Failed oil consumption test

cab83_750 · 08-21-2010, 05:28 PM

I failed the test and the Thousand Oaks dealer got'eme a new engine.

Crazy8 · 08-21-2010, 07:46 PM

I broke my engine in fairly hard from the day I got it. I haven't had any problems yet. Knock on wood.

sonic370 · 08-21-2010, 07:50 PM

I'm know nothing about building engines and won't claim to.
I bought my 09 with 25 miles on it and drive it normal it's never
been redlined or past a 110. It's now at 6700 miles had two mobil 1
oil changes and has never had oil added in between changes.

I feel for the guys with this problem it's gotta suck.
But IMHO these engines shouldn't burn oil under "normal conditions"

Now under adverse conditions like tracking and dogging the crap at of it
i can't say.

Mt Tam I am · 08-21-2010, 08:55 PM

Thank you all for the advice. I like the entire crate engine idea best, even though Nissan wants to try a short block solution instead. But they have not internally inspected the parts. Hence, my gut tells me replacing the entire engine makes more sense. You guys seem to be suggesting that as well. Can somebody please coach me on how to convince the service manager to replace the entire engine. I sense they are reluctant to do this. Advice?

Mike · 08-21-2010, 08:57 PM

when nissan replaced my engine in my 350z for the exact same problem, they replaced the entire long block. but that was 6 years ago.

BeachZTT · 08-21-2010, 10:09 PM

Back to the OP... I find it unlikely that I would feel comfortable allowing the dealership to swap my heads onto a shortblock. I would be pushing for a longblock swap. I would want a motor assembled entirely at the factory.

sonic370 · 08-22-2010, 07:33 AM

Car has a total of 2451 miles. and burns 2 quarts within 879 miles of a burn check.

something stinks here and its not burnt oil.

Mike · 08-22-2010, 10:19 AM

let them put the heads on, but make them extend the warranty out to 100000 miles.

persian54 · 08-24-2010, 01:53 AM

Well, a problem is a problem... but.. if the car burns too much oil, and it ends up being a real/major problem... it's at no cost to the owner correct?

I'm assuming Nissan warranty will cover it 100%? Especially if the car is stock?

I ask because my 335i has had multiple fuel pump failures... but they've cost me nothing except trips to the dealer (which is expensive in itself, since time is money; but it hasn't cost me any cash to get them fixed)

BGTV8 · 08-24-2010, 03:19 AM

I have been involved in motorsport for 43 years, and the WarmandSCSI description of breakin procedure is what I use for road and competition engines. You need sufficient combustion pressure behind the rings to get them to knock the highpoints (it is a relative term - measured in 10th of 1000th of an inch) off the bore so the rings seal properly and stop sucking oil into the combustion chamber and burning it.

The trick is not to let the engine "labour" under mid-range revs and high load and also not to let it idle or run at constant load for very long.

Whenever I pick up a new vehicle, it always gets a 200+ klick run and I like to pick a road that has a few hills and lets me use the gearbox - it is about keeping the revs up (3000 +), keeping the load up, but never WOT. My Z34 never used a drop of oil from day one - purchased in May 2009 and has covered 28,000klics so far, and run maybe a 800-1000 track klicks - still does not use oil. The Subaru Impreza STI I had before the Zed covered 180,000 klicks in 7 years (and maybe 35-40 track days) and it never used oil. The Impreza WRX I had before that was the same. The GM Small block engined car I had before that was the same .....

My competition engines are all broken in on an engine dyno, 15-20 minutes at 2000rpm to bed the cam and followers, stop the engine and let it cool overnight, re-torque the heads and then 20 minutes of 60-90% load at 60-75% rpm's (all varied, never constant load), to make sure the rings are thorougly bedded, then finish off with a couple of balls-out power pulls. If we don't like the results, we might then play with fuel and timings to get max torque, then it goes into the race car.

AK370Z · 08-24-2010, 03:54 AM

Please keep the thread ON TOPIC. This thread has been cleaned this time but next time it'll be locked.

OP, I'm sorry to hear this. Keep us posted what the Nissan dealer decides to do. As Mike said, let them change whatever they feel necessary but try to get them to extend the warranty till 100,000 miles. You'll have peace of mind for a long time. Keep us posted

knickick · 10-02-2010, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am

Well I failed my oil consumption test. At 872 miles I was down 1.9 quarts and Nissan called the test before I went the full 1500 miles.
The solution: a rebuilt engines using my old heads. Total milage is 2451. Am I made whole this way or am I being screwed?
Thank you for any advice.

I think you missed something. What are the all parts did you used? Before I can give my advice I want to know all of them. I will wait for your further response.

alelogman · 11-03-2010, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by persian54

Well, a problem is a problem... but.. if the used engines for sale burns too much oil, and it ends up being a real/major problem... it's at no cost to the owner correct?

... (which is expensive in itself, since time is money; but it hasn't cost me any cash to get them fixed)

I agree with you on some points but I don't understanding how it doesn't cost you anything? The guy who did the pumps for me did charge me, I think I should as him to refund.

370Zsteve · 11-04-2010, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Yes, thank you, some common sense finally!

It's not so much the rings, it's gaining a plateau finish on the cylinder wall oil retention "valleys." Every block that rolls off Nissan's assembly line is pre-honed and plateau honed to an extent, but there is still some potential to leave the oil cross hatches too shallow or glazed over due to improper break in.

I'm going to leave it at my experience of 4 years of building several V6 engines for boosted applications... The problem is not with people refusing to break in their engine too hard, it's with people who are too easy or otherwise follow a bad engine break-in procedure. For the first 50 miles once your engine reaches operating temperature, it is critical to A) NOT idle the engine at all if possible, shut it off if you get stuck at a light B) load the cylinder walls so force is exerted from the rings (have some fun, but don't beat on the engine or let your oil and/or coolant get too hot) and C) engine brake every chance you get to accomplish B) even when you are decelerating and D) do NOT cruise at a constant speed at all if possible - take the hilliest route you can if applicable so you can vary the load on your engine. Continue this procedure for the first several hundred miles, but the no idling rule becomes less important after the first 50-100 miles or X number of revolutions.

That's all I have to say; I can promise you that you will not have an oil consumption problem again if you do the above.

At first I was gonna go "oh here we go again, somebody claiming you can beat the snot out of it from day one". But your post is spot-on. It's all about varying the RPM as much as possible and not driving at constant speeds. And the owner's manual says exactly that! (Of course almost nobody reads the manual anyway

)

Funny...I broke the engine in properly and only once or twice brought it over 6000 during break-in and whaddya know, it doesn't burn any oil.

08-21-2010, 08:55 PM	#19 (permalink)
Mt Tam I am A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: California Posts: 10,709 Drives: 370Z T/S/N 6MT & XKE Rep Power: 3843	Thank you all for the advice. I like the entire crate engine idea best, even though Nissan wants to try a short block solution instead. But they have not internally inspected the parts. Hence, my gut tells me replacing the entire engine makes more sense. You guys seem to be suggesting that as well. Can somebody please coach me on how to convince the service manager to replace the entire engine. I sense they are reluctant to do this. Advice? __________________ "Does the carpet match the drapes? NO!!! I don't date bald women." Nissan Motorsports 34R Oil Cooler. Stillen CBE. Hotchkis Sport Sway Bars. KW Variant 3 Coilover System. Stillen Gen3 CAI. Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Stillen Brake Ducts. Carbotech™ XP10/XP8 Pads. Z1 Front Rotors. Z1 Stainless Brake Lines. Two degrees of camber

08-21-2010, 08:57 PM	#20 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	when nissan replaced my engine in my 350z for the exact same problem, they replaced the entire long block. but that was 6 years ago. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

08-21-2010, 10:09 PM	#21 (permalink)
BeachZTT Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 746 Drives: '10 BC ZR T/S/Nav Rep Power: 17	Back to the OP... I find it unlikely that I would feel comfortable allowing the dealership to swap my heads onto a shortblock. I would be pushing for a longblock swap. I would want a motor assembled entirely at the factory. __________________ '10 ZR Black Cherry Sport/Touring/Nav, Swift Springs, Stillen G3s, 15mm-F 20mm-R Spacers, SPC, Spoiler Solutions Rear Wing, Stubby Antenna

08-22-2010, 10:19 AM	#23 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	let them put the heads on, but make them extend the warranty out to 100000 miles. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

08-24-2010, 03:19 AM	#25 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,515 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39974	I have been involved in motorsport for 43 years, and the WarmandSCSI description of breakin procedure is what I use for road and competition engines. You need sufficient combustion pressure behind the rings to get them to knock the highpoints (it is a relative term - measured in 10th of 1000th of an inch) off the bore so the rings seal properly and stop sucking oil into the combustion chamber and burning it. The trick is not to let the engine "labour" under mid-range revs and high load and also not to let it idle or run at constant load for very long. Whenever I pick up a new vehicle, it always gets a 200+ klick run and I like to pick a road that has a few hills and lets me use the gearbox - it is about keeping the revs up (3000 +), keeping the load up, but never WOT. My Z34 never used a drop of oil from day one - purchased in May 2009 and has covered 28,000klics so far, and run maybe a 800-1000 track klicks - still does not use oil. The Subaru Impreza STI I had before the Zed covered 180,000 klicks in 7 years (and maybe 35-40 track days) and it never used oil. The Impreza WRX I had before that was the same. The GM Small block engined car I had before that was the same ..... My competition engines are all broken in on an engine dyno, 15-20 minutes at 2000rpm to bed the cam and followers, stop the engine and let it cool overnight, re-torque the heads and then 20 minutes of 60-90% load at 60-75% rpm's (all varied, never constant load), to make sure the rings are thorougly bedded, then finish off with a couple of balls-out power pulls. If we don't like the results, we might then play with fuel and timings to get max torque, then it goes into the race car. Last edited by AK370Z; 08-24-2010 at 03:48 AM. Reason: referred post deleted

08-21-2010, 05:28 PM	#16 (permalink)
cab83_750 Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Posts: 887 Drives: 09 NISSAN 370Z Rep Power: 418	I failed the test and the Thousand Oaks dealer got'eme a new engine.

08-21-2010, 07:46 PM	#17 (permalink)
Crazy8 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 255 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 16	I broke my engine in fairly hard from the day I got it. I haven't had any problems yet. Knock on wood.

08-21-2010, 07:50 PM	#18 (permalink)
sonic370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Orange Texas Posts: 1,574 Drives: 09 370Z Sports PGK Rep Power: 19	I'm know nothing about building engines and won't claim to. I bought my 09 with 25 miles on it and drive it normal it's never been redlined or past a 110. It's now at 6700 miles had two mobil 1 oil changes and has never had oil added in between changes. I feel for the guys with this problem it's gotta suck. But IMHO these engines shouldn't burn oil under "normal conditions" Now under adverse conditions like tracking and dogging the crap at of it i can't say.

08-22-2010, 07:33 AM	#22 (permalink)
sonic370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Orange Texas Posts: 1,574 Drives: 09 370Z Sports PGK Rep Power: 19	Car has a total of 2451 miles. and burns 2 quarts within 879 miles of a burn check. something stinks here and its not burnt oil.

08-24-2010, 01:53 AM	#24 (permalink)
persian54 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Woodland Hills Posts: 41 Drives: BMW e93 335i Rep Power: 15	Well, a problem is a problem... but.. if the car burns too much oil, and it ends up being a real/major problem... it's at no cost to the owner correct? I'm assuming Nissan warranty will cover it 100%? Especially if the car is stock? I ask because my 335i has had multiple fuel pump failures... but they've cost me nothing except trips to the dealer (which is expensive in itself, since time is money; but it hasn't cost me any cash to get them fixed)

08-24-2010, 03:54 AM	#26 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	Please keep the thread ON TOPIC. This thread has been cleaned this time but next time it'll be locked. OP, I'm sorry to hear this. Keep us posted what the Nissan dealer decides to do. As Mike said, let them change whatever they feel necessary but try to get them to extend the warranty till 100,000 miles. You'll have peace of mind for a long time. Keep us posted __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

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