fluid), and am really wondering if the issue many are having isn't related, at least in part, but the "fly by wire" throttle we have. I find the response "mushy", especially from a stop, but I don't find the clutch engagement all that unusual. Engages near the top of the throw, friction feel is not great, but overall very linear. I've driven performance manual cars for years (two Z06's, a GTS Viper and a FFR Cobra), so I think I have a decent grasp on proper feel and operation.

Just my .02 thought. In my perfect 370Z world, I'd tighten both the clutch and throttle response up. I'm sure, based on what I'm hearing about Uprev, I could have the throttle response made a bit more crisp at lower levels. Used HPTuners on the LS for that too...:stirthepot:

:iagree: Honestly, I find the clutch feel significantly improved when I'm barefoot vs when I wear my boots for work. My daily commute is typically wearing boots, and everything else like weekend cruising is typically barefoot.

I just recently got an EcuTek tune, and the throttle response is much improved :tup: I don't have any problems with the stock clutch as I have gotten used to it, but I'd rather be able to adjust it to me than having to adjust myself to it. I look forward to being able to fully adjust it to my liking once I get the RJM clutch pedal assembly.

There is an RJM pedal kit for sale in the classifieds. 200 i think. :tiphat:

:tiphat: I'm planning to pick one up by the end of the year - a new one isn't much more expensive. I'm currently bracing for ~$800 in brake rotors and pads that I will be purchasing by the end of next week, and I'll need new rear tires before the summer is out, so no mods for a while :(

I feel that is only part of the problem, sure the flyby wire pedal sucks with pedal response, yes a better responding gas pedal will help out clutch engagement, but unfortunately the clutch spring is still part of the problem.

I use to think exactly like you are right now, and what got me to remove my spring was the fact that I drove my friends car and it felt natural and when I got into my Z again, it had to relearn the clutch I already know how to drive on because it was very numb. I'm also not a newbie at driving manual, I drove 5 cars with manual transmissions, all of which were different but none of them were like the 370z(heck my friends 1g talon with a stage 4 racing clutch had more feeling than my 370z)

I recommend you remove the spring and give it a shot, and if worse comes to worse, you can always put it back on if you don't like it.

If you wanna remove the spring I would suggest to change it with the 20% one. There are few threads about this. If you feel like a big boy, I HIGHLY recommend RJM pedal :tup:

I'll add in my 2¢ worth too :). I do agree on the throttle response - the immediate off idle seems a bit lagged. That can probably be fixed via programming. I recall on the motorcycle's powercommander programming, more programming granularity was available at smaller throttle openings than larger (2, 5, 10, 20, 40, 60, 80, 100% throttle positions). Not sure what uprev allows, but likely similar. Something else to keep in mind, it is a fine balance too. If the throttle is too responsive, slow speed driveability will be negatively affected.

I think the bigger issue at play is the small friction window in this clutch design. Great for the track, but really keeps one aware during street driving. Other performance cars i've driven such as the wrx sti had a larger friction zone window. While this can be remedied with a different clutch or the RJM pedal, after 18 months, i've more or less gotten used to it. To get smooth shifts, more focus is required while driving, so less attention is spent on distractions :)

In fact, the small friction window may be perfectly fine for the 370z, nissan chose to duplicate the drive line for the G with no significant changes, which is not a sports car by any measure. So we're both stuck dealing with the same issues. They did omit the SRM from the G version.

I think everything we've commented on is true, to one extent or another. I'm looking forward to installing the lighter spring, and seeing what difference it makes. Here's to experimentation!!

Ok, Jsolo sent the spring fast, got it last night, and just installed it. Took about a minute, start to finish. The longest part was finding something in the garage (ended up with a piece of PVC pipe) long enough to wedge the clutch pedal down against the front of the driver's seat.

Popped off the c-clip, wedged the pedal down, pushed out the bottom pin only (came out smoothly), removed the entire spring assembly (top hat and top hat spring too), removed big spring, replaced with new spring, slipped it back on, reinserted bottom pin (went right back in), released clutch pedal, and reinserted c-clip. Could have only been easier if I was getting a back rub at the same time....:tup:

Heading out in a bit to see how it feels......

Alright, first test drive after install. My impressions are, while I can't feel an 80% drop in spring tension (my understanding is, the replacement spring provides only 20% of the tension of the OEM), what it does provide is simply a bit better feel for where the friction of the clutch plate on the pressure plate picks up. On our stock clutches, this friction zone is near the top 25% if the pedal travel, and that seems to be a harder area to manipulate slowly and accurately with your foot/leg. For that reason, I obviously felt it improved the clutch pedal feel in initial vehicle movement from a stop in 1st, and in the 1st to 2nd shift. Definitely noticable, but I'm sure a switch to the RJM adjustable pedal would be a greater improvement. I have to say, for $17.00, you can't go wrong.

Anyone expecting a totally new feel will be disappointed, but if you want a bit better feel with clutch engagement, especially from a stop (annoying stall, anyone??), and from 1st to 2nd, then IMO, it's worth the cost and minor effort to install. If you have at least one hand, and decent eyesight, you can handle it...:tup:

Put a RJM adjustable clutch pedal in it,you will think you went back to a cable operated clutch.:tup:

I installed this spring within a few weeks of getting my car and it helped my engagments. The oem spring always seemed to want to "pop up" right when the clutch began to catch causing me to buck. About a month later I did the diy to lower the oem clutch pedal slightly and between the two mods I am pretty content with the clutch.

Yup, I think that about sums it up! Enjoying it more every time I drive it.

Just installed the lighter clutch spring and im lovin' it! This is how the Z should feel coming from the factory. :happydance:

Fixed it :tup:

Is there something different about 2013s? I just spend the better half of 30 minutes trying to figure out what's still keeping this assembly together.

I have already removed the C-clip and the pin running through it. Why won't it come apart? What am i missing here?

Sorry about the cell phone pics.

Attachment 73129

Edit: So never mind it was just me being stupid for the better part of 30 minutes. Didn't realize there was some brass gasket there and I was pushing the spring towards it while trying to get it out so it was catching on the lip.

Glad you got it out. Pretty cool inexpensive mod.

Why not? I did.

My OEM setup is rock solid and I never had any issue driving, shifting, or bucking. I removed the springs and I can feel the clutch engage better but the slop at the top of the stroke is horrible now. OEM feels better.

^^That's why most of us replace the stock spring with the weaker one. Similar feel, no slop.

This. It's a good trade off between OEM and no spring. For less then $20 you can't go wrong. I drove it with no spring for a couple days and did not like the slop at all.

That's why there's is 2 adjustments on the OEM setup :happydance:

Just took the slop out. Now this is a race pedal!!

Or just grab the RJM pedal :)

2 adjustments?

You guys really need a RJM adjustable clutch pedal it gets rid of all the flaws in the stock set up , it makes it feel like your driving a cable operated clutch.

I'm pretty happy with my oem setup now, maybe down the road.

I was just curious about these two adjustment since the OEM pedal has zero......unless you count adjusting the master cylinder rod as one

They are talking about adjusting the clutch and brake switches.

That's not really an adjustment though....its needed if you're doing that DIY clutch pedal stopper mod on myg37.com

Yeah the rod going to the master in the front and the sensor in the back.

Lol then why are they adjustable? There's nothing wrong with adjusting them as long as you do it right and don't engage the throw out bearing in the resting position.

The rod is adjustable. ive adjusted mine slightly as well. The brake and cruise switch aren't adjustments that affect the actual pedal feel and travel though. I hope youre not adjusting those switches to stop/limit the actual pedal travel....that needs to be done by the stoppers on the pedal frame.

I did. Without the spring the pedal falls further to the firewall. They most certainly are effecting pedal travel. With the upper switch moved down it takes the play out and the switch is properly engaged in the resting position. No effects, no problems.

I just bought an 09 370z and im trying to do this mod. It seems like my spring is yellow as opposed to the black ones that you guys have. Is this an aftermarket spring?

Nope that's oem. Mine was yellow as well.

Oh okay thanks. Still having trouble taking it apart. I'll figure it out