This pictures are from my 2013 370Z with 7000 miles. I am watching the reservoir fluid color and drain and refill it often. Now I have what looks like metal
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08-25-2016, 05:32 PM | #1591 (permalink) |
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2013 370z
This pictures are from my 2013 370Z with 7000 miles.
I am watching the reservoir fluid color and drain and refill it often. Now I have what looks like metal filings in the fluid that's accumulating on the bottom of the reservoir. Thoughts anyone? |
08-25-2016, 08:48 PM | #1592 (permalink) | |
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08-26-2016, 10:16 AM | #1593 (permalink) |
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Type of debris in the system will vary depending on which clutch material you run as well. Organic will leave the black foamy type stuff, Ceramic will be heavier and lay in the bottom of the reservoir.
CMAK keeps the reservoir spotless
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08-26-2016, 01:09 PM | #1594 (permalink) |
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This is mine after 1 yr and ~7800 miles. Did a clutch line flush last july using valvoline dot 3/4 fluid. There's a thin layer of that dark sludge at the bottom.
Here's a close up pic taken in the day time. Dark honey colored. Flushed it out with prestone dot 4 this time. We'll see what it looks like in 3 months. Nice and clear now. Did a combo of gravity bleed + traditional to finish it off. Went through about 3/4 of a 12 oz bottle. What's odd is probably 90% of those 7800 miles were mostly highway. I'd expect there to be more debris with greater city driving.
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08-28-2016, 02:08 PM | #1595 (permalink) |
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My 2009 370z that I just purchased had a CSC failure the other day. I put 2k miles on it the past month and the other day the pedal went soft, stuck to the floor and would only engage 1/4 of the way off the floor. It would go back and forth between being OK and being off on the drive home. I checked the fluid level and it was dark and dirty and well below the minimum as well. Good thing I have a warranty on it but if they're only going to replace it, I think I'll be getting the Z1 delete for it.... no reason to risk it IMO.
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08-28-2016, 03:25 PM | #1596 (permalink) | |
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08-28-2016, 04:01 PM | #1597 (permalink) |
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For the past 2k miles there was no issue and the change was very sudden. And there shouldn't be a fluid loss at all... The fluid being all dark and discolored makes me think that it was contaminated post failure as well. No leaking at the master would mean that the CSC is the culprit. Clutch was fine with zero slipping issues as well when it occurred.
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09-06-2016, 07:35 PM | #1598 (permalink) | |
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I've had my 2016 about 3 months.... my fluid is just as dark as that picture... Something might happen soon. |
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09-18-2016, 07:17 PM | #1599 (permalink) |
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Mine just went out.
2010 370 Nismo with 51000 miles. I'm going to install the Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit with a new RBM Performance Clutch Master Cylinder. That should end the problem for good.
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09-27-2016, 05:37 PM | #1601 (permalink) |
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Not sure if this has been posted before, but I found this over on the Mustang forum. Maybe BS, maybe not, but for those concerned I figured I'd share:
Removal of Clutch Assist Spring Damaging Slave Cylinder? I got an email today from Steeda advertising an aftermarket clutch spring with 95lb/in spring stiffness rate compared to OEM 200 lb/in spring stiffness rate. And they state the following: "Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position." |
09-27-2016, 06:13 PM | #1602 (permalink) | |
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09-28-2016, 10:04 AM | #1603 (permalink) | |
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This can hold pressure on the clutch itself possibly causing it to slip and will wear on the CSC bearing as it could have more pressure than normal on it all the time. If you just get rid of the stock clutch/stock hydraulics with a proper quality set-up there is no need for aftermarket pedal springs to cover up the horrible stock clutch. A good quality clutch and hydraulics the pedal feel is very good and drives 1000 times better.
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09-28-2016, 04:08 PM | #1604 (permalink) |
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Joe, not sure I can agree with that. The main component responsible for pedal return is the pressure plate. After all, that's what the slave is pushing against to disengage the clutch. The pressure plate requires *a lot* of force to depress. I really don't see how a little spring in the pedal itself can aid in pedal return.
I suppose in some applications there's a port in the MC to aid fluid pressure equalization as the clutch fluid expands/contracts. Are you suggesting this may cause pressure to be applied to the slave without any pressure on the pedal itself?
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