mine does it too. i got Berk HFCs and Stillen G3.

It did it when i had my AEM intake too but not as much as with the Stillen.

I think it's got something to do with the CCV pipe barb on the Stillen tubes being narrower than the stock one. The AEM barbs are a little larger in diameter.

When i had just the HFCs, i dont think i can recall it happening.
i have done several versions of the throttle body idle relearn procedure, and the frequency of the idle dip has reduced a bit. The motor does seem harder to feather when reversing for example - ie it feels like it's easier to stall.

Yeah I believe it could be the G3's. I caught the engine dropping RPMs with the A/C off too so it's not that. Still need to check the MAF.

yesterday i dug out the stock accordion pipes and measured the ccv fittings.

RHS (US passenger side) had a 16mm opening to accept the ccv resonator barb, with a restrictor cast into the bottom of it nearest the fresh air stream. approximate diameter at this restriction is roughly 13mm (couldnt get caliper in there to measure without destroying the accordion pipe.
The inner diameter of the ccv resonator barb is roughly 13mm

LHS (US driver's side) has a helmholtz style resonator mated to a 16mm opening.
This accordion pipe also has a 16mm opening to accept the ccv resonator barb. There is no restrictor on this side, it's 16mm straight thru. Inner diameter of this side's ccv resonator barb is also roughly 13mm.

Now, the Stillen G3 features 12.5mm barbs on both sides.
AEM has 13mm on both sides.

I cut off the barb on the LHS and tig welded on a 15.5mm ID bung. So far it's been alright. I did a idle relearn last night and the idle dip seems to happen more now, but i've been told it needs time to learn and it will improve.

Will report back when something interesting happens.

I have the same issue on occasion, and had the same issue on my G35 sedan which was the reason I sold it. It started out with the dip in idle then progressed to almost completing stalling then would stall. I could never replicate it for the dealer. Not a month after I sold it the technician that tried his hardest to find the problem called me and said Nissan had finally issued a tsb for it. So long ago I can't remember but I can dig up the tsb he emailed me if you want. Cost was $2k in parts alone, something about cams and magnets not sticking when oil temp is warm.

Mine does this only when I have the AC on and I'm stuck in traffic(LA style traffic to be specific) heat soaked like a mofo but once I'm cooled down it stops doing it.

Maybe the same thing is happening to you?

Might be onto something there. (AC was off for me)

I was just stuck in traffic a good 30min. Once I got up to my red light, RPM's started to be a bit fishy, 500 or so teetering on the feeling it was going to stall.

This is a 2013, 6 months old. Never had it in traffic yet this long, bout low 80's for ambient temps.

No hesitation once the light turned green, got it to the driveway, seems to be fine.

Will see whats good tomorrow on the way to work.

Also considered maybe low fuel, but still have 4 dots, no warning lights. I usually fill her up at 3 dots, so tomorrow is the day anyways.

Approx 4,500 miles on the ticker, I wouldn't think there should be any issues this early!

i think its just heatsoak, cause when i was experiencing this, i had well over half a tank of gas, and san diego traffic is never as bad as LA traffic and it was one of the first times i was stuck in legit no one is moving traffic for a couple hours

iirc it was 85 out that day

I've also had the same issue for a while - rpm dip while idling, and I also had another issue once - when I started my car warm, the car didn't catch its idle after starting, and died immediately. I'm thinking it may be spark related? Gonna check those this coming week.

Some of us are getting the hot start issues as well, and mine's probably the GTM tune. I just give it a little gas on startup, and it fires up just fine.

My car is stock and it drops low while idle too.. It's not the mods, it's something else that's cauing it. Fan/AC have no effect on it either...

Bringing this topic back up as I search through the forums here. My car is dipping to 500 or below only when I'm at a complete stop. Even when starting it, it stalls out from time to time. I've taken it to Nissan twice in the past 2 weeks, and what they thought was just some cleaning around the throttle body and fuel injectors didn't seem to be the solution. I have no idea why they can't figure this out.

I do, however, have a Stillen G3 installed and I'm wondering if it has something to do with that.

Any way, has anyone ran into this issue lately and/or has found a solution for this?

i had the same thing, dip to 500 then stumble and back up to 650ish - had the Stillen G3 too. it was one of the fresh air feeds for the crank case ventilation system. I cant remember which side of the Stillen piping though, but if you have digital calipers measure the inside diameter of both fresh air feeds and you'll find one is smaller than the other.

The fix is to saw the small one off, enlarge the hole to suit and weld a new bung with the correct inner diameter onto it. You will need to really wrestle the hose over the new bung though - for some silly reason stillen didnt give reinforced hoses for the ventilation system so they will tear if you aren't careful.

I am having exactly same problem. Just cleaned mag sensor but didn't work out. Any one who can help me with this?

Had the same RPM dip together with slight batter voltage drop when rolling to a stop at neutral (idle drops from 650ish to almost 500 RPM) (mine is 6MT). After a month of trail and error I finally fixed it. I though of sharing my process of elimination.
The RPM drop happened about 3 out of 10 times back when my car was completely stock, but I didn't bother to fix it. Then the problem worsen after I replaced the stock intake to Stillen G3 CAI. It happens almost 90% of the time and I finally decided not to be lazy and treat her right. Thanks to Z family's posts I listed the potential causes and rearranged them in the order of least to most workload:
1) Gas: I used to getting gas from Costco. So I switched to Chevron. Nothing changed after 2 full tanks.
2) MAF sensor: cleaned it throughly and still nothing changed.
3) ECU reset: I thought the RPM drop might be caused by not resetting ECU properly during my install. But i don't want to go thought the hassle to reset power window, radio, service reminder... list goes on. To avoid all that, this is what I did. Most people have seen the crazy "cheat code" and here is one example: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-o...ecu-reset.html
(post #6 by cdoxp800). Tried it but still nothing changed.
4) Throttle body: I was trying my best to avoid this since my CAI requires me to take the front bumper off (yea, once again being lazy). But with options running low I ended up cleaning the throttle body. I used this as my guide: DIY Clean your Throttle Bodies - MyG37
I was surprised how dirty mine are for the millage I have (45K miles). Got lucky and problem fixed!!! Now is day 3 since the fix and haven't had RPM dip with or w/o AC on.
5) O2 sensor or MAP sensor: luckily I got my problem fixed by #4. Otherwise I would of gone through the hassle to put the stock on and take it to the dealer hoping whatever they can find will be covered by warranty.