I agree with you a 100%.

From post #536 on the previous page:

I stand corrected. Most of the time the fluid swap just band-aids it for a while until it pops up again.

BC
Thinking back maybe it was either the hot Florida Temp. Or the dirty fluid getting flushed out did the trick in my case. There was never any fluid leak visible. The stock setup is close to all kind of hot stuff and the pumping action of the clutch makes all kind of internal crap that you can see in the fluid. I still periodically stick the tube of a windex sprayer down the clutch fluid fill and pump out the dirty fluid into a cup and put some new in. When it was acting up it acted the same as the clutch failure, dropped to the floorboard or went half way down. That's why I think some here might be helped with the service bulletin flush and refill cause they might be boiling over or have contaminated fluid vs an actual failure.


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Just got my car back, a day earlier than expected. All seems well, and the out-the-door total didn't increase (*whew*).

I did, however, fail to anticipate that new clutch = new clutch point. I felt like a newbie stick driver all the way to the office just now. :D :driving:

MAN did I miss my Z!!

No fluid means no lubrication, right? Seems like the problem causes the fluid to leak which reduces pressure which makes sense with pedal not coming back. DOT-4 maybe less viscous (or more depending on the nature of part failure), but changing it adds fluid... which then continues to leak though maybe not as much....

Mine was bone dry when it failed. You would have to check after every stop pretty much to spot it, though.

https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...22&oe=55E9F5A2

2009 Sport/Touring
VIN: #2001
Purchase Date: 02/24/15
Occurrence Date: 6/6/15
Occurrence Mileage: 31075
Clutch Type: OEM

Summary:
- Around 04/15, After work I stopped at red light that was at a decent incline that goes over the freeway, I got going and the clutch pedal didn't pop back up immediately. It just revved until it grabbed... I got to my destination which was about a mile away and left it for a few hours. Drove fine after...
-06/06/15 Drove 60 miles to go on a date... Picked up my date and got about 2 miles down and noticed the clutch pedal wasn't coming back up more than an inch... It was just enough to get it to go but it stalled several times before that. 1st and 2nd gear wasn't easy to get in to... Got it to a parking lot and called "AAA" waited 2.5 hours and the date was ruined. As we pushed it back to get it on the tow truck I noticed oil on the ground.

Conclusion:
6/14 Confirmed the clutch slave cylinder is the cause, Carmax's warranty approved of the repair to the tune of $760 using OEM parts.

6/17 Complaint filed on the NHTSA website where several other complaints from people explain the same issue along with the common steering lock failure.

Oh man that's terrible. I feel your pain. I recently had same problem. My Z is still out of service. After reading many others post on the forum I decided to go with HD CSC. I'm not going to keep spending money & drive in fear of being stranded with another OEM CSC. I took the advice of others and ordered a HD CSC from Z Speed Performance. I haven't read of anyone having problems with it. I'm also replacing the CMC & adding the Insulated Short Stainless Clutch Hose. You should check Z Speed and get your order in quick for HD CSC as they go fast. Contact Joe at Z Speed.

I might be SOL, I have "maxcare" from carmax (extended warranty) and I've heard they're a pain in the *** to deal with, Especially towards the mechanic shops (takes a few days to even get anything approved to get done)... So a few shops are willing to deal with them. I'm going to have to ask them which shops do they prefer and choose from there. I'm aiming for my friends shop or the nissan dealership. It's a 60 month 100K mile warranty.

You are not alone! Dealerships in my area will NOT install aftermarket HD CSC's. OEM CSC's are a 3-5 day wait at Nissan Dealerships here in Maryland area. There is a wait for HD CSC too, because so many Z owners are switching to these. I just could not in good conscious throw money down the "OEM CSC Hole" anymore. I'll bite the bullet, do without my pride & joy "Z", and hold out to wait for the HD CSC to be shipped to me from Z Speed. It's a decision of either "Pay now for OEM and often for that choice, or wait for HD CSC pay more for a quality product and have piece of mind". It's unbelievably frustrating that so many 350Z & 370Z owners have had this same problem and Nissan fails to address it.

There were actually later models of the 350Z where they did address it and put an external slave cylinder on the outside of the transmission. My understanding is this was the inspiration and design basis for the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit.

So fuck Nissan even harder for having a solution at one point and then reverting back to the old shitty one :mad: :shakes head:

I looked at the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit on their site. I liked what I read but one line from their site gave me caution & I quote their post: "Because of the very narrow window in which this product was designed to function as a bolt on solution, this product may require adjustment through the life of the clutch." - I like to read more feedback from Z owners who converted and how system has operated over time.

I have a 2009 BMW 328I that I can ride around in and if I so choose, I can get a rental car and be reimbursed for it... I'm hoping to not be out of the Z for more than a week but you do have me thinking. I talked to the guy at the warranty place and seemed nice enough and after describing that the pedal just went limp, there was fluid on the ground and my reservoir is bone dry that it is either the CSC or master cylinder... He said I can take it to any preferred ASE certified shop, which I can take it to my friends shop (tri-valley autocare in Dublin). But they're not open today... I can get him to install aftermarket and most likely i'll just have to pay the difference from OEM to aftermarket. or I can take it to the nearby Nissan dealership where it'll just sit there until Monday anyways.

I had no idea this was a common issue until I was sitting there next to my date googling why my Z doesn't want to cooperate, I was expecting the steering lock issues before anything else... and just at 31K miles, I've had Toyota's and Honda's that went way over that and never had a problem. The Tacoma X-Runner I traded in for my Z gave me 5 years and 90K miles (125k total miles) of completely trouble free service, Just brake pads and rotors once, 2 sets of tires, air filter recharges a few times, 2 cabin filters and many oil changes. :mad:

If it had over 70K miles or if I beat on it more than 5K miles (i don't beat on it often [never hard launched it though]) then I would understand. :shakes head:

I've got one. I did the install myself over a year ago (~17K miles). I've done one adjustment. I check it every time I'm under the car, and at this point expect to do no more than one adjust per 10-20K miles depending on how hard the clutch plate is used during that time. The adjustment is simple, requires minimal tools (jack + stands or ramps needed), and takes very little time if you are already under the car for an oil change or something. I've posted about my experiences with the adjustment in several threads on the matter :tiphat:

I will search for "threads". I'm open to any product that eliminates the frustration of dealing with OEM CSC's. And the idea of a product that I can adjust myself without dealing with a shop is appealing to me. I enjoy working on my Z, and enjoy doing my own maintenance on my vehicle. I got the jack stands, the low profile race ramps, and as Jeff Spicoli said in movie Fast Times At Ridgemont High - "Dude I can fix this. My dad has a awesome set of tools". :roflpuke2: