Oil Change

Forrest · 04-11-2009, 06:24 AM

sadly i have no friends with a shop and i am not very trusting of shops in general wich is why i rather attempt it my self.

tbonesteak · 04-11-2009, 01:05 PM

exhaust install is very easy. You can't really screw up as long as you make sure that everything lines up, is torqued down, and the rubber hangers are fitted correctly. Once u see the thing under the car, u'll understand it.

tbonesteak · 04-11-2009, 01:06 PM

ok back on topic.

ZzzZz · 04-14-2009, 07:03 PM

Nissan Ester Oil

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chan Chee Hoe

My dealer here don't have the Nissan Esters oil,anybody got a picture of the container,so that i can show it to the dealer.?

Quote:

Originally Posted by alan93rsa

I went to my local dealer, not the one I purchased the car from, and they didn't have a clue about any special oil for the car.

Chan Chee Hoe · 04-15-2009, 07:16 AM

Today,just checked with my Agent,they said never heard of the ester oil before,i bought Shell Helix Ultra[100% syn] & decided to use it when the car is fully run in.

isaacssk · 04-15-2009, 10:45 AM

is the most conveinent/cost effective place or virtual place to get these items
???

Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them".

I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really).

Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling:

FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

wstar · 04-15-2009, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by isaacssk

is the most conveinent/cost effective place or virtual place to get these items
???

It's all commonly available stuff (the filters and oil I chose), you can just put the product names into Google and find hundreds of places that sell them.

semtex · 04-15-2009, 11:11 AM

^The Motul can be a little hard to find, depending on where you live.

isaacssk · 04-15-2009, 11:31 AM

THanks! will probably add a magnetic plug as well. I didnt know if there was a preferred forum sponsor who dealt with maintenance items like these. I guess you cant pick up Motul at big box stores.

wstar · 04-15-2009, 11:58 AM

BTW I got my FilterMag in the other day, it's pretty nifty and the magnets are insanely strong. At next oil change I'm going to cut open my filter and see what it managed to trap. I'm dubious about their claims that it's really stopping anything that a good filter wouldn't stop, but I figure if it sucks up some metal and keeps it from clogging the filter, all the better.

semtex · 04-15-2009, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse

I just HAD to add my 2cents. I was a DIE HARD mobile 1 fan. die hard. I bought a suzuki gsxr race motorcycle in 05 and refused to use anything else but the MX4T (mobile 1).

Well motorcycles have a sight glass in the crankcase used to measure the oil level. I noticed that the mobile 1 would form MANY bubbles, then return to normal. After a few days of riding the bubbles would get so bad that it would look like foam. Mind you I couldnt see it under the oil cap, but it was very aparent in the crankcase. I figured since in my mind this was the best oil it must be normal. Well a few years later I studied oils more and realized mobile 1 is not even true synthetic. I was PISSED! I did more research and talked to some motorcycle racers and settled on MOTUL double ester. As soon as I rode the bike down the street it was amazing to say the least!! the shifts were smoother, the engine seemed completely different. It truely felt like a whole different....well.....everything. Crisp shifts, more power (butt dyno) And I never got any bubbles/foam!!!

I WILL NEVER USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN MOTUL!!!!

Wow. Thanks for sharing your experience, Jesse. Yeah I've heard from a number of people that once you switch over to Motul, you will actually feel the difference. I can't wait to make the switch now! Regarding Mobil1 not being a true synthetic, can you elaborate on that? I'm just curious as to how it's not a true synthetic, what constitutes a true synthetic, etc.

ChrisSlicks · 04-15-2009, 11:06 PM

This might help

When is a synthetic a synthetic?

drisko · 04-16-2009, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I believe the claims about the VVEL needing something special (such as the recommended Esters in the G37, or perhaps other equivalent methods of getting a good lube film of some kind to really stick on them). Even though I'm using the Nissan Ester stuff for break-in, what I hear on cold starts makes me cringe. It takes a solid 15+ seconds after cold startup before the tell-tale change in cylinder head noises that indicates full lubrication up there (which reminds me to make a point about allowing an overnight-cold car to properly lube itself before driving to extend engine life).

Good oil is worth the investment in my opinion, and something with esters in it is staying in mine, at least until I feel like I've researched this enough to have a firm grasp on the issue.

I too have done a lot of research on oils that will work well with the VVEL system, but I haven't come across any definitive answers as to what types of "esters" are actually in the Nissan Ester Oil. I originally wanted to use Mobil 1 due to it's quick cold weather pumping, lower friction, and better durability in high temps, but I'm going to stick with the Ester Oil until I figure out if another oil is actually safe to use in the LONG TERM with the VVEL system. All the Nissan dealers I've spoke with, as well as Corporate Nissan, have told me repeatedly that the Ester Oil is required and not using it could void your warranty (despite what the owners manual says!!!).

Bobba Booey · 04-16-2009, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse

I did more research and talked to some motorcycle racers and settled on MOTUL double ester. As soon as I rode the bike down the street it was amazing to say the least!! the shifts were smoother, the engine seemed completely different. It truely felt like a whole different....well.....everything. Crisp shifts, more power (butt dyno) And I never got any bubbles/foam!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Semtex

Yeah I've heard from a number of people that once you switch over to Motul, you will actually feel the difference.

Saying you will "feel" the difference by switching oils is the placebo effect with a shot of nitrous.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jesse

Well a few years later I studied oils more and realized mobile 1 is not even true synthetic. I was PISSED!

If the specs of the oil were the only thing that mattered, then the UOA's from oils like Motul and Amsoil would put brands like Castrol and Pennzoil to shame. There is not enough data to know which brands will protect the VQ35VHR the best, but the highly acclaimed Motul did not provide as much protection on the VQ35DE as simple dino Castrol GTX. So, don't be so concerned about the base stock of the oil.

ChrisSlicks · 04-17-2009, 11:08 AM

When high rpms are involved, friction becomes a critical factor. Drag increases exponentially with piston speed, so you're going to do some different things in a 16k rpm motorcycle or 14k rpm F1 engine than you are in a 7-8k rpm street car.

04-15-2009, 10:45 AM	#81 (permalink)
isaacssk Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: IN Posts: 2 Drives: 2019 Base Auto Rep Power: 16	Where? is the most conveinent/cost effective place or virtual place to get these items ??? Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them". I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really). Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling: FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

04-15-2009, 11:11 AM	#83 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 32	^The Motul can be a little hard to find, depending on where you live. __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

04-15-2009, 11:58 AM	#85 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	BTW I got my FilterMag in the other day, it's pretty nifty and the magnets are insanely strong. At next oil change I'm going to cut open my filter and see what it managed to trap. I'm dubious about their claims that it's really stopping anything that a good filter wouldn't stop, but I figure if it sucks up some metal and keeps it from clogging the filter, all the better. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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04-11-2009, 06:24 AM	#76 (permalink)
Forrest Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: california 707! Posts: 677 Drives: 09 370z Blk 6mt sprt Rep Power: 258	sadly i have no friends with a shop and i am not very trusting of shops in general wich is why i rather attempt it my self.

04-11-2009, 01:05 PM	#77 (permalink)
tbonesteak Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 914 Drives: MY09 MB 6MT Rep Power: 375	exhaust install is very easy. You can't really screw up as long as you make sure that everything lines up, is torqued down, and the rubber hangers are fitted correctly. Once u see the thing under the car, u'll understand it.

04-11-2009, 01:06 PM	#78 (permalink)
tbonesteak Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 914 Drives: MY09 MB 6MT Rep Power: 375	ok back on topic.

04-15-2009, 07:16 AM	#80 (permalink)
Chan Chee Hoe Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Singapore Posts: 861 Drives: 370z,Yellow,7sp A Rep Power: 17	Today,just checked with my Agent,they said never heard of the ester oil before,i bought Shell Helix Ultra[100% syn] & decided to use it when the car is fully run in.

04-15-2009, 11:31 AM	#84 (permalink)
isaacssk Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: IN Posts: 2 Drives: 2019 Base Auto Rep Power: 16	THanks! will probably add a magnetic plug as well. I didnt know if there was a preferred forum sponsor who dealt with maintenance items like these. I guess you cant pick up Motul at big box stores.

04-15-2009, 11:06 PM	#87 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	This might help When is a synthetic a synthetic?

04-17-2009, 11:08 AM	#90 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	When high rpms are involved, friction becomes a critical factor. Drag increases exponentially with piston speed, so you're going to do some different things in a 16k rpm motorcycle or 14k rpm F1 engine than you are in a 7-8k rpm street car.