crackcase vent filters??

O&G · 02-29-2012, 10:57 PM

All I know is if you use breather filters on the crankcase ventilation intake ports, as opposed to using the silicon hose to connect it to the intake runner and your F.I., under boost oil will flow out the filter and down onto your exhaust manifolds! No bueno. N/A should be OK though.

BigT · 03-01-2012, 04:24 PM

I've run two diff catch setup's in my old turbo mitsubishi's.

First, I ran a ventilated catchcan. While this seamed to work, motor would puke out more oil than I wanted it to which would cause that nice mayo build up in the can. While it wasn't a horrible thing, twice the can filled up too much and shot the little air filter into the air. Also, I ran no pvc with this setup as the intake manifold would injest air from the little filters during idle and sometimes cruise. This reaked havic when trying to get the car to idle with large injectors and cams.

Then, I built my own "recirculated" catch can. It was actualy a dual can setup and also ran no pcv valve. Instead, I ran one large line from the valve cover to a 150psi one- way air check-valve, then from that valve to a sealed can, and finally to the intake manifold. This helped with keeping solid vacuum in the valve cover during cruise and idle. The sealed can kept any contaminents (oil, mayo, boogers, etc) out of the intake manifold. The other sealed can was connected to the valve cover with two smaller lines, followed by a third fitting to the air intake. (not intake manifold)

During cruise and idle, the makeshift pvc system used vacuum from the intake manifold to draw out nasty vapors and fuel back into the intake manifold to re-burn. (just as a stock PCV setup would do, but better as it would not leak boost, more on that later) I never had a tuning issues while running this. A properly running engine should not produce enough "blow-by gases" to cause any problems.

When going WOT, the air intake tract would create a ton of vacuum. At this point the intake manifold would fill with boost and the 1-way check valve would close. The vacuum from the intake pipe would pull gases out of the valve cover.

One thing I noticed after using the dual can setup, the cans filled up much much slower. Was the system flawed? Absolutely not. What it did do was create enough vacuum and at the right times to "draw" or "pull" the nasty stuff out, instead of letting the engine "push" out anything and everything - (engine oil).

02-29-2012, 10:57 PM	#16 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	All I know is if you use breather filters on the crankcase ventilation intake ports, as opposed to using the silicon hose to connect it to the intake runner and your F.I., under boost oil will flow out the filter and down onto your exhaust manifolds! No bueno. N/A should be OK though. __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Stinky Vent Smell	Strangler	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	22	03-10-2014 03:36 PM
GPS Antenna Mount On Defroster Vent?	G Fo12ce	Audio & Video	4	10-24-2010 10:43 PM
Bike went down today "VENT"	bigaudiofanat	The Lounge (Off Topic)	25	04-15-2010 11:03 AM
Tsb: Various nissan models; vent control valve replacement	AK370Z	370Z Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) / Recalls	0	02-08-2010 11:24 PM

03-01-2012, 04:24 PM	#17 (permalink)
BigT Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 469 Drives: 98 2g DSM Rep Power: 13	I've run two diff catch setup's in my old turbo mitsubishi's. First, I ran a ventilated catchcan. While this seamed to work, motor would puke out more oil than I wanted it to which would cause that nice mayo build up in the can. While it wasn't a horrible thing, twice the can filled up too much and shot the little air filter into the air. Also, I ran no pvc with this setup as the intake manifold would injest air from the little filters during idle and sometimes cruise. This reaked havic when trying to get the car to idle with large injectors and cams. Then, I built my own "recirculated" catch can. It was actualy a dual can setup and also ran no pcv valve. Instead, I ran one large line from the valve cover to a 150psi one- way air check-valve, then from that valve to a sealed can, and finally to the intake manifold. This helped with keeping solid vacuum in the valve cover during cruise and idle. The sealed can kept any contaminents (oil, mayo, boogers, etc) out of the intake manifold. The other sealed can was connected to the valve cover with two smaller lines, followed by a third fitting to the air intake. (not intake manifold) During cruise and idle, the makeshift pvc system used vacuum from the intake manifold to draw out nasty vapors and fuel back into the intake manifold to re-burn. (just as a stock PCV setup would do, but better as it would not leak boost, more on that later) I never had a tuning issues while running this. A properly running engine should not produce enough "blow-by gases" to cause any problems. When going WOT, the air intake tract would create a ton of vacuum. At this point the intake manifold would fill with boost and the 1-way check valve would close. The vacuum from the intake pipe would pull gases out of the valve cover. One thing I noticed after using the dual can setup, the cans filled up much much slower. Was the system flawed? Absolutely not. What it did do was create enough vacuum and at the right times to "draw" or "pull" the nasty stuff out, instead of letting the engine "push" out anything and everything - (engine oil).