2014 with 20,000 miles (bought new 1 year ago). Yesterday I shifted gears and the clutch only came half way back up. I was able to pull it back up with my foot and made it home fine having to pull the clutch up with my foot a few times....... This morning it is driving fine and not sticking half way or all the way down.

I want to take it to the dealer but if they can't recreate the problem what is the point? It definitely is not as stiff as it was when it was new but afraid they will just replace the fluid.

How long were you driving for before it happened? In traffic/long distance?

I was on the interstate for about an hour. It happened about 40 minutes into my hour drive. Not much stop and go traffic other than an accident on the interstate so went through about 5-10 minutes of stop and go in 1st and 2nd gear.

Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures
 

You got it done for free but did he mention how much a standard fluid change was. I'm having issues but doesn't appear of any fluid loss so it's either the cms or old fluid. Going to do the fluid change soon then see how it acts

I think I'm now victim to this issue. I was driving home saturday night and my pedal went spongy. I was able to get it home, the pedal didn't drop to the floor and there was no actual loss in pressure, but now the pedal is grabbing much higher than normal. I dropped the car off last night at the dealer to see what they say. Anyone else have a similar issue where the pedal went spongy but still had a pedal? Just doesn't make too much sense to me as to how that could be. I just hope they don't say that it's the actual clutch.

This just happened to me a few weeks ago. The pedal went spongy then went totally out. I brought the car back to my shop bled the system and everything was good for 500 miles, then the same thing. Bled the system again and went 300 miles until finally my CSC blew out completely.

Definitely first signs of CSC failure. The dealer will either 1) Say its normal and send you on your way (because "some" of them are a-holes) and 2) They will drain the fluid and fill it up with "GTR fluid" which technically its just a Band-Aid to the problem.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm hoping the fact that the service advisor was my old boss at one point, that he'll go to bat for me and hook me up. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I also have an issue where there's an intermittent tapping that you can feel in the clutch pedal when sitting idle. You can feel sort of a "tap tap tap" in the pedal when you slightly depress it. I've complained about this before but I was told the clutch operation was normal and they sent me packing.

Actually that is the master failing. The CSC typically fails catastrophically. The master often fails (causing the soft pedal) and then pressure returns or the system can be bled to return pressure. When one of them fails completely, the pedal will go to the floor and pressure will not return.

However, the failing internal seals in the master can allow contaminants by the seals and into the sealed clutch system. These contaminants cause additional wear on the internal CSC parts which are are already prone to failure. When a master seal slips, fresh fluid is the best counter to the extra risk of failure due to the contaminants introduced. But as you can see from elhombre's post, even that doesn't necessarily help.

wat about wen the pedal pulsates ?

What about it?

Head over to the nearest Honda dealer and trade in your Z ASAP! Do it now! Go! Go! Go!

Yes, I have had same issue. This is my 2nd time around for this problem. 1st time, pedal went to floor and stayed there! I then had a new CMC, Heavy Duty CSC, heat shielded insulated clutch lines and GTR Fluid installed. Also upgraded clutch & installed solid billet steel flywheel (19lbs).
All was good until hot summer weather arrived.
2nd time I had problems, clutch pedal spongy, slow to return, and then I had to pull pedal up with foot to get it to return. 90° plus outside temp, & I was in a traffic back-up from beach.
Made it home. Checked clutch fluid level, it was good, but fluid noticeably darker in color.
Note I do have aftermarket 3" dual exhaust (header back). I think a lot of heat is transferred from them.
Car sat in garage 2 days. I went for drive and clutch was fine, for awhile. But after about 40+ minutes of driving, clutch problem arrouse again.
If I "granny shift" car, with no high rpm, I can get by longer, but that defeats purpose of why I bought the car.
I'm considering the CSC elimination kit, but not sure of fit with after market exhausts.

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I just got off the phone with the dealer and they're trying to tell me that it's my clutch and that nothing is covered under my warranties. Understandable since it's a wearable item, but it's obnoxious since I've had it in for this same concern and was told that my clutch operation is totally normal. I think a call to Nissan corporate is going to be in the cards for this guy. I'm beyond pissed!!

It's not your clutch! It's a design flaw with the CSC, which will eventually cause your CMC to also fail.
Some who have posted here had very good Dealerships that did not include the CSC as a wearable part. I was not so lucky.
Check color of hydraulic fluid; is it showing signs of small dark/black specks in fluid?
I suggest finding a reputable mechanic that will flush old fluid & replace with a better grade of heat resistant hydraulic fluid. If you are seeing specks in fluid, it could mean the plastic fittings within your CSC are breaking down.
Remember, if you must replace either CMC or CSC, it's best to bite the bullet and do both at same time. Go with Heavy Duty CSC over stock, but keep in mind it's better but not perfect. As I am having problems still.
I think I must go with some type of CSC elimination kit. If heat is cooking my CSC now I can just imagine if I install twin turbo the heat will be even higher.

Get "AAA", because the CSC can fail at anytime without warning and leave you stranded!

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