Using 5W-40 on Z's with no oil cooler

brainrain

They can't even solve my problem with my keyfobs ...
and they did not see much nissan 350Z/370Z

I don't know how people drive in north america (smoother driving or aggressive driving) but in France many Z owners drive only on weekends (with aggressive driving ).

I would use Mobil 1 5w30 Esp Formula because he have a high HTHS rating.

FL 4Motion

Why not just add an oil cooler, run factory rec 5w30 and not have to worry about excessive heat issues? Wife and I only ran M1 0w40 bc it was more track car than daily driver.

If you’re not tracking, then a 19 row oil cooler will be just fine, or even a 25 row. 34 row is only necessary if you’re gonna go to the track, or if you live in ME.

Zyonara91

Exactly. I run a 19 Row out here in Toronto, it handles traffic, spirited driving coupled with hot weather just fine. I do not track hence the choice.

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2FT3PDLZ

ZoomZ

Going to W40 will not solve heat issue. Need oil cooler. W40 will just remain more viscous over 30 for a bit longer until it gets too hot and breaks down as well.

I know it can get hot in the South of France, but looking at historical data, July and Aug 2020 never went past 30c.

5W30 should take you way past 40c for a DD and spirited weekends, Specially if its a quality "true" synthetic oil. I'm sure Motul and Liqui-moly are available in France.

brainrain

I will install an oil cooler in few month

I thought the 5w40 oil was an alternative to an oil cooler

In France, we have these oils (with hths >=3.5 mPa.s) :
- mobil 5w30 esp formula
- Motul 5w30 specific 17
- Liqui moly 5w30 (I don't know the best reference for 370z)

It has changed, it often takes 40 degrees

For information, we did not have the same speed limits, and I do not hesitate to drive at 160-170 km/h (105mph) for several hours.

ZoomZ

Driving at a constant 160-170kph is actually beneficial. Should be good oil circulation and airflow. It's the stop and go or hill climbs and track style that will affect your temp. and oil.

From the 3 choices I'd go with Liqui-moly.

That Particular Motul is for Renault and the Mobil ESP is not a favorite but is ok.

SouthArk370Z

Sheesh! Just use a high-quality oil with Nissan's specs for viz. Once you get up to operating temp, the difference in viz is negligible - the higher the temp the less the difference. The ECM will go into limp mode before things get hot enough to damage the oil.

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Rusty

I will take Abiogenic petroleum any day of the week.

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Jhill

If I could remember where I saw the testing I’d post it but they found the thick oil actually increased engine temps which makes a lot of sense as the pump has to work harder more pressure through the system. In the end their analysis was use the oil viscosity your engine was speced for. Personally I’ve used amsoil for years and it’s never let me down.

Zyonara91

If you want to learn about oil in depth, go to bob is the oil guy. You can spend hours there looking at UOAs and VOAs of all the brand of oils and their viscosity. Talking about oil is mental masturbation and people will say this is the best and that is the best.

Here is the conclusion I have come to after spending hours on BITOG:

1) Not all oils are the same. A 5w30 synthetic oil vs a 5w30 syn oil with a Merc 229.5 and Porsche A40 approval are different. The latter will contain a higher HTHS rating, TBN and possibly more Zinc, Boron etc.

2) Some oils have a better BASE oil compared to other oils with the same viscosity, PAO, esters, hydrocracked etc. You have to read the data sheets to get a better idea and not all of the information is disclosed.

3) There are different groups of oils, I, II, III, IV and V. Some are blended together to get a good base stock. It is not unusual to blend group II and III together or group III with group IV, etc etc. It's chemistry simple as that. Better base oils usually contain PAO and Esters which give strong shear stability among other things

4) The BEST OIL is the oil you change on a REGULAR INTERVAL. Look for the approvals in your manual and change your oil AT LEAST once a year or every 8,000km or whatever comes first. I know some bottles say *up to* but that's if you have the ideal driving conditions, which many folk do not.

Anything you buy off the shelf that's "synthetic" (M1, Castrol, PP/Shell/QS) is good stuff and will give your car a happy life for everyday driving. There is a reasons why I placed synthetic in quotations, look at Castrol VS M1.

IF money is NO object to you and you could care less about what anyone says on a forum and you keep your oil changes to 8,000 km or less since you're against extended drain intervals. Go with Redline. I use their gears oils and they are fantastic, their oil is pricey but, it has Group IV and V (esters) and have great HTHS ratings and TBN. I've seen plenty of VOAs and UOAs and Redline always comes out stellar. However, I've seen M1 0W40 and Castrol 0w40, M1 ESP and PP Euro L UOAs and they come out stellar to, comparable to Redline for HALF the price if not more. . .

There is also the issue of LSPI, when to much calcium is introduced as a detergent, usually that's offset by Zinc and I think boron as well. Just put your nose to the books my friend and you will come to your own conclusion. Best of luck and enjoy the forums.

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2FT3PDLZ

ZoomZ

You read my mind.

FL 4Motion

With an appropriate oil cooler, aka 19 row, for your (OP’s) use case, the type of oil is almost irrelevant as long as it’s the manufacturer spec, ie 5w30 in this case and it meets manufacturer specific requirements (ex. Audi/VW spec, or Porsche spec etc).

For “normal” use, which is what op is doing, regular oil changes every 5k miles or 6 months and I can almost guarantee the engine will go at least 200k miles with regular maintenance.

This isn’t some exotic high strung power plant or a turbo engine, it’s a vq.

Don’t sweat it.

Rusty

Some people really overthink some things.

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