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Hey guys. I'm on vacation back in the states, and I've had the GTM differential cooler kit sitting around my garage. It has a shroud, core, AN fittings and steel
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#1 (permalink) |
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Hey guys. I'm on vacation back in the states, and I've had the GTM differential cooler kit sitting around my garage. It has a shroud, core, AN fittings and steel braided lines, SPAL fan control module, and pump. It's a great kit, although it costs as much as it is a quality item. My question is, has anyone done this install yet? Any tips? I think the install will be fairly straight forward, it's the power to the controller that I'm concerned about. As I bought this kit about a year ago, it was, I think, the second one out, and there wasn't any installation guide or anything. I called GTM, and they are going to get back with me, but does anyone have experience to share? TravisJB? lol
GTM Motorsports*::*FINAL DRIVE - AXLES*::*GTM Differential Cooler Kit GTM Motorsports*::*FINAL DRIVE - AXLES*::*GTM Differential Cooler Shroud kit GTM Motorsports*::*FINAL DRIVE - AXLES*::*GTM Differential Temp Cooler Controller kit
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I havent gotten the chance to try it out yet. This is a pretty hardcore item so not many will have input. GTM is going to be your best bet and since you already called them they should be getting back to you with an answer soon
![]() Mike
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thanks for the input Mike Reagen
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Having track and road raced Z's more than probably anyone around..... I can tell you that honestly there is no need whatsoever for a differential cooler on about 98.9999% of the cars out there.... Unless you are doing endurance racing for 12+ hours on end, non stop, there is no need for a diff cooler. In fact, most of the time the differential will work better and rob less power from the drive train once the fluid is heated up to the operating temperatures.... I have NEVER seen a differential problem caused by over heating the fluid on these cars.
So to say a diff cooler is overkill would be a huge understatement. In most cases it would be counter productive as well as being just one other thing to have a problem with (leaky fittings, bad fan, bad relay, blown fuse, etc.) to be honest. Last edited by Scott @ RA; 03-04-2011 at 01:07 AM. |
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Also, I talked to GTM in February, and they promised a quick how to guide, didn't get anything a week later, so they re promised. Now it's almost the 2nd week of March, lol.
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Hey Equinox, I can make and sell you a manual transmission cooler kit....... or maybe even a brake fluid recirculater (cooler) as long as you are in the market for things like this... ![]() ![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() Good luck and if for some crazy reason you do decide to install this thing, I wish you luck with it. ![]() Last edited by Scott @ RA; 03-06-2011 at 04:43 AM. |
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I'll take a transmission cooler if your mom is still wanting to get a ride in a nismo. I'll have to gusset the tire trailer tow bar though, only has a max rating of 500 lbs. ![]()
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I got 2 diff blown from overheating 1 from my previous 350z and the one I had rebuilt by a professional known guys in Toronto. and my OEM 370z had to come back on earlier this year. so my next must have mod is gonna be a diff cooler for next year ! I am not TT or SC just NA power ! |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Unfortunately, this is just not correct. We were on the track this weekend, and the rear diff had a failure(I will elaborate in a bit). The car has a cat back exhaust and out prototype intakes. The tire/wheel combo is 18x10et20 on all 4. The tires are Toyo R888 255(f) and 295(r)s. Ambient temp in the 80s'.
I was able to run the first 20 minutes with out incident. The second session I started to push the car a little more, say 75% to the limit. The car started to get a little loose on turn in and hard braking. Once I pulled off the track you could smell the fluid. The diff was also making a ton of noise on light turning in the pits/garage area. You could feel the wheel try to lock up. Basically, the oil got so hot it melted the drain plug magnet. When fluid gets that hot, it loses its viscosity. The OS Giken diff then did not know how to lock the plates correctly, and we had to end the race weekend. The bearings and races looked good, but the bearing in the final drive assy is binding from excessive heat. We are in the process of making a kit, but I would encourage anyone who is planning on tracking the car....get a cooler solution ASAP. Quote:
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Same here, Ambient temp was in the mid 90s'.Diff was acting weird on my second session on the fifth lap pushing really hard. went back to the pit and what you just explain happened to me.
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Car drives like nothing happened to it. I just had to go down from 5 laps to only 2-3 flying laps. I give the OS diff 10/10. for taking that much beating. the rest of my mods is in my sig. Ya a diff cooler is a must if your going to track your car regulary.
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Turns out the diff is OK. Strangely enough, the oil seal near the front of the diff(where it connects to the driveshaft) had melted out of spec and was causing the final drive to bind up a bit. Once the seal was out, the assembly rotated freely. I did not have to swap the bearings.
I HIGHLY recommend the OS Giken fluid for their diff. It has a 250 weight rating. This is DRAMATICALLY different from the Motul 75 140. the Motul is a fantastic fluid, but it just can not match the viscosity of the OS Giken fluid. The OS unit is very reliant on the oil to lock the diff properly, so I would stick with the OS stuff for anyone using this unit. On a side note, the guys at OS said many people have overheated the diff and they withstand the abuse. So if you have overheated it, there is a very good chance you are OK. just get the cooler on there and change the fluid asap. Thanks guys. John
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I might see the benefits if you're a hardcore drifter or endurance racer, otherwise it's useless.
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