How did the flywheel and CPS go?

Sorry - I've been out of town. Nissan decided not to perform the repair(s). I received a telephone call from Nissan Arbitration - they are changing their previous decision and are now offering me a 2011 370Z Touring to replace my 2009 370Z Touring. No lease extension, no change in lease payment - just an outright swap for a new comparable vehicle. We are discussing the details of the vehicle swap out. I'll let you know how things turn out. I'm quite surprised by this turn of events. I wrote a letter to the Nissan CEO and Google’d a few of the Nissan Execs. I mailed 5 letters -- Apparently my letter got someone’s attention. They 'may' just retain me as a customer.

Wow. Great news for you, horrible news for the rest of us. LOL

Buyback
 

Thought I'd let everyone know that Nissan decided to buyback the vehicle, and refunded me all of the $$ I spent from the time I reported the issue. They subtracted reasonable use fees (1/2 of the standard mileage rate .51/mile); I turned in the vehicle, they handed me a check for $19K + and that was it. They never did solve the issue. So, good luck to everyone. I'll be leaving the forum.

-Bob

Just another possible source...
Toyota Tacoma with 242k miles has same issue. Need to pop the hood and let it cool for about 15minutes to get it to start. Z seems to retain heat in the engine compartment way better than the Tacoma since the Z's engine compartment is really packed. Haven't fixed it yet but the forums point to the:

Coil
Distributor
Air flow sensor
Air Filter Temp Sensor
Engine coolant sensor
Fuel Pump

Just mention it since the problem seems similar. My guess on mine is it's probably the coil getting old and breaking down slowly over the past 15 years. Just living with it for now since I have a work around (wait with the hood open until it cools down far enough to start)

For the Z, I'd look for anything with a self-resetting thermal fuse in it. Gets too hot and the component won't work till it cools off again. There's usually hysterysis in these fuses so it takes a cooler temp to reset them after they activate.

This was the first thread that led me to this board. My girlfriend's 370 exhibits this behavior. I'm thinking dribbling fuel injectors. If you floor the accelerator while starting (kills the injectors to clear a flooding issue) the car will actually crank and run for about 1 second on residual fuel in the cylinder. If you continue to hold the accelerator on recrank, you get nothing the second time around. It just spins. If on the third crank, you release the accelerator, the engine cranks as if it were cold.

Obviously, this is not how you want to start your car every time, but it js quite useful for diagnostic reasons. I've done this 3 times in the last 2 days, so I'm still diagnosing. The 1-2 hour window between attempts makes this a long diagnostic cycle.

Gear, did you ever correct the issue or bring it to dealer? I still haven't managed to get this fixed. :(

Dj,

I'm in the "diagnostic cycle" of Nissan and at their mercy. They have marked the dipstick to see if the level increases from fuel. Meanwhile, I'm killing the starter and possibly washing the oil and cylinder walls with fuel.

Honestly, my diagnostics seem solid from a truly technical standpoint, but I guess the techs are having trouble following me.

If you hold your pedal to the floor, does your car start and run for a sec and die?

Has anyone found a solution to this problem as yet? It's been going on for a month now for me and its starting to piss me off. I have the same problem as djpheer and bclarke.

If I startup my car in the morning, it starts just fine. After I work my 9 hr shift and then start my car up at work (getting ready to get back home), it feels like battery power is cut and the car wont start. A 2nd try with my left foot on the brakes and right foot revving the gas and it struggles to start, but it finally does start. This issue happens every so often, and I've taken it to the dealer as well. However, they have had a look at it twice and both times they reported no problems. It's frustrating trying to explain the problem to them, as the car usually seems to startup just fine when its at the dealer.

A real PITA situation to be in. I agree with bclarke about it being a real PITA to deal with but there has to be a fix to this problem. Any luck djpheer? Maybe, someone can steer us in the proper direction.

I had the same problem in my 2010 and it is the fuel sending unit. The z's are known for this problem I took mine to the dealership and it is under warranty so they replaced it and no problem since it is great.

[QUOTE=a355725;1455136]Has anyone found a solution to this problem as yet? It's been going on for a month now for me and its starting to piss me off. I have the same problem as djpheer and bclarke.

If I startup my car in the morning, it starts just fine. After I work my 9 hr shift and then start my car up at work (getting ready to get back home), it feels like battery power is cut and the car wont start. A 2nd try with my left foot on the brakes and right foot revving the gas and it struggles to start, but it finally does start. This issue happens every so often, and I've taken it to the dealer as well. However, they have had a look at it twice and both times they reported no problems. It's frustrating trying to explain the problem to them, as the car usually seems to startup just fine when its at the dealer.

A real PITA situation to be in. I agree with bclarke about it being a real PITA to deal with but there has to be a fix to this problem. Any luck djpheer? Maybe, someone can steer us in the proper direction.[/QUOTE

Your problem sounds a bit different from mine. Mine always starts its just rough. And after 9 hours it starts perfectly. Mine seems heat related.only occurs inthat 2 to 3 hour window after sitting. Fairlady can you be more specific? Whatfuel sending unit?

The fuel sending unit tells the engine and ecu that it is sending fuel from the fuels pump to the engine. These units are known to go bad and the dealership will replace them for free. If urs is bad the fuel will not be sent from the pump to the engine which will create the rough start or no start at all. This issue has been addressed by Nissan so it falls under warranty.

For you guys having trouble proving the problem to dealerships, why don't you video the turnover and show it to them?

It's not so much proving it its that they dont know how to fix it!

I think we are getting close with the engine temperature sensor. It HAS to be something with temps. My reasoning: On a hot summer day (75 or above), my car starts VERY roughly after it sits for 2 hours. Now that it is cold outside, my car starts up perfectly fine no matter how many or few hours it sits.