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F you and your Fahrenheit :tup: Thanks for the write up! I will be getting one of these some day! Don't think I will do it myself though!!! |
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See... this is the kind of flamer I was referring to... :shakes head: :tup: :bowrofl: |
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:shakes head: It's not hard to use google....lol... F the people who want to flame a temperature unit of measurement. great write up but wrong section though. |
Chris, Take the kid back to the car, and leave him in there with the windows rolled up.
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Ok break time :hello:
Give credit where credit is due. Dustin from Z1 called me personally and we discussed my install and the difficulties I experienced with the install and manual. :tup:. Changes are a coming from a company that wants the very best for it's customers. A couple quick observations: -8 AN lines would be easier to work with - clearer instructions would have helped. - 25 row cooler only takes 1/2 litre of oil to fill it - wrapping stainless lines are a pain ..... it would be nice if they were prewrapped or better yet ..... don't use stainless lines The pictures! http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...1-img-0212.jpg Where I routed the lines and the plastic I trimmed to allow more room. http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...2-img-0213.jpg Where it tucks under the impact bar http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...3-img-0214.jpg Tucks in under the fender and frame http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...4-img-0215.jpg The pictures don't show it very well but the hose ends are mounted between the 11 and 12 O clock position between the motor mount and alternator. Plenty of clearance in relation to the swaybar. http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...5-img-0216.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...6-img-0217.jpg I've since wrapped the lines and tucked them up along the fender to provide clearance of the wheel liner. |
There is a lot of good information in this thread. I'm wondering if either you or the OP could put together a DIY on this setup? I think picture wise you guys probably have it all covered, but more of a step by step approach would be awesome. It might also help Z1 write up some better instructions.
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man, check my location! the entire world (that is, everyone else not including americans) use centigrade scale. and yes, my gauge is labelled in degrees centigrade. and even more shocking, my speedo is labelled in kilometres per hour! |
yeah 8AN line would probably be better and include some of this as well..
JEGS 32011 JEGS Thermal Heat Sleeving |
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zatzuma, i see you took off the fender liner. no doubt that gave more room to route the lines. i just left the fender liner in place, so i pretty much had to route my lines under the washer bottle. the way you routed the lines probably also helped to connect them to the sandwich plate from the top side. in my case if i wanted to do the same i would have had to twist and contort the lines too much due to their lower position. by the way, what was the difference in length between the two lines in your kit? they seem to have the same amount of slack. in my case the longer line had much more slack than the shorter line.
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You can always just cut the lines to the best size for your install. You can reuse those AN fittings with no problems. Thanks for sharing the install with us. I could use one of those kits, it is hotter then hell in Vegas.
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First off, thanks very much to the OP and also Zat Zuma for posting pics and explanation of this install.
I too am planning on installing a 34row oil cooler at my next oil change (5K miles) and I was/am planning on using the Z1 kit. Quote:
Oh, and +1 to whoever said that any and all wrapping for the lines should come with the kit standard, or at least as an option like the thermostatic plate is an option. It'd be great to just buy everything at once and know it was gtg from the get go. :tup: |
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