Is this the century or esfourteen spring?

Whatever, buying one since there are 5 left and hoping it's the century. :D

^^Century spring.

i've been driving on the new spring for past 5 days and i love it...anyone driving manual needs to do this mod...it makes driving stick on this car enjoyable, before it was more like a chore and i hated 1st and 2nd shifts...now its a breeze

whats the difference?

Scope22, haven't a clue what the difference is.

Supposedly the century spring has even less resistance, but is also a bit longer so less play at the very top.

I put it in yesterday. Im going to have to get used to it all over again. But believe it or not I dont like how slow it disengages the clutch. It is noticeably slower than the stock spring as far as resistance and clutch pedal movement and that obiviously helps out as far as getting the feel back of the "friction point." I dunno, just goin to give it some time and see how it works out.

That's weird and the first time I have herd of that complaint.

So I was trying to pop out the pins, and....lost one behind the plastic panel on the left.

I pulled the panel and looked around but couldn't find it. Looks like it slid down somewhere to the floor of the car. :thumbsdown:

Does anyone think it's referred to by nissan as the snap pin? (.76c third from the bottom) Part Detail

Hope it doesn't rattle down there.

Lol, I hate when stuff like that happens.. Good luck getting it sorted out! Its the smallest little things that are a PITA!

Firstly, not sure how the FFFFFFFFFU*$*($$(($CKI$J you guys swap out the spring so easily by just removing the bottom pin. Basically, with the clutch all the way down, the spring assembly was impossible to line up with the hole and get the pin in. If I had a third hand to slightly compress the spring and bring it in line, I might have gotten it to work.

Anyway, new century spring is in, hopefully the last time I'll swap it.

The esfourteen was definitely an improvement over stock, no question. After a day with the century link spring, I have to say it is still definitely worth the change from the esfourteen. The esfourteen had a bit of slack at the top, and this reduces it to where this legitimately feels like it should be a dealer option. :bowrofl:

Still kind of bitter about losing the top circlip and the bolt for the fuse panel piece. I guess it's my fault for doing this while sick and not being as careful as I usually am. $h1t just flying all over the place this time :bowrofl:

My first time doing this I had the same issue. I lost the C clip from the top pin behind the fuse box. Tried retrieving it with one of those telescoping magnet tools but no luck.

Ended up pulling several panels to get at it. This was in the middle of December with a car I just brought home few days earlier. What a PITA. After closely examining the arrangement, it became apparent only the bottom pin/clevis had to come out.

The trick is to insert the pin part way into the clevis BEFORE lining up the clevis with the rest of the assembly. In fact, begin with the pin facing you (while partly in the clevis). As i depress the pedal with the left hand, I line up the pin/clevis with the rest of the bracket. At the same time, once lined up, push pin (with right hand) all the way through. It seriously took me longer to type this out than it would to do it.

Also worth noting, although the clevis may appear symmetrical, I don't believe it is. One side of the part is stamped with 2 small circles/dimples. These should face to the right/passenger side when installed. Otherwise, I've found it is difficult to remove it later.

I never bothered to reinstall the c-clip, so what does it even do? If it's to prevent the pin from sliding out, I can't see that it's needed, my pin is locked in tight.

Did this mod with the spring from LMBmikeZ. For only $20 shipped, it's worth doing. It will not make you a pro driver but it does increase clutch feel.

However it's not as easy to do as some people say. First of all, you need to be a contortionist to get under there, press the clutch with one hand and remove the C clip & pin with the other. I couldn't do it.

So I got a dowel and a block of wood, depressed the clutch with it and wedged it against the drivers seat. Now I had 2 hands free. I removed the bottom C clip but couldn't remove the pin. So I replaced the C clip and proceeded to the top C clip & pin. Fortunately that one came off fairly easily and as others have said, all you need to do is remove one pin.

One last thing, make sure you have good lighting to put under there before starting the job.

^^You don't need to press the pedal to remove the clip. Only to remove the pin. You are right about needing to be a contortionist though. If you're a big guy, it will be difficult.

Here's what I did at 11:45PM, after long bouts of swearing and bruised ribs and sore shoulders: BTW, I don't recommend anyone doing this and do not take responsibility for following my desperate stupidity.

Since I couldn't get the bottom pin to go in with the pedal fully engaged, I ended up taking the top out and started with the bottom installed first. I couldn't get the top pin in when the pedal was down, so I put the spring mechanism firmly into place and slowly let go of the pedal. I realize this meant that the spring mechanism is loaded now without a top pin installed to keep it in place, but at 52lb or whatever, I figured I would put on some safety goggles and quickly slip the top pin in with my hand over the spring mechanism to keep it from popping out, and hoping it was all lined up to allow easy insertion of the pin (unlike the ******* bottom, which I couldn't line up after many attempts).

I would not do this under any circumstance with the stock 300lb+ spring, and my justification for the new spring being less dangerous might be misinformed, but I was so f'n tired of dealing with it that I was prepared to live with this flying around my cockpit like the cirpin and the fuse panel nut (both of which have disappeared into oblivion within my interior).

Anywho, got it in, and I'm not replacing it again. :driving: :happydance:

Doesn't take much lateral movement to slip it out. Is it likely to slip out? Probably not, but it would suck if it did.

I don't get this..
I have an 08 350Z..and yes..when I first drove it, the clutch took a bit of getting used to. I stalled this mofo at first when taking off. However, I learned how to feather the clutch, using the ball of my foot. It's a piece of cake to engage once you have figured this out. So much pissing and moaning over nothing as far as I'm concerned. The STOCK clutch pedal works fine and dandy...just have to adjust to it.

Woops..need to edit this..
Should read>>>

*Using the HEEL* of my foot as as a fulcrum/pivot

Um, what part of your foot did you used to use?!?!

Guess I messed up..the HEEL is now used as a fulcrum. Sorry bout that.
My HEEL is planted and I then have much more control/leverage as I apply the foot down on the pedal.

Hmm, had to read that a few times before i stopped thinking you were crazy :)

However, proper control of the clutch can't be attained with the heel always on the floor, but you're right in that the ankle is supposed to play a part in normal clutch use.

I also agree with your thoughts over correct use being able to control it well, however, if you analyse it during use, unless you're fully concentrating, you do end up with a slightly jerky experience if you're not fully on top of it.

Well, there are times when you have to lift the foot...but for the most part,
I just don't find operating the clutch pedal to be a big deal. It does require a lot of finesse..but once you get the hang of it, it's easy. Personally, I wouldn't bother with any mod that swaps/deletes the spring..but to each his own.

Clutch Pedal Position Adjustment
 

Finally saw the image I needed from Stino to explain this.

The image is of the stock clutch assembly.

Loosen clevis lock nut,
Rotate Clutch Master Cylinder Rod (into clevis lowers clutch engagement point)
Tighten clevis lock nut.

Be sure to support the clevis with a wrench when loosening and tightening the lock nut so you don't bend any of the sheetmetal around it.

Keep the engagement at least 2" off the floor to ensure full disengagement for shifting.

Also... Do this at your own risk, I'm just providing information on what I did, not a recommendation on what you should do.

I don't know but i drove a nismo stock and i had no issue with the clutch at all

bookmarked for if I get a Z :D

I'm so going to try this when I get home. It's ridiculous that I look like I don't know how to drive stick when I've been doing so for ten years, lol.

I hope this helps out.

I drove my Z today but just 5min lol and the clutch was fine for me. hmm

Just drove it after doing this... Oh my what a beautiful difference.

Was a bit difficult to get the pins out, but I got them.

I picked mine up today directly from Century Springs and installed it. Much better feel and clutch engagement. Wish I would have done this a long time ago.

I don't know. It is fine for me with my Z now

who sales this springs? i want to make a purchase on one.

here ya go

http://www.the370z.com/drivetrain-en...n-72577-a.html

I ordered this : http://www.the370z.com/drivetrain-en...n-72577-a.html (still in mail)

But today removed the spring completely and on my god... Holy **** of a difference....

:tup: That's how I'm running it: No spring. Def. a better difference.

I know this is an old thread, but it deserves a re.read.

Removing the spring is THE best mod ever. I,ve been driving stick shift since 1970 and never had the crazy lurching as with the Z.
Spring gone, perfect smoothness!!!!!!

ANd the higher effort is barely noticeable, and cruise control works perfect.

People here have changed the spring with a softer one instead of just removing the oem one. I am trying to go this route as I hate the stock clutch feeling. :mad:

Is the replacement clutch pedal soft spring still available?

For what it's worth, I purchases the replacement spring offered by a member here on the forum. I never installed it though. I simply removed the helper spring and I actually like the feel without it.

It was brilliant....and well worth repeating.
removed the bottom pin and just let the spring hang there since esfourteen posted in mid 2011.
Similar effect on old Ferraris too.
The spring should not be doing anything other than acting as a servo...so the disconnect or removal is unlikely to affect anything.

Fritz

Just wondering, does this mod make the clutch feel more like a American muscle car: corvette, mustang and camaro? Or more like hyundai?