z1 oil cooler installation w/ pics

flashburn · 08-18-2010, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joseph B

Props to Z1 for responding, and nice write up buddy!

Yep,

to Z1. They definitely seem to care about their customers.

Trips · 08-18-2010, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashburn

Yep,

to Z1. They definitely seem to care about their customers.

Pharmacist · 08-18-2010, 02:27 PM

i didn't measure the length of the hoses, but the longer hose must have had more than 8 inches over the shorter one. If you look at my first pic above, the difference seems more like 15 inches or so. You can also see in my pics how the longer hose is dangling behind the power steering cooler due to the extra slack in it. Not a big deal but something to reconsider in future revisions of the kit. Also why did the shorter hose have a 135 degree bent fitting on one of its terminals as opposed to 90 degrees like the others? It doesn't seem to have a purpose as far as i can tell, and it does cause clearance issues if someone tried to connect it to the sandwich plate.

The instruction manual had a few omissions. For example, it didn't mention the need to remove the engine undertray, or the need to remove the side and lower bolts that hold the bumper cover. Most importantly had no mention at all of the small upper bracket for the core. Instead it mentions a different upper bracket that is large and identical to the lower bracket. I guess this was how the kit was set up before and was later updated to include the smaller bracket. Also, the manual kind of glossed over the routing of the hoses front to back and into the mocal plate, even though in my opinion that is the trickiest and most time consuming step due to the tight clearance. In addition, some pics of the routing of the hoses, and the fitting to the sandwich plate would have been helpful.

XwChriswX · 08-18-2010, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pharmacist

Final thoughts:

The cooler seems to be working good. I drove on the street for half an hour very hard and aggressive on the engine, staying in low gear, full throttle pulls, redlining it, and the temp did not get higher than 100 degrees C. i would say that the cooler kit gave at least 10 to 20 degrees drop in temp on the street. i look forward to trying it on the track and see if it can prevent the dreaded limp mode.

First thought, excellent write up! I look forward to getting mine installed soon as well.

My only point of question for your OP is the fact your talking in degrees Centigrade when our (US) gauges read in degrees Fahrenheit. I know its surely easy to go to a conversion website to do the math, but I know some people would rather jump to flaming you for posting in *C rather than looking it up themselves...

No hate, just a thought. Other then that, excellent job! Repped.

(And for those who haven't done the math - 100*C = 212*F)

Sibze · 08-18-2010, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

First thought, excellent write up! I look forward to getting mine installed soon as well.

My only point of question for your OP is the fact your talking in degrees Centigrade when our (US) gauges read in degrees Fahrenheit. I know its surely easy to go to a conversion website to do the math, but I know some people would rather jump to flaming you for posting in *C rather than looking it up themselves...

No hate, just a thought. Other then that, excellent job! Repped.

(And for those who haven't done the math - 100*C = 212*F)

F you and your Fahrenheit

Thanks for the write up! I will be getting one of these some day! Don't think I will do it myself though!!!

XwChriswX · 08-18-2010, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sibze

F you and your Incredibly Intelligent Logic

See... this is the kind of flamer I was referring to...

nogoodname · 08-18-2010, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

First thought, excellent write up! I look forward to getting mine installed soon as well.

My only point of question for your OP is the fact your talking in degrees Centigrade when our (US) gauges read in degrees Fahrenheit. I know its surely easy to go to a conversion website to do the math, but I know some people would rather jump to flaming you for posting in *C rather than looking it up themselves...

No hate, just a thought. Other then that, excellent job! Repped.

(And for those who haven't done the math - 100*C = 212*F)

It's not hard to use google....lol... F the people who want to flame a temperature unit of measurement.

great write up but wrong section though.

Pharmacist · 08-18-2010, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

First thought, excellent write up! I look forward to getting mine installed soon as well.

My only point of question for your OP is the fact your talking in degrees Centigrade when our (US) gauges read in degrees Fahrenheit. I know its surely easy to go to a conversion website to do the math, but I know some people would rather jump to flaming you for posting in *C rather than looking it up themselves...

No hate, just a thought. Other then that, excellent job! Repped.

(And for those who haven't done the math - 100*C = 212*F)

man, check my location! the entire world (that is, everyone else not including americans) use centigrade scale. and yes, my gauge is labelled in degrees centigrade. and even more shocking, my speedo is labelled in kilometres per hour!

wishihadnav · 08-18-2010, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pharmacist

man, check my location! the entire world (that is, everyone else not including americans) use centigrade scale. and yes, my gauge is labelled in degrees centigrade. and even more shocking, my speedo is labelled in kilometres per hour!

Americans are the best!

Sibze · 08-18-2010, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pharmacist

man, check my location! the entire world (that is, everyone else not including americans) use centigrade scale. and yes, my gauge is labelled in degrees centigrade. and even more shocking, my speedo is labelled in kilometres per hour!

Trips · 08-18-2010, 03:37 PM

Chris, Take the kid back to the car, and leave him in there with the windows rolled up.

XwChriswX · 08-18-2010, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nogoodname

great write up but wrong section though.

I just left that part alone, figured since it was a good write up I wouldn't say anything and let a mod silently take care of that lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple's

Chris, Take the kid back to the car, and leave him in there with the windows rolled up.

And I'm not letting him out till he tells me what temp it is outside in FAHRENHEIT!!!

Zat_Zuma · 08-18-2010, 04:03 PM

Ok break time

Give credit where credit is due. Dustin from Z1 called me personally and we discussed my install and the difficulties I experienced with the install and manual.

. Changes are a coming from a company that wants the very best for it's customers.

A couple quick observations:

-8 AN lines would be easier to work with
- clearer instructions would have helped.
- 25 row cooler only takes 1/2 litre of oil to fill it
- wrapping stainless lines are a pain ..... it would be nice if they were prewrapped or better yet ..... don't use stainless lines

The pictures!

Where I routed the lines and the plastic I trimmed to allow more room.

Where it tucks under the impact bar

Tucks in under the fender and frame

The pictures don't show it very well but the hose ends are mounted between the 11 and 12 O clock position between the motor mount and alternator. Plenty of clearance in relation to the swaybar.

I've since wrapped the lines and tucked them up along the fender to provide clearance of the wheel liner.

flashburn · 08-18-2010, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zat_Zuma

I've since wrapped the lines and tucked them up along the fender to provide clearance of the wheel liner.

What did you use to wrap the lines? Did you wrap them together or separately?

flashburn · 08-18-2010, 04:10 PM

There is a lot of good information in this thread. I'm wondering if either you or the OP could put together a DIY on this setup? I think picture wise you guys probably have it all covered, but more of a step by step approach would be awesome. It might also help Z1 write up some better instructions.

08-18-2010, 02:27 PM	#3 (permalink)
Pharmacist A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Toronto, Ontario Posts: 1,249 Drives: 09 370z Sport 6MT Rep Power: 19	i didn't measure the length of the hoses, but the longer hose must have had more than 8 inches over the shorter one. If you look at my first pic above, the difference seems more like 15 inches or so. You can also see in my pics how the longer hose is dangling behind the power steering cooler due to the extra slack in it. Not a big deal but something to reconsider in future revisions of the kit. Also why did the shorter hose have a 135 degree bent fitting on one of its terminals as opposed to 90 degrees like the others? It doesn't seem to have a purpose as far as i can tell, and it does cause clearance issues if someone tried to connect it to the sandwich plate. The instruction manual had a few omissions. For example, it didn't mention the need to remove the engine undertray, or the need to remove the side and lower bolts that hold the bumper cover. Most importantly had no mention at all of the small upper bracket for the core. Instead it mentions a different upper bracket that is large and identical to the lower bracket. I guess this was how the kit was set up before and was later updated to include the smaller bracket. Also, the manual kind of glossed over the routing of the hoses front to back and into the mocal plate, even though in my opinion that is the trickiest and most time consuming step due to the tight clearance. In addition, some pics of the routing of the hoses, and the fitting to the sandwich plate would have been helpful. __________________ 2009 370z Sport Touring/Nismo shift Knob/Z1 motorsports 34 row oil cooler

08-18-2010, 03:37 PM	#11 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,732 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Chris, Take the kid back to the car, and leave him in there with the windows rolled up. __________________

08-18-2010, 04:03 PM	#13 (permalink)
Zat_Zuma A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta ...eh Posts: 1,171 Drives: 2017 Touring auto Rep Power: 19	Ok break time Give credit where credit is due. Dustin from Z1 called me personally and we discussed my install and the difficulties I experienced with the install and manual. . Changes are a coming from a company that wants the very best for it's customers. A couple quick observations: -8 AN lines would be easier to work with - clearer instructions would have helped. - 25 row cooler only takes 1/2 litre of oil to fill it - wrapping stainless lines are a pain ..... it would be nice if they were prewrapped or better yet ..... don't use stainless lines The pictures! Where I routed the lines and the plastic I trimmed to allow more room. Where it tucks under the impact bar Tucks in under the fender and frame The pictures don't show it very well but the hose ends are mounted between the 11 and 12 O clock position between the motor mount and alternator. Plenty of clearance in relation to the swaybar. I've since wrapped the lines and tucked them up along the fender to provide clearance of the wheel liner. __________________ [B]2009 & 2017 370Z Touring Sport Autos SOLD

08-18-2010, 04:10 PM	#15 (permalink)
flashburn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,884 Drives: '12 Corvette GS 6M Rep Power: 20	There is a lot of good information in this thread. I'm wondering if either you or the OP could put together a DIY on this setup? I think picture wise you guys probably have it all covered, but more of a step by step approach would be awesome. It might also help Z1 write up some better instructions. __________________ Current Ride: 2012 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport Centennial Edition Carbon Flash 6M Previous Ride: 2009 Nissan 370Z Sport Platinum Graphite 7AT

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