Oil Change

semtex · 04-08-2009, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I ordered the "MAG-1", which is M12x1.25 thread. Sounds like the right one to me, haven't received/installed it yet.

You've ordered the correct one. I installed mine on Saturday and it fits perfectly.

OnCallZ · 04-08-2009, 09:14 PM

5W30 is recommended, unfortunately the dealership I went to get my first change didn't completely tighten something and I found an oil puddle under my car, drove it back to the dealership and they changed it again, this time without any leaks.

ChrisSlicks · 04-08-2009, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OnCallZ

5W30 is recommended, unfortunately the dealership I went to get my first change didn't completely tighten something and I found an oil puddle under my car, drove it back to the dealership and they changed it again, this time without any leaks.

Either they didn't replace the crush washer or they really screwed up torquing the drain plug.

armensti · 04-09-2009, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

Use conventional oil with an ester additive for the first 5000 -- that's what the Nissan Ester Oil is. Then switch over to an ester-based synthetic, like Motul 300V. That's what I'm doing anyway.

Edit: Just to be 100% clear, I'm not saying wait until 5000 miles to do your first oil change. Do your first oil change at 1500 miles, and replace the drain plug with a magnetic one if you can. For that first oil change, refill it with Nissan Ester Oil. Then at 5000 miles, do your second oil change and switch over to synthetic, preferably one that is ester-based as ester bonds to the metal, which is what enhances lubricity at start-up.

im planing on taking it to the dealer and getting conventional oil and after 3000 miles or so ill do an oil change and switch it to motul.

tvfreakazoid · 04-09-2009, 03:41 AM

What about oil filter? What do you guys recommend?

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

You've ordered the correct one. I installed mine on Saturday and it fits perfectly.

ZzzZz · 04-09-2009, 03:52 AM

I was going to go with Purolator PureOne for the filter but I've read somewhere that although OEM might have worse filter material, its spec'd as the engine was designed for (maintaing a certain level of oil pressure mainly). So you might want to go with OEM for now until there's more research done.

I know for Mobil1 some people will go with a different filter than what Mobil lists because of bigger/better filter and materials but the specs aren't in line with the original design. I haven't come across a filter which matches OEM specs with better filter media but if anyone on this board knows or is more knowledgeable on the subject, please chime in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid

What about oil filter? What do you guys recommend?

semtex · 04-09-2009, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Either they didn't replace the crush washer or they really screwed up torquing the drain plug.

Or they didn't properly tighten the oil filter. That'd cause a leak as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid

What about oil filter? What do you guys recommend?

I put a K&N on. The part number is HP1008, should you choose to go with K&N as well. Mobil1 filters are also good. In fact, their internals are pretty much identical to K&N. The only real difference between them is that the outside of the K&Ns have an integrated 'nut' on the end that allows you to use a normal wrench for installation and removal instead of an oil filter wrench. Anyway, if you go with Mobil1, then you want part number M1-108.

ChrisSlicks · 04-09-2009, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

Or they didn't properly tighten the oil filter. That'd cause a leak as well.

Possible, but it would have to be very loose or they didn't lube the O-ring.

semtex · 04-09-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Possible, but it would have to be very loose or they didn't lube the O-ring.

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

wstar · 04-09-2009, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZzzZz

I was going to go with Purolator PureOne for the filter but I've read somewhere that although OEM might have worse filter material, its spec'd as the engine was designed for (maintaing a certain level of oil pressure mainly). So you might want to go with OEM for now until there's more research done.

I know for Mobil1 some people will go with a different filter than what Mobil lists because of bigger/better filter and materials but the specs aren't in line with the original design. I haven't come across a filter which matches OEM specs with better filter media but if anyone on this board knows or is more knowledgeable on the subject, please chime in.

Hopefully the filter isn't what's maintaining the correct oil pressure for the engine. All good filters have bypass valves in case they get clogged, and our oil pump has a regulator to prevent overpressure.

OnCallZ · 04-09-2009, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

Yeah It was always in the back of my mind, just never thought it would happen to me. I usually get down and dirty with my vehicles but this time I decided to cut some corners and do the free oil change

wstar · 04-09-2009, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

It's not 21, It's 16 bolts and 3 snaps

, there's 6x 10mm with phillips heads along the front, 3 of the same down each side, 4 slightly different ones (no phillips, but still 10mm) along the back, and then 3 snaps in a row through the middle. I've learned it by heart now, I think I've taken that thing off like 8 times already. Last time I didn't even jack the car up, I just laid down on the floor by the front bumper, reached under, and did it blind by feel.

semtex · 04-09-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

It's not 21, It's 16 bolts and 3 snaps

, there's 6x 10mm with phillips heads along the front, 3 of the same down each side, 4 slightly different ones (no phillips, but still 10mm) along the back, and then 3 snaps in a row through the middle. I've learned it by heart now, I think I've taken that thing off like 8 times already. Last time I didn't even jack the car up, I just laid down on the floor by the front bumper, reached under, and did it blind by feel.

Okay fine, it's 19 things that might not get put back right instead of 21. It's still enough of a PITA to make me worry that some service tech might get lazy and not bother with putting them all back right.

SoCal 370Z · 04-09-2009, 08:17 PM

It would be interesting to pull the oil drain plug and determine whether it has been oversized?

wstar · 04-09-2009, 08:18 PM

Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them".

I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really).

Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling:

FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

And if you guys really want to get crazy, this is the kind of thing I was think of the other day in that other thread (re: pre-oilers):

AccuSump - With the right set of options and so-on, this acts as both a pre-oiler and an extra pressure sump. You give it power before cranking your cold engine, and it pre-loads pressurized oil up into the engine to prevent cold-start wear, and refills itself from your oil pump once pressure is up. Then when you're driving, if there's any sudden loss of oil pressure, a pressure-sensitive valve automatically opens and maintains pressure using the sump for a few seconds until your oil pump recovers (and then refills itself for the next hit). This happens if you corner or accel hard enough that the oil in the oilpan goes up the side wall and leaves the oil pump pickup tube sucking dry.

I'm not sure if I'm willing to go that far, but it's pretty cool stuff.

04-09-2009, 08:17 PM	#59 (permalink)
SoCal 370Z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: US of A Posts: 2,842 Drives: Answers Rep Power: 33	It would be interesting to pull the oil drain plug and determine whether it has been oversized? __________________ ( Click to show/hide ) Why I NEVER say NO to the Panda Lou Fusz!!!

04-09-2009, 08:18 PM	#60 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them". I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really). Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling: FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something. And if you guys really want to get crazy, this is the kind of thing I was think of the other day in that other thread (re: pre-oilers): AccuSump - With the right set of options and so-on, this acts as both a pre-oiler and an extra pressure sump. You give it power before cranking your cold engine, and it pre-loads pressurized oil up into the engine to prevent cold-start wear, and refills itself from your oil pump once pressure is up. Then when you're driving, if there's any sudden loss of oil pressure, a pressure-sensitive valve automatically opens and maintains pressure using the sump for a few seconds until your oil pump recovers (and then refills itself for the next hit). This happens if you corner or accel hard enough that the oil in the oilpan goes up the side wall and leaves the oil pump pickup tube sucking dry. I'm not sure if I'm willing to go that far, but it's pretty cool stuff. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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04-08-2009, 09:14 PM	#47 (permalink)
OnCallZ Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 108 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 16	5W30 is recommended, unfortunately the dealership I went to get my first change didn't completely tighten something and I found an oil puddle under my car, drove it back to the dealership and they changed it again, this time without any leaks.