Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z It's good, but is it better than Royal Purple? That's sooooo subjective I have no l no clue where to start. You can join Bob
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04-08-2009, 01:57 AM | #16 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2009, 02:07 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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I am not a fan of moving swiftly into a synthetic oil as I subscribe the notion of letting the engine part get to know one another a bit longer with some miles put between them. That being said these engines are built at much higher tolerances than their old school predecessors. Personally, I am waiting until 5,000 miles to switch to synthetics, changing the initial oil at the 1,500 miles; I will be using either Mobil1 Extended or Castrol Edge (I haven't decided yet). The reason for the ester based oils that you are seeking is that others with a G37 had top-end noises supposedly resulting from the oil not clinging, hence, the ester. However, I say that is result of improper engine oil circulation and galley design, and the ester is a workaround.
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04-08-2009, 02:13 AM | #18 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2009, 02:22 AM | #19 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2009, 02:26 AM | #20 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2009, 02:42 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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I believe the claims about the VVEL needing something special (such as the recommended Esters in the G37, or perhaps other equivalent methods of getting a good lube film of some kind to really stick on them). Even though I'm using the Nissan Ester stuff for break-in, what I hear on cold starts makes me cringe. It takes a solid 15+ seconds after cold startup before the tell-tale change in cylinder head noises that indicates full lubrication up there (which reminds me to make a point about allowing an overnight-cold car to properly lube itself before driving to extend engine life).
Good oil is worth the investment in my opinion, and something with esters in it is staying in mine, at least until I feel like I've researched this enough to have a firm grasp on the issue. |
04-08-2009, 11:20 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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Well all I can say is never trust the dealership.
I took my 370z in to the dealership at 1500 miles and I specifically told him not to put in synthetic. Then the maintenance supervisor enthusiastically tells me the car has been serviced with synethetic oil when I pick up the car. I started complaining and he tells me all Z, even the 350's come synthetic from factory. Yarrrr |
04-08-2009, 11:40 AM | #24 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2009, 02:43 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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I hadn't considered it for the Z yet, no. There are ways to go crazy and get the perfect oil system. There's another system I've seen that acts as both a pre-oiler and a pressure reservoir (in case the oil pump's pickup tube goes dry in a high-G corner) that was really slick, but I can't seem to remember the name or find it right now.
On the other hand, even the thought of an external oil cooler has me slightly paranoid about eventually having an oil line or connection blowout. I'm not sure how many oil accessories I want to daisy chain into the system. |
04-08-2009, 02:56 PM | #27 (permalink) | |
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The oil manufacturers all have their own best interests at heart (how can I sell more of whatever I'm selling at a decent profit margin). The car manufacturers are primarily concerned with preventing warranty repairs (and thus primarily focused on making your engine last until the warranty expires and no further). The manufacturer also has to take environmental ******** concerns into what they recommend in the manual. You'll notice the Service Manual's recommendation for oil changes between North America and the rest of the world. It's because we have different emissions and fuel economy standards (which IMHO should be your very last concern when considering your oil). The dealership is pretty much in the same boat as the car mfg, and also trying to increase the cost of oil changes to you, while decreasing their own service costs. There's probably a handful of guys who work in oil research labs and at Nissan who know *exactly* what the best oil formulation is for this engine for the best cooling and engine wear characteristics, but they don't get to say it publicly. The only person on our side is us, and most of us don't really have the knowledge to make a completely scientific decision. So go read bobistheoilguy, get even more confused, and do the best you can. For the first few thousand miles, conventional wisdom plus random smatterings of info about the VQ37VHR says the safest bet is to pay $12/qt for Nissan Ester 5W30. Odds are higher there are superior and cheaper solutions, but good luck getting a definitive answer that isn't full of (possibly mis-/under- informed) opinions (like mine ). |
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04-08-2009, 03:06 PM | #28 (permalink) | |
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Synthetics oil are superior to dino when you get around to changing the oil yourself. Synthetics stand-up to heat far better than dino, and since owners are having heat issues with the 370Z—when run hard—synthetics are your best bet.
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04-08-2009, 03:23 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2009, 03:40 PM | #30 (permalink) | |
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Edit: Just to be 100% clear, I'm not saying wait until 5000 miles to do your first oil change. Do your first oil change at 1500 miles, and replace the drain plug with a magnetic one if you can. For that first oil change, refill it with Nissan Ester Oil. Then at 5000 miles, do your second oil change and switch over to synthetic, preferably one that is ester-based as ester bonds to the metal, which is what enhances lubricity at start-up.
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