Oil Change

ChrisSlicks · 04-09-2009, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

Or they didn't properly tighten the oil filter. That'd cause a leak as well.

Possible, but it would have to be very loose or they didn't lube the O-ring.

semtex · 04-09-2009, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Possible, but it would have to be very loose or they didn't lube the O-ring.

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

OnCallZ · 04-09-2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

Yeah It was always in the back of my mind, just never thought it would happen to me. I usually get down and dirty with my vehicles but this time I decided to cut some corners and do the free oil change

wstar · 04-09-2009, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

It's not 21, It's 16 bolts and 3 snaps

, there's 6x 10mm with phillips heads along the front, 3 of the same down each side, 4 slightly different ones (no phillips, but still 10mm) along the back, and then 3 snaps in a row through the middle. I've learned it by heart now, I think I've taken that thing off like 8 times already. Last time I didn't even jack the car up, I just laid down on the floor by the front bumper, reached under, and did it blind by feel.

semtex · 04-09-2009, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

It's not 21, It's 16 bolts and 3 snaps

, there's 6x 10mm with phillips heads along the front, 3 of the same down each side, 4 slightly different ones (no phillips, but still 10mm) along the back, and then 3 snaps in a row through the middle. I've learned it by heart now, I think I've taken that thing off like 8 times already. Last time I didn't even jack the car up, I just laid down on the floor by the front bumper, reached under, and did it blind by feel.

Okay fine, it's 19 things that might not get put back right instead of 21. It's still enough of a PITA to make me worry that some service tech might get lazy and not bother with putting them all back right.

wstar · 04-09-2009, 07:18 PM

Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them".

I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really).

Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling:

FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

And if you guys really want to get crazy, this is the kind of thing I was think of the other day in that other thread (re: pre-oilers):

AccuSump - With the right set of options and so-on, this acts as both a pre-oiler and an extra pressure sump. You give it power before cranking your cold engine, and it pre-loads pressurized oil up into the engine to prevent cold-start wear, and refills itself from your oil pump once pressure is up. Then when you're driving, if there's any sudden loss of oil pressure, a pressure-sensitive valve automatically opens and maintains pressure using the sump for a few seconds until your oil pump recovers (and then refills itself for the next hit). This happens if you corner or accel hard enough that the oil in the oilpan goes up the side wall and leaves the oil pump pickup tube sucking dry.

I'm not sure if I'm willing to go that far, but it's pretty cool stuff.

isaacssk · 04-15-2009, 09:45 AM

is the most conveinent/cost effective place or virtual place to get these items
???

Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them".

I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really).

Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling:

FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

wstar · 04-15-2009, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by isaacssk

is the most conveinent/cost effective place or virtual place to get these items
???

It's all commonly available stuff (the filters and oil I chose), you can just put the product names into Google and find hundreds of places that sell them.

isaacssk · 04-15-2009, 10:31 AM

THanks! will probably add a magnetic plug as well. I didnt know if there was a preferred forum sponsor who dealt with maintenance items like these. I guess you cant pick up Motul at big box stores.

dad · 04-09-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

Plus, why pay some one, for something, you can do!

gpa7pk · 04-09-2009, 07:52 PM

The Amsoil EA012 oil filter should be considered. The filter mesh design is the better current design.

molamann · 04-09-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

Perhaps I shouldn't trust myself considering I've already lost one bolt, lol. I swear the damn thing just f*cking vanished.

04-09-2009, 07:18 PM	#6 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them". I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really). Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling: FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something. And if you guys really want to get crazy, this is the kind of thing I was think of the other day in that other thread (re: pre-oilers): AccuSump - With the right set of options and so-on, this acts as both a pre-oiler and an extra pressure sump. You give it power before cranking your cold engine, and it pre-loads pressurized oil up into the engine to prevent cold-start wear, and refills itself from your oil pump once pressure is up. Then when you're driving, if there's any sudden loss of oil pressure, a pressure-sensitive valve automatically opens and maintains pressure using the sump for a few seconds until your oil pump recovers (and then refills itself for the next hit). This happens if you corner or accel hard enough that the oil in the oilpan goes up the side wall and leaves the oil pump pickup tube sucking dry. I'm not sure if I'm willing to go that far, but it's pretty cool stuff. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-15-2009, 09:45 AM	#7 (permalink)
isaacssk Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: IN Posts: 2 Drives: 2019 Base Auto Rep Power: 17	Where? is the most conveinent/cost effective place or virtual place to get these items ??? Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them". I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really). Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling: FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
how many miles for the 1st oil change?	mattkim85	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	75	04-11-2010 08:42 PM
Request: DIY Oil Change	355890	DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself)	60	05-19-2009 09:54 PM
First Oil Change	cotizi	Engine & Drivetrain	3	03-27-2009 11:34 AM
Time change	shumby	The Lounge (Off Topic)	0	03-08-2009 06:14 AM
powdercoating just to change color?	mattkim85	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	2	03-02-2009 03:08 PM

04-15-2009, 10:31 AM	#9 (permalink)
isaacssk Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: IN Posts: 2 Drives: 2019 Base Auto Rep Power: 17	THanks! will probably add a magnetic plug as well. I didnt know if there was a preferred forum sponsor who dealt with maintenance items like these. I guess you cant pick up Motul at big box stores.

04-09-2009, 07:52 PM	#11 (permalink)
gpa7pk Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 135 Drives: 1959 Triumph TR3A Rep Power: 17	The Amsoil EA012 oil filter should be considered. The filter mesh design is the better current design.