I failed the test and the Thousand Oaks dealer got'eme a new engine.

I broke my engine in fairly hard from the day I got it. I haven't had any problems yet. Knock on wood.

I'm know nothing about building engines and won't claim to.
I bought my 09 with 25 miles on it and drive it normal it's never
been redlined or past a 110. It's now at 6700 miles had two mobil 1
oil changes and has never had oil added in between changes.

I feel for the guys with this problem it's gotta suck.
But IMHO these engines shouldn't burn oil under "normal conditions"

Now under adverse conditions like tracking and dogging the crap at of it
i can't say.

Thank you all for the advice. I like the entire crate engine idea best, even though Nissan wants to try a short block solution instead. But they have not internally inspected the parts. Hence, my gut tells me replacing the entire engine makes more sense. You guys seem to be suggesting that as well. Can somebody please coach me on how to convince the service manager to replace the entire engine. I sense they are reluctant to do this. Advice?

when nissan replaced my engine in my 350z for the exact same problem, they replaced the entire long block. but that was 6 years ago.

Back to the OP... I find it unlikely that I would feel comfortable allowing the dealership to swap my heads onto a shortblock. I would be pushing for a longblock swap. I would want a motor assembled entirely at the factory.

Car has a total of 2451 miles. and burns 2 quarts within 879 miles of a burn check.

something stinks here and its not burnt oil.

let them put the heads on, but make them extend the warranty out to 100000 miles.

Well, a problem is a problem... but.. if the car burns too much oil, and it ends up being a real/major problem... it's at no cost to the owner correct?

I'm assuming Nissan warranty will cover it 100%? Especially if the car is stock?

I ask because my 335i has had multiple fuel pump failures... but they've cost me nothing except trips to the dealer (which is expensive in itself, since time is money; but it hasn't cost me any cash to get them fixed)

I have been involved in motorsport for 43 years, and the WarmandSCSI description of breakin procedure is what I use for road and competition engines. You need sufficient combustion pressure behind the rings to get them to knock the highpoints (it is a relative term - measured in 10th of 1000th of an inch) off the bore so the rings seal properly and stop sucking oil into the combustion chamber and burning it.

The trick is not to let the engine "labour" under mid-range revs and high load and also not to let it idle or run at constant load for very long.

Whenever I pick up a new vehicle, it always gets a 200+ klick run and I like to pick a road that has a few hills and lets me use the gearbox - it is about keeping the revs up (3000 +), keeping the load up, but never WOT. My Z34 never used a drop of oil from day one - purchased in May 2009 and has covered 28,000klics so far, and run maybe a 800-1000 track klicks - still does not use oil. The Subaru Impreza STI I had before the Zed covered 180,000 klicks in 7 years (and maybe 35-40 track days) and it never used oil. The Impreza WRX I had before that was the same. The GM Small block engined car I had before that was the same .....

My competition engines are all broken in on an engine dyno, 15-20 minutes at 2000rpm to bed the cam and followers, stop the engine and let it cool overnight, re-torque the heads and then 20 minutes of 60-90% load at 60-75% rpm's (all varied, never constant load), to make sure the rings are thorougly bedded, then finish off with a couple of balls-out power pulls. If we don't like the results, we might then play with fuel and timings to get max torque, then it goes into the race car.

Please keep the thread ON TOPIC. This thread has been cleaned this time but next time it'll be locked.

OP, I'm sorry to hear this. Keep us posted what the Nissan dealer decides to do. As Mike said, let them change whatever they feel necessary but try to get them to extend the warranty till 100,000 miles. You'll have peace of mind for a long time. Keep us posted :tiphat:

I think you missed something. What are the all parts did you used? Before I can give my advice I want to know all of them. I will wait for your further response. :D

I agree with you on some points but I don't understanding how it doesn't cost you anything? The guy who did the pumps for me did charge me, I think I should as him to refund.

At first I was gonna go "oh here we go again, somebody claiming you can beat the snot out of it from day one". But your post is spot-on. It's all about varying the RPM as much as possible and not driving at constant speeds. And the owner's manual says exactly that! (Of course almost nobody reads the manual anyway :shakes head:)

Funny...I broke the engine in properly and only once or twice brought it over 6000 during break-in and whaddya know, it doesn't burn any oil.